What Is Autolyse?

The term “autolyse” originates from the Greek roots:

• “auto-“ meaning “self.”
• “-lyse” derived from “lysis”, meaning “to break down” or “to dissolve.”

Literally, the word “autolyse” means something like “self-breakdown.” It describes how starches and proteins in the dough naturally break down on their own during a rest period, without anyone doing anything to it.

In bread-making, to “autolyse” means to mix flour and water together (just flour and water – nothing else) and let it rest for a period of time before adding other ingredients, such as sourdough starter and salt. Bakers have varying opinions on the best length of time to autolyse, some autolysing for just twenty minutes, others a few hours, and still others overnight.

The technique was developed by French baker, professor, and biochemist Raymond Calvel to address the decline in bread quality caused by industrial baking methods. He noticed that fast, aggressive kneading using stand mixers produced bread with poor flavor, texture, and lighter color. To restore traditional French bread’s qualities, Calvel researched dough development and discovered that letting flour and water rest before adding yeast and salt significantly improved dough quality. Calvel introduced the autolyse method in his 1990 book, Le Goût du Pain (The Taste of Bread), which quickly gained popularity among artisan bakers and became a cornerstone in crafting traditional French breads and artisanal loaves. Today, it is widely used in both professional and home baking for its simplicity and ability to improve bread quality.

During autolyse, a few important processes occur: 

1. The flour is fully hydrated. During the rest period, the flour will absorb all of the water (well, depending on how long you autolyse for) that has been added to it. Not only does this make the dough easier to handle (it is far less sticky), it also activates enzymes present in the flour that begin developing gluten naturally.
   • NOTE: Applying this technique to whole grain breads can be very helpful. Whole grains tend to absorb a lot of water, but they struggle to take it in all at once. Autolysing allows an initial portion of water to be absorbed, which hydrates the grains, making them easier to work with. Then, more water can be added to achieve the desired consistency (this is called “bassinage”), which not only helps develop gluten, but also keeps the dough from becoming extremely stiff later in the process.
2. Gluten development is initiated. Just by mixing flour and water, gluten will come together on its own – without you having to do any work. In fact, your dough will go through the whole process of developing gluten and then breaking it down completely (if it’s left for too long) without you having to do anything at all. Without autolyse, baker’s have to knead by hand or by mixer to develop the gluten, which is vital to building dough strength and trapping air. Depending on how long the autolyse is, kneading can be reduced, significantly reduced, or even completely eliminated.
   • NOTE: Many home sourdough bakers do not knead their dough anyway. They mix, and then follow with folds to develop gluten and dough strength. This works for a slow fermentation because the time it takes for gluten to form naturally in relation to the amount of air produced during that time is minimal. However, when using commercial yeast, where up-front kneading is essential (due to the quick fermentation), the transformative powers of autolyse can be incredibly helpful to prevent over-working and over-oxidizing the dough.
3. Enzymes are activated. During autolyse, two enzymes (protease and amylase) begin working. Protease begins breaking down proteins, which makes the dough more extensible (stretchy). This extensibility is necessary to helping the dough expand (imagine having to blow up a rubber tire!). Meanwhile, amylase begins converting starch to sugar, which helps kickstart the fermentation process; as yeast feed on sugars, they release CO2, which is responsible for “blowing up” our bread dough.
   • NOTE: The enzymatic activity that occurs during autolyse is only good to an extent. Eventually, the enzymes will completely break down the flour and begin the process of creating a sourdough starter. The amount of enzymatic activity that occurs during this time depends on the flour (how fresh it is and how many whole grains it contains) as well as the temperature of the water added and the temperature of the room it is allowed to rest in. Warmer temperatures speed up enzymatic activity, while cooler temperatures slow it down.

A Summary Of The Science Of Autolyse

During the autolyse period, the flour absorbs water, which helps it fully hydrate. The proteins in the flour, called glutenin and gliadin, and the starches soak up the water. As the dough rests, glutenin and gliadin start to come together and form gluten on their own. This means we don’t need to knead the dough a lot. 

The gluten network is very important because it traps gas that yeast produces during fermentation. This gas helps the bread rise and gives it a nice texture.

At the same time, two important enzymes, amylase and protease, are activated. Amylase breaks down the starches in the flour into simpler sugars. These sugars are crucial because they feed the yeast while it works, leading to better fermentation and more flavor in the bread. Protease breaks down the proteins in the flour into smaller pieces called peptides and amino acids. This helps soften the dough and makes it easier to stretch, which is important for developing gluten.

A strong gluten network formed during the autolyse period is better at holding the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. This can help the bread rise higher and have a better crumb structure.

Thanks to the activity of the enzymes and the efficiency of fermentation that happen during autolyse, the flavor and aroma of the bread improve. The enzymes, amylase and protease, help create flavor precursors. These precursors are then used by the yeast during fermentation to enhance the bread’s taste and smell.

Potential Benefits And Drawbacks Of Autolyse

Potential Benefits Of Autolyse

• Gluten develops naturally, which means you don’t have to knead the dough as much. The autolyse method promotes the natural development of gluten without extensive kneading. It, therefore, reduces, significantly reduces, or eliminates the need for kneading altogether, depending on the specific technique used. This is especially important when commercial yeast are used, as the dough ferments much faster than a dough made with wild yeast (sourdough). Autolyse can save time and reduce the risk of over-working or over-oxidizing the dough, both of which can lead to a denser crumb.
• The dough is able to ferment better. Improved gluten means improved ability to retain air from fermentation right from the start, and can mean a stronger dough, depending on the length of the autolyse. The activation of enzymes, namely amylase and protease, break down starches into sugars (helping the bread rise and taste sweet) and proteins into peptides (helping the dough become stronger and giving the bread a better texture), which also result in a better fermentation.

Potential Drawbacks Of Autolyse

Preparation Differences

Autolyse seemingly adds an extra step to the process, which may create a scheduling complexity for some with tight or busy schedules. However, the fact of the matter is, that the process just looks different. The trade-off to autolyse is minimal mixing. The way I see it, you are either mixing your dough for fifteen to twenty minutes to develop the gluten or you are mixing the flour and water, waiting a bit, then adding the rest of the ingredients until just incorporated (two to three minutes). While incorporating the ingredients after flour and water have coagulated can be more difficult, developing gluten by hand can be more difficult as well, just in a different way.

A common practice among self-taught sourdough bakers nowadays is to mix all the ingredients up-front until a shaggy dough forms (no kneading), let it rest, then develop gluten through folds. This is a completely different, and potentially uninformed, mindset around gluten. In fact, I know it very well because (as you can see from the artisanal bread recipes on my blog) I used to use this method. (Don’t worry, the recipes will be updated as soon as I can get to them.) While this method does work, it isn’t the best if you are looking for the highest quality of bread, and it especially is not the best if you’re seeking open crumb. If you want the most aerated loaf possible – a bread that is extremely light, fluffy, airy – then you must trap air. With autolyse, you can gain a gluten network that has the potential to trap air from the start without any work. The only other way to do this is to knead your dough to a windowpane during mixing (which has its own pros and cons). All this to say that, yes, you can skip the autolyse and the extended mixing, but without either of these things you’re lacking necessary gluten that will help the dough trap air and give you a quality fermentation.

Inconsistent Results With Different Flours

Different flours mean different levels enzymatic activity. Enzymatic activity is simply how quickly enzymes in your flour work (remember the amylase and protease mentioned before?). Some flours, particularly fresh flours or whole grain flours, have increased levels of enzymatic activity, meaning they break down faster than other flours and aren’t suitable for the same lengths of autolyse as grocery-store white flours. This means the best time frame for autolyse not only varies depending on your process and preference, but also on what type of flour you use.

Potential For Over-Autolyse

Everything is good in moderation, and it is no different when it comes to autolyse. While autolyse naturally develops gluten, it also breaks it down. If you autolyse for too long, the reverse of all the potential benefits will occur. The dough will lose its structure, become overly extensible, slack, and sticky, and will be difficult to shape and handle. The result? A flat loaf.

Autolyse Versus Fermentolyse

Autolyse

During autolyse, only flour and water are mixed together and allowed to rest for a period of time before other ingredients are added.

Benefits include –

• Hydration: Ensures thorough hydration of the flour.
• Gluten development: Starts the gluten formation process, reducing kneading time.
• Enzyme activity: Activates enzymes that improve dough texture and flavor.
• Improved handling: Makes dough more extensible and less sticky.

Fermentolyse

During fermentolyse, flour, water, and sourdough starter are mixed together and allowed to rest for a period of time before other ingredients, namely salt, are added. This is also known as “fermentation autolyse,” as it combines the aspects of both autolyse and fermentation.

Benefits include –

• Early fermentation: Fermentation begins during the resting period, which can develop more complex flavors.
• Gluten development: Similar to autolyse, but the presence of yeast can slightly accelerate the process.
• Improved dough consistency: Like autolyse, fermentolyse helps in achieving better dough texture and handling.

Key Differences

Ingredients

• Autolyse: Only flour and water are mixed initially.
• Fermentolyse: Flour, water, and sourdough starter are mixed initially.

Fermentation

• Autolyse: Fermentation begins after the initial rest period when sourdough starter is added.
• Fermentolyse: Fermentation starts during the initial rest period.

Choosing Between Autolyse and Fermentolyse

There is one thing to consider regarding the addition of the sourdough starter earlier in the process. Fermentation begins as soon as the starter is added. This means the wild yeast and bacteria from your starter begin working immediately. These microorganisms not only contribute to the breaking down of flour, they also off-put gases that inflate the dough. Without gluten, these initial gases may be lost. The extent to which this affects the dough depends entirely on your process and the state of your sourdough starter.

These two techniques also have different purposes. Autolyse is meant to give a head-start to gluten-development. While this is the main goal, another plus is the extensibility gained from the rest period as proteins begin breaking down. Conversely, fermentolyse is meant to gain a head-start on extensibility. Salt tightens the dough, which just means it creates a balloon with a thicker skin that takes a bit more air to blow up. Salt also slows the ability of the gluten to come together, just like any tightening agent. Therefore, fermentolyse gives a chance for gluten to form and microorganisms to start blowing up the dough before tightening agents that could interfere with this process, like salt, are added.

Both methods can greatly improve bread quality. Some bakers even combine the methods: they first autolyse, then add the starter, letting the dough rest again before adding the salt. The choice depends on what the baker wants to achieve and the specific qualities they are aiming for in their bread.

If Gluten Is Already Developed, Why Do I Still Need To Fold The Dough?

This is an incredibly complex question, but I will attempt to answer it as simply as possible.

There are two types of strength in our dough. One comes from the gluten and the tightening agents (such as salt) that are added to it. This kind of strength is what I like to relate to the rubber on a balloon. If the structure is too weak, it is super thin and stretchy, and will pop easily when air is added to it. If it is too strong, it is really hard to blow up because it cannot stretch well, requiring copious amounts of air to get any sort of expansion. The goal when it comes to gluten strength is to create the right balance for the bread we are making.

The other kind of strength comes from fermentation. Think of your bread dough as a bag full of those rubber balloons. When the balloons are empty, the dough is easily pliable. You can move it or bend it every which way. This is a weak dough. When the balloons are filled to their max, it is hard to manipulate the bag of balloons without popping one, if you can even fold it at all. This is a very strong dough. It is important to have balance here, too, because we have to be able to shape our dough, as well as leave room for expansion in the oven.

What folds do is provide tension. If you’ve ever messed with your dough long enough, you’ll notice that it gets really tight and hard to manipulate, but if you let it rest for fifteen to twenty minutes, it relaxes and you are able to work with it some more. Think of each fold, how the dough stretches less and less each time, until it won’t stretch anymore. Then, you let it rest a bit and you are able to fold the dough again. This is tension. The dough tightens for a bit, gaining structure and strength in the moment, that is soon released as the dough has a chance to relax.

Tension helps the dough as it’s gaining strength from fermentation. It gives a loose dough structure for a moment. When the dough relaxes (begins to look flat and sad in the bowl) it is time to add tension again. Eventually, you won’t need to add tension anymore because fermentation has provided enough strength that the dough will stand firm.

Now, it is possible to have a dough whose gluten is so elastic that it does not need folds. This is usually the case with doughs that are mixed to full development in a stand mixer. However, if you are using autolyse to develop, or begin developing, the gluten, in most cases you will still need to create tension through folds.

Is Autolyse Necessary To Develop Gluten or Extensibility In My Dough?

No. Autolyse is not necessary to develop either of these things. Gluten can be developed through kneading, whether by hand or by mixer, and it develops over time as your dough rests. Extensibility can also be developed in a mixer or over time through the natural fermentation process.

What Kind Of Bread Should Be Autolysed?

Arguably, it is not essential for any bread to be autolysed for a desirable outcome. However, autolyse can be a helpful tool in the sourdough baker’s toolbox.

Autolyse is commonly used for artisanal breads. While the word “artisanal” can be vague and have a variety of interpretations, here it is meant as any bread made by hand, generally consisting of a hydration of at least 70% (because at this hydration, the dough is easier to mix by hand). These breads typically consist of only four ingredients: flour, water, sourdough starter, and salt, though they may sometimes include small amounts of oil, sweetener, or other flavoring ingredients that do not have a significant interference with gluten’s natural ability to come together. Examples of artisanal breads include: country bread baguettes, and focaccia. (NOTE: The recipes linked here do NOT include autolyse.)

It may not a good idea to use autolyse for breads that are very low in hydration. The stiff dough may make other ingredients in the recipe hard to incorporate. Conversely, it may not be a good idea to autolyse doughs with a high percentage of flours that are highly extensible, such as spelt, though I still find myself doing this from time to time. While extensibility is good and necessary, it is also weakness. The enzymatic activity that creates extensibility in most flours may break down an already extensible flour, resulting in over-autolyse (from which there is no return).

Last, I typically do not autolyse highly enriched doughs, such as brioche. This is because the high percentage of enrichments interferes with gluten, so it makes more sense to develop the dough in a stand mixer.

Is A Longer Autolyse Better?

This answer to this is completely a matter of personal preference and depends on your process, the environment, and the type of flour being used. The longer the autolyse, the more the gluten develops and the more extensible the dough becomes. This can be incredibly beneficial in the right conditions.

It is best to perform a longer autolyse in cooler temperatures (below 70 F [21 C]). Warmer temperatures accelerate enzymatic activity, which can lead to over-autolyse if left for too long. Conversely, cooler temperatures slow enzymatic activity, meaning a long autolyse can be done in the refrigerator, if desired. (In this instance, bring the dough back up to room temperature before you add the starter).

A longer autolyse can be magical when using the right flour. For example, a high protein white bread flour, such as King Arthur Bread Flour, would do well with an overnight, twelve-hour, autolyse in cooler temperatures (70 F or below). Meanwhile, flours that are highly extensible (ex – spelt) or contain increased enzymatic activity (ex – rye) may not benefit from a longer autolyse, potentially resulting in a sticky, unmanageable dough.

Altogether, the answer to this is not set in stone. The desired duration of autolyse can vary depending on flour choice, strengthening goals, and even environment. Shorter autolyse periods (fifteen to thirty minutes) can still provide benefits, while longer autolyse periods (up to an hour or more) can further enhance dough properties. However, too long an autolyse can result in a slack dough that is difficult to handle. Experimentation may be required to determine what is best in your own home with the flours and methods you prefer to use.

How To Add Autolyse To Your Favorite Bread Recipe

Adding autolyse to your favorite bread recipe is simple. To demonstrate, let me first walk you through a sample recipe that does not use autolyse.

Original recipe:

1. Mix all ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Cover and rest 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Over the next 2-3 hours, perform four to six sets of folds, spaced about 30 minutes apart.
3. Let the dough rest until it has doubled in size.
4. Shape the dough.
5. Let the dough rest on the counter 1-3 more hours, or place in the refrigerator overnight.
6. Bake at 450 F in a Dutch oven for 25 minutes with the lid on, 20 minutes with the lid off.
7. Cool at least 30 minutes before slicing.
8. Enjoy!

To add autolyse to this recipe, we will only change steps one and two.

You will also notice that I changed the order of ingredients in the ingredient list. When mixing the ingredients all at once, it is easier to mix the sourdough starter and water together before adding the flour and salt. When using the autolyse method, flour and water are mixed together and left to rest before sourdough starter and salt are added, thereby changing the order that the ingredients are added to the bowl.

Modified recipe:

1. Mix together flour and water in a mixing bowl. Cover and rest for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours. NOTE: It is possible to do an autolyse of up to 12 hours if your flour can handle it. I recommend starting with the shorter time (2 hours or less), then increasing your time as you become experienced and get a feel for your flour. A longer autolyse should be done in cooler temperatures (less than 70 F [21 C]). You can utilize the refrigerator for this process, if desired.
2. After the flour and water have autolysed and formed a windowpane, add the sourdough starter. Work in the starter for five to six minutes, until well incorporated. Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. NOTE: It is possible to add sourdough starter and salt at the same time. This is completely personal preference. If you want to add them in the same go, I recommend working in the starter for 2-3 minutes on its own before adding the salt. Then, work in the salt and starter together for the remaining time.
3. After 30 minutes, add the salt. Work in the salt for another three to four minutes. Cover and let the dough rest for 45 minutes. NOTE: At this point, your dough should have a strong windowpane (the dough should be fully extensible). If for some reason it does not, let the dough rest and check it again before the first set of folds. If, at this point, it does not have a windowpane, go ahead and knead for a few minutes more in place of the first fold.
4. Perform three sets of folds, either stretch-and-folds or coil folds. Perform three to four folds in each set, at least one fold in each cardinal direction. You will know you have created enough tension when the dough becomes resistant to being stretched. Cover the dough and rest 45 minutes between each set. NOTE: After the third set of folds, evaluate the dough. If the dough is tense and resistant to stretching early in the folding process, no more folds are needed. If the dough is still stretching a lot and it is taking more than four folds to build tension during a set of folds, continue adding sets of folds, one at a time, until the dough becomes more resistant to being stretched.

After folds are finished, continue with the remainder of the recipe as you normally would.

Is Autolyse The “Open-Crumb” Sourdough Secret?

Autolyse alone is not the “open-crumb” sourdough secret. In other words, simply adding autolyse to the baking timeline is not going to magically open up your crumb. However, autolyse can develop ideal gluten and dough structure when done correctly in compilation with many other variables.

There are two ways to create “open-crumb” in sourdough baking: through a highly extensible dough and through optimal fermentation, when the yeast are able to maximally aerate each balloon (areola) inside your dough. I will not discuss open-crumb in detail here because it is such a complex subject. However, you should know how autolyse affects both of these things.

A highly extensible dough is an underdeveloped dough. Its gluten structure is not elastic enough, therefore when the yeast are rapidly multiplying and releasing CO2 during baking, the flimsy gluten structure expands and creates giant air pockets. Autolyse can help create this kind of extensibility, although the effects of autolyse can be countered by folding the dough too much during fermentation.

A maximally aerated dough, one that has achieved optimal fermentation, gains its open crumb from having the appropriate balance of gluten strength and fermentation. It also requires the right balance of microorganisms in the dough, which comes from the care and maintenance of your starter. Autolyse helps create extensibility that helps the dough ferment and expand. It also provides (or helps provide) the gluten network that holds in air from the very start of fermentation, which can help the dough trap the most air.

What, Why, And How?

When baker’s reference “dough temperature,” they are referring to the temperature of their bread dough during bulk fermentation, beginning directly after the dough is mixed and ending just before the dough is shaped. Tracking and controlling the temperature of your dough can help you control the rate of fermentation, which can significantly impact the final characteristics of your bread.

To understand how significantly dough temperature can affect fermentation and bread, it is important to understand the depth of fermentation. The temperature of your dough affects more than just the time it takes for your dough to ferment. It also affects the balance of microorganisms in your starter and bread dough, which affects the strength and fermenting capabilities of your dough.

To dive a little deeper (while also avoiding too much complexity) we have to understand that the leavening agent in our bread is a blend of yeast and different kinds of bacteria that are transferred to our dough through our starter. This being said, nothing will save our bread dough if our starter is out of whack. However, assuming it’s not, we have a perfect balance of CO2, lactic acid, and acetic acid that aerate and flavor our dough.

When dough temperatures are too warm, we encourage the reproduction of a kind of bacteria called homofermentative lactic acid bacteria (homofermentative LAB) over yeast. Homofermentative LAB reproduce faster than yeast already, so when temperatures are in their favor, they really take over. Homofermentative LAB break down proteins in your flour and create extensibility (your dough’s ability to stretch), which is only good until it isn’t, and the gluten structure is completely broken down before the loaf is aerated to its maximum potential.

When temperatures are too cold, yeast move very, very slowly. While the yeast are slowly inching along, other strains of bacteria are continuing to reproduce, leading to complex, and eventually very sour, flavors in your bread. It may even seem that your bread is hardly rising at all. Likely, your bread will not rise to its fullest potential before becoming extremely sour, due to the sluggish yeast – leaving you with a dense bread whose flavor just isn’t quite right.

So, what is an ideal dough temperature? 73-75 F (23-24 C) seems to be a perfect middle. You can get maximum aeration from the yeast, as well as great structure in your dough and a delicious complexion of flavors. I do not recommend fermenting colder than 70 F (21 C), though the cooler dough makes overnight sourdough possible. Last, you can go as high at 78 F (26 C), but in my experience, the resulting bread does not have near as good of a texture – it is nowhere near as light and airy as the bread fermented in cooler temperatures.

To track your dough’s temperature, you need an instant-read thermometer. Once you have finished mixing your dough, stick it right into the middle of your dough and check the temperature. This will give you an idea of how your dough will perform during bulk fermentation: the speed at which it will rise, how fast the gluten structure will break down, and what kind of flavors might be present in your bread after baking. To keep the dough temperature consistent, it is helpful to keep the dough in an environment similar to your desired dough temperature, which for me is around 73-75 F (23-24 C). You can also use the environment to help warm or cool off the dough, checking your dough’s temperature periodically during bulk fermentation to make sure you are on track.

A proofing box or any kind of device that can maintain a low temperature (I use my toaster oven because it goes as low as 60 F [15.5 C]) is a great tool for maintaining your desired dough temperature (also known as DDT). It can be an investment, but one that is well worth it if you are a serious baker looking for consistent results.

Of course, there are other, cheaper, less consistent alternatives. You could use: a seedling or dough mat to warm the dough from the bottom or sides, an oven (not running) with the light inside turned on, a microwave with the door shut (and maybe a cup of very hot, steamy water inside), or an insulated lunchbox with an ice pack (if you needed to cool the dough). In these instances, it is definitely helpful to check the dough’s temperature throughout bulk fermentation in order to make sure everything is on the right track, and that the dough is not too hot or too cold.

Altogether, when dough temperature is measured and maintained throughout the fermentation process, and the same dough temperature is applied to each and every loaf of bread, the baker can better predict fermentation with each loaf and produce more consistent results in their bakes.

Do I Have To Keep Track Of Dough Temperature?

Absolutely not. It is not essential to track dough temperature in order to make good bread. What is more important is understanding how the entire process works together to create a loaf with the characteristics that you like in your bread.

Tracking dough temperature is like a crutch, but also a good habit. It can help you nail fermentation even before you understand it. Then, when you do begin to understand fermentation, tracking your dough’s temperature can help you keep track of your dough (double-check yourself, in a sense). It’s your sidekick to producing consistent bakes. Being able to read fermentation is an advanced skill that comes at the cost of many loaves of bread (I am still figuring it out), but it is the secret to success. Understanding the impact of dough temperature can help give you success even before you truly understand why you are successful, kind of like following a recipe can help you make a good meal even before you are aware why each step was taken.

A Deeper Dive Into Dough Temperature (Plus How The Refrigerator Can Affect Our Dough)

At this point, you already know that the temperature of your dough can impact both the rate of fermentation and the balance of microorganisms in your dough. How can we use this to our advantage?

Because the ideal (or my ideal) temperature for balancing microorganisms in our dough is 73-75 F (23-24 C), we can strive to keep our dough in this temperature range for the majority of bulk fermentation. This way, we can be assured that our dough is maximally aerated and structured during fermentation. Then, once we get our dough to this point, we have options. We can shape it, let it relax and ferment some more, and then bake it right away. Or, we can develop complexity in our bread + extend the baking timeline.

I love to use the refrigerator at some point in my sourdough bread recipes whenever possible, or (at least) whenever it makes sense. To keep bulk fermentation around 73-75 F (23-24 C) means the dough must ferment for 9-10 hours before it is shaped. This can make it impossible to make a loaf of bread in one day, unless I want to be up really late at night. Or, I could ferment my dough overnight, but then I would not be able to observe/structure my dough (folds) throughout the bulk of fermentation. Using the refrigerator does make sense, and it can be a helpful tool.

Yeast will continue to multiply and aerate your dough in the refrigerator, they are just significantly slowed. If your dough is already mostly finished fermenting, this is not an issue. While the yeast slow, different kinds of bacteria continue to work, producing more complex flavors in your bread. While the bacteria will eventually break down your gluten structure and result in a sour loaf, twelve to sixteen hours in the fridge for a properly developed and fermented bread dough will not do any harm.

Working with a cold dough has other benefits too. I find that alongside an expanded baking timeline and greater depth of flavor, my loaves are easier to score. And, sticking a cold dough into a piping hot oven can really create an explosive effect as yeast are rapidly multiplying and releasing CO2 gases up until their death.

The refrigerator can be a bit tricky when we open the range of bulk fermentation to warmer or cooler dough temperatures. That’s because warmer dough takes longer to cool in the refrigerator. This means a warm dough will be aerated by yeast for a significantly longer period of time than a cooler dough, who already possesses sluggish yeast. This does not even touch on the imbalance of microorganisms already present in our dough and how the refrigerator can only make a bad situation worse.

Dough That Is Too Warm

For example, it is a common practice to aim for 78 F (26 C) as the ideal DDT (desired dough temperature). In these warm temperatures, those homofermentative LAB are happily working to break down your dough’s structure. While the yeast will move quicker, they will not move as fast as the homofermentative LAB. Therefore, it is likely the dough’s structure will break down (the dough will overproof) before the yeast can fully aerate the dough, producing a bread that far less fluffy than a maximally aerated dough.

Now, throw the refrigerator into the mix. Your dough will cool down much slower. Yeast will continue to aerate until the dough cools off while the homofermentative LAB are already overpopulated and will continue to break down your dough’s structure. If you ferment the dough outside of the fridge for too long, you dough will overproof in the refrigerator, leaving you with a sticky dough that won’t hold its shape.

That’s why many recipes call for a size increase of only 30%-40% when using a DDT of 78 F (26 C). Your dough will not hold up in the fridge if it was fermented too warm. To compensate, the dough is fermented for less time, resulting in less aeration and denser, but very much tolerable, bread.

If you are someone who is after open crumb – you can achieve open crumb from a dough fermented in this manner. It’s an interesting work-around the entire process, and it’s a rabbit hole for another day. In essence, you have to create an overly extensible dough (not very strong; rather, weak, underdeveloped, and very stretchy). By pairing this with a very hot baking temperature, the lax structure of your dough will create large, irregular air pockets as the dough rapidly expands in the hot oven.

Dough That Is Too Cold

As counter example, let’s say your home is fairly cold, and your dough temperature resides around 65 F (18 C). Yeast are already sluggish in these temperatures, and your dough will move very slowly. Heterofermentative LAB are favored: a different strain of bacteria that produces acid that is noticeably sour, while also tightening your dough’s structure. This is the opposite of the homofermentative LAB. While homofermentative LAB break down your dough, heterofermentative LAB tighten it. Trying to blow up a tight dough is like trying to blow up a balloon with really thick rubber. It takes double the amount of air just to blow it up. Did you catch that? 2X the air with yeast that are just inching along. To top it off, while your microorganisms are sluggishly blowing up this really thick balloon, your dough is getting really sour.

Now, throw the refrigerator into the mix. At this point, you may be thinking – why would you even do that? But, let’s say you do. Your dough will look like it has made absolutely no progress. Yeast growth is slowed even more; meanwhile the excess of heterofermentative LAB have continued to tighten the dough and make it even more sour (because at this point, we’ve moved past the “complex” flavor achievable from proper balance).

Can you achieve an open crumb like this? I have never done it. The dough is too tight, and the yeast cannot expand their balloons (each areola) in the oven. Even if I did let the dough rest until I suspected it had aerated enough and skipped the refrigerator, I think the microorganisms would be so off balance that they would prevent the crumb from opening up. In other words, the dough would be too acidic (acidic dough keeps the crumb closed).

Controlling Your Dough’s Temperature From The Start

Many bakers are obsessed with controlling their dough’s temperature from the very beginning. To achieve their DDT (desired dough temperature) from the get-go, they do some math that will get their FDT (final dough temperature) as close as possible to their DDT. Maybe you are one of those bakers who wants to know how to get your dough’s temperature right on track from the very start. Let me show you how:

The formula for calculating DDT looks something like this:

DDT = (Temperature of Ingredients + Friction Factor + Ambient Room Temperature) / (Number of Variables – 1)

Temperature Of Ingredients

This is the temperature of each ingredient that goes into your dough.

For most artisanal breads, there are only a few ingredients: flour, water, salt, and sourdough starter. Usually, these ingredients are at room temperature, unless you store your flour in the fridge or your starter in a warmer. Water is the only variable that baker’s can precisely control, and they use this to their advantage by heating up the water to a predetermined amount, which helps them more closely achieve their DDT.

For enriched doughs, friction factor is so high (due to necessary increased mixing times) that baker’s making these doughs generally place all of their ingredients in the fridge to cool down, which helps keep their dough from getting too warm during mixing.

Friction Factor

Friction factor is simply the amount the dough will heat up when mixed – whether by mechanical mixer or by hand. Friction can be applied as an estimated, predetermined variable (basically, just a guess). Here are some variables you can use depending on your mixing method:

Of course, every mixer and every mixing method will lend a different friction factor, so if you want an exact number – I’ve got you. However, a guess is generally good enough.

Ambient Room Temperature

This is the temperature of the room in which you are mixing your dough.

Controlling DDT Using Water Temperature

When calculating DDT to achieve a specific FDT, the baker is usually looking for the necessary temperature of an ingredient they can control. In most cases, this is water. The room temperature, temperature of flour, and temperature of starter can be somewhat controlled, but by the time dough is being mixed, these variables are what they are. Meanwhile, water can easily be heated up or cooled down to achieve a FDT as close to the DDT as possible.

To determine the temperature water should be to achieve DDT, the process goes as follows:

Plug known variables into the equation (below are simply example variables, and how each variable can be obtained) –

Using these example variables, the equation now looks something like this:

DDT = (Temperature of Ingredients + Friction Factor + Ambient Room Temperature) / (Number of Variables – 1)

75 = (70 +70 + 72 + X + 5 + 70) / (6-1)

Now, solve for “X” to determine the temperature of the unknown, controllable variable, which in this case is water.

75 = (287 + X) / 5

375 = 287 + X

88 = X

In this instance, heating the water to approximately 88 F will help achieve a FDT as close to the DDT as possible. 

Finding The Exact Variable For Friction Factor

As previously mentioned, the friction factors given above are predetermined estimates that may or may not lead to the DDT you are looking for. To know how to adjust friction factor to suit your own mixing practices, you’ll need to take the difference between your FDT and your DDT and add it to the friction factor used in the original equation.

Friction Factor Too Low

For example, say I used the formula above, but my FDT was 77 F, off-shooting the DDT by +2 F, meaning my mixing method generated more heat than originally accounted for.

77 (FDT) – 75 (DDT) = 2

To adjust friction factor, add “2” (the difference between FDT and DDT) to “5” (the original friction factor used in the equation).

5 + 2 = 7

In this instance, “7” would be more appropriate to use as the friction factor the next time the dough is mixed in the same manner.

Friction Factor Too High

But, let’s say the FDT was 73 F, -2 F less than the goal of 75 F, meaning the mixing method generated less heat than originally accounted for. Follow the same steps:

73 (FDT) – 75 (DDT) = (-2)

To adjust friction factor, add “-2” (the difference between FDT and DDT) to “5” (the original friction factor used in the equation).

5 + (-2) = 3

In this instance, “3” would be more appropriate to use as the friction factor the next time the dough is mixed in the same manner.

Conclusion

Understanding how dough temperature can create different outcomes in your dough will only help you achieve better bread with more consistent outcomes. The temperature of your dough not only affects the rate of fermentation, but also the balance of microorganisms, which can create varying characteristics in your dough and the bread baked from it.

What Is The Desired Outcome Of A Homemade English Muffin?

When asking my social media following what is most important in an English muffin, they noted two things: a) nooks and crannies and b) the gritty cornmeal on the outside. The latter is easy to manage, but the nooks and crannies are much more difficult. So many components come together to achieve perfect nooks and crannies in an English muffin – liquid choice being one of them. 

Not only does liquid effect the crumb, but also many other factors, including: how the dough handles, ferments, cooks, browns, and even the final texture and density. If you are going for a denser, softer English muffin, you will want to choose a different liquid than if you were going for a light and airy English muffin.

Altogether, the desired outcome of an English muffin is going to depend on personal preference. For me, the choice is:

• Light and airy
• Nooks and crannies
• Puffy, but not too puffy (I do not care for so much bread in my English muffin breakfast sandwiches that it overpowers the fillings)
• Gritty cornmeal texture on the outside
• Classic flat top and bottom with a dark (but not burnt) surface from frying

How Does Liquid Choice Affect The Desired Outcome?

Of the attributes listed above that make up my perfect English muffin, liquid choice is going to affect the following:

• The texture of the muffin and overall density: light and airy or dense and soft
• Crumb structure: whether clear, defined nooks and crannies are present
• Darkening/burning on the outside of the muffin during frying

Though these are the main, most important effects of liquid choice, liquid can also affect:

• The dough feel and texture during gluten development, fermentation, and shaping
• How the muffins rise and bake
• The final, overall flavor

Milk And English Muffins

Milk has its place in the bread-making world. It can turn out excellent results in many bread recipes. In others, though, milk just is not a good fit. Is it a fit for English muffins? Well, that is for you to decide.

Milk’s effects –

• Dough handling: Milk is a tightening agent, meaning it creates a stiffer, less extensible dough (the dough is not as stretchy). This means it affects the dough’s consistency, making it easier or more difficult to work with, depending on the recipe and amount of milk used. For English muffins, a milk-based dough is very elastic, making folds (the method of dough development used in my recipe) much more difficult (and maybe not the best method of choice for a milk-based dough).
• Fermentation: Milk slows fermentation because it creates a thicker balloon (more elastic gluten network) that takes more air to blow up. This leads to the need for more sourdough starter, longer fermenting times, or warmer liquid temperature during the initial mix to help the dough rise reasonably. 
• Crumb structure: The proteins in milk, particularly casein, contribute to a finer crumb structure. This results in a more uniform and even crumb, which can be desirable in many types of bread. For English muffins, though, this means the nooks and crannies are near impossible to achieve.
• Softness: The fats and proteins milk imparts to the dough will lead to a softer, more tender crumb and texture. In English muffins, milk will create a “soft and fluffy” end result.
• Flavor: Milk imparts a subtle, creamy flavor to the bread, as well as a subtle sweetness due to the lactose.
• Density: Milk will create a denser overall end result. If a thick and heavy English muffin is the desired outcome, milk as the primary liquid would be a good choice. 
• Color: The proteins and sugars in milk help with the Maillard reaction, which results in a deeper, golden-brown crust, especially when compared to a water-based bread. Milk-based breads baked at higher temperatures tend to darken very quickly, and even burn. For English muffins, this means the low and slow cooking method is a must if using milk as the primary liquid, otherwise the outside will burn before the inside is fully cooked.

Water And English Muffins

Water is an extremely common, fundamental liquid in bread-making, used in many types of bread doughs. This is all for good reason: water influences various aspects of the dough’s behavior and characteristics of the final bread.

Water’s effects –

• Dough handling: A water-based dough is fairly easy to handle, mostly dependent on the overall hydration of the bread. For English muffins, a water-based dough is more extensible and loose, easier to manage during folds (my choice for dough development for this bread). It also tends to be slightly stickier than a milk-based dough.
• Fermentation: Water-based doughs set the standard for fermentation. While water temperature can affect overall fermentation speed, a water-based dough will generally rise faster than a milk-based dough, due to the more extensible gluten network.
• Crumb structure: Water is always going to lead to a more open and airy crumb, though the exact amount of “open” and “airy” is also dependent on overall dough hydration and fermentation. For English muffins, this means it is possible to achieve beautiful nooks and crannies, in addition to a light flavor, with a water base.
• Softness: A water based dough is not particularly “soft” or “fluffy,” thus, using water as the main liquid in English muffins leads to a less tender crumb and texture.
• Flavor: Water itself does not influence the flavor of the bread, though the amount of water added can influence flavor development during fermentation. English muffins made primarily with water do not impart any sort of sweet or creamy flavor.
• Density: Water will create a lighter overall end result. If a light and airy English muffin is the desired outcome, water as the primary liquid would be a good choice. 
• Color: Breads made with water need to be baked at high temperatures in order to brown properly on their own, and require a wash (like an egg wash) to encourage darkening when baked at lower temperatures. This is because water itself does not include proteins and sugars that encourage a Maillard reaction, which just means the bread will not turn brown. For English muffins, this means the muffins can be fried at a higher heat initially without fear of burning, which helps with the initial spring and overall crumb structure.

Comparison Video: Milk Versus Water In English Muffins

What Liquid Do You Use For Your English Muffins?

For my English muffin recipe, I choose to use a heavy water base with a small amount of milk. I think the combination balances well. The heavy water base gives the muffins an overall light and airy texture, as well as opens the crumb (nooks and crannies) and allows the muffins to be fried over a higher heat initially. The small portion of milk adds a touch of softness and depth of flavor to the dough, as well as enhances the color on the outside of the dough during its short frying time. Even though milk is a tightening agent and can close your crumb, there is not enough of it in my recipe to take away your gorgeous nooks. In fact, it may even help you obtain a taller English muffin and allow fermentation to be just a bit more flexible. In the end, I leave this choice up to the baker, as the recipe can be easily made with 100% water, if desired. Find my full English muffin recipe below:

What Is Tangzhong?

Tangzhong is a technique derived from Asia, used in bread making, where some of the flour is cooked with a liquid, usually milk or water. This water roux gelatinizes the starches in the flour, and, when added to the recipe, produces a bread that is soft, fluffy, and moist with a good shelf life.

Tangzhong In A Nutshell

How Does Tangzhong Work In A Recipe?

Tangzhong works by creating a gel-like mixture that helps improve the texture and moisture retention of bread. The key science behind tangzhong lies in the gelatinization of starches present in the flour. When precooked, the flour is able to to soak in and retain more moisture, almost by double. This results in a bread that stays fresh for much longer (does not go stale as quickly), and is more soft and tender than a bread made without tangzhong.

A Breakdown Of The Science Of Tangzhong

When the flour and liquid mixture (tangzhong) is heated, the starches in the flour absorb water and gelatinize, which involves the swelling and thickening of starch granules. The gelatinized starches form a network or matrix within the tangzhong, which can hold onto water and create a structure that helps trap moisture during baking. This extra water retention contributes to a softer and moister crumb in the finished bread.

When the tangzhong is added to bread dough, the gelatinized starches help to enhance the dough’s structure, resulting in a more stable and uniform rise during fermentation and baking. It also delays the retrogradation of the starches (the process where the starches in bread recrystallize and firm up), keeping the bread from staling and helping the bread to stay softer and fresher for a more extended period of time. This improved moisture retention and delayed staling contributes to a longer shelf life for the bread.

What Kinds Of Recipes Pair Well With Tangzhong?

Tangzhong goes well with any bread where a soft and tender crumb is desired. This usually includes milk-based breads or breads made from stiff doughs. Tangzhong pairs well with sweet breads, such as cinnamon rolls or pull-apart bread, but also makes the perfect addition to soft and savory breads like sandwich bread and any kind of bun (ex – dinner rolls, hamburger/hot dog buns). Tangzhong would not pair well with artisanal breads, such as baguettes or country bread, where a chewy crust and open interior are desired.

How Do I Make Tangzhong?

Making tangzhong is easy.

Start by whisking together five parts liquid (generally water or milk) to one part bread or all-purpose flour in a small saucepan until no lumps remain. For example, if you use 100 g of liquid, you will need 20 g of flour.

Place the saucepan over medium heat and whisk continuously until the mixture thickens and transforms into a gel-like consistency.

Remove the tangzhong from heat and cover tightly with plastic wrap (this is to prevent a skin from forming on the outer layer). Let it cool to room temperature before incorporating in your bread recipe.

When Is The Best Time To Make Tangzhong?

A tangzhong can be made anytime before you begin mixing your bread dough. This means you can make it the morning or evening you mix your bread, as long as it has ample time to cool. You could place it in the refrigerator or freezer to speed along the cooling process. 

In most recipes where I use tangzhong, I also use a sweet stiff starter. In this case, I like to make the tangzhong when I mix the starter, then let the tangzhong cool in the refrigerator while the starter rises.

I also sometimes make the tangzhong right before I mix my dough. In this case, I make the tangzhong first, before I prepare/measure any other ingredients. Then, I place the tangzhong in the freezer while I prep my dough. To make sure the tangzhong is cool enough, I stick my finger into the center. If it is warm, but does not burn my finger, it is fine to incorporate into the dough.

What Kind Of Flour Or Liquid Can Be Used To Make Tangzhong?

Tangzhong can be made using any kind of flour with sufficient starches and most liquids that can be cooked on the stovetop. I usually stick to white flour, bread or all-purpose, but like to play around with the liquids. I have made tangzhong using water, milk, buttermilk, and even pineapple juice. Let’s take a closer look at the possibilities for each:

As far as flour goes, any flour with sufficient starches will work. I have only tested tangzhong with wheat flours (white flour – bread and all-purpose – and whole wheat); though, any kind of wheat flour should work. This includes: whole wheat, spelt, rye, semolina, etc. You may notice that some flours absorb a lot more liquid than others, thereby creating a thicker tangzhong. The recipe developer should account for this and make adjustments to the recipe-specific tangzhong formula.

I have had many ask me if gluten-free flours will work for tangzhong. I have not tested gluten-free options in tangzhong, but I imagine starchy gluten-free grains would work. Starches like potato starch, tapioca starch, and corn starch will work to thicken the liquid (noting the proportions may need to be adjusted [since this is straight starch and not flour]), but I am not sure if they would have the same effect in the bread.

As far as the liquid goes, you can use almost anything. Water is common. Any kind of milk will work: whole milk, two percent, low fat, lactose-free, or even coconut, almond, soy, etc. I’ve also used buttermilk and pineapple juice with great success. I generally use whatever liquid makes sense with the recipe, or is already part of the recipe.

Once you understand tangzhong, how to make it, and its effects on the dough, there is a lot of flexibility that can occur within the ingredients, depending on your personal recipe goals.

How Do I Convert A Bread Recipe To Tangzhong?

First, consider if tangzhong would really pair well with the recipe. Remember – soft and tender breads, like milk breads or breads made from stiff doughs – pair well with tangzhong. Recipes that are meant to have a chewier texture, like country bread or pizza crust, are not good options for tangzhong. If you are struggling with these breads, it is likely another issue, and tangzhong will not fix the problem.

Second, make sure you know at least the amount of flour and water you are using by weight (not volume!). One cup of water weighs twice as much as one cup of flour, so this formula will not work for volume measurements.

Next, it is important to consider the hydration (how wet or dry the dough is) of the recipe. Since the tangzhong’s addition allows more moisture to be absorbed, it is important that the hydration of the original recipe be at least 75% before converting to tangzhong. Otherwise, the resulting dough may be too thick and dry. I say “may” because I have converted several stiff doughs to tangzhong and ended up reducing the amount of liquid I added to the formula back down to keep the consistency I was going for. When experimenting, it is best to hold back some of the added liquid when mixing the dough. This way, if your dough does not need the extra liquid, the proportions of the recipe (rest of the ingredients) are not thrown off.

To calculate hydration, simply divide the total amount of liquid by the total amount of flour. Read more about hydration here. Essentially, there is a simple way and a technical way to calculate hydration. For the sake of simplicity, it is okay to exclude ingredients like eggs or even your sourdough starter that contain extra water or flour content. The rough estimate given by simply dividing the amount of water by flour in the recipe is good enough. 

If the total comes out to at least .75 (75%) you are good to go. If the total is less than this, you will need to adjust the amounts of flour and liquid in the recipe to get the desired hydration of 75%. Here’s how to do that:

Let’s say the recipe calls for 315 g of water and 525 g of flour. 315 divided by 525 is .60 (60%). So, the dough’s current hydration is 60%, and we need it to be at least 75%. To fix this, we will need to add more liquid. We can calculate the specific amount of liquid needed by taking the amount of flour in the recipe (in this case, 525 g) and multiplying it by .75 (75%). 525 multiplied by .75 gives us 393.75 g of liquid that we need to add to the recipe. It is okay to round this number up to 395, or even 400, grams of liquid. In conclusion, the new totals of water and flour for this recipe are 395 g of water and 525 g of flour. Now this recipe is ready to convert to tangzhong.

A standard slurry of tangzhong uses 5-10% of the total weight of the flour and consists of five parts liquid to one part flour (by weight). Let’s continue with the totals above to determine how much flour and water is needed to make our slurry.

To start out, use 5% of the total weight of the flour. The higher the percentage of tangzhong in the recipe, the more soft and plush the dough is. 10% can be quite a lot to start with; always start with the lower amount and increase as desired. 5% of 525 g of flour is calculated by multiplying 525 X .05 (5%). The end result is 26.25 g. I am going to round this up to 30 g of flour for my recipe. Since this still falls in the 5-10% range, this is not an issue. Now, I know I need 30 g of flour, but how much water should be used to create the tangzhong? Since a tangzhong consists of one part flour to five parts liquid, I am going to multiply 30 by 5. 30 X 5 = 150 g of liquid. In conclusion, I will make the tangzhong by whisking together 30 g of flour with 150 g of water until no lumps remain, then heating over medium heat and whisking continuously until a gel-like paste forms. Last, I will remove from heat, cover tightly to prevent a skin from forming, and let it cool to at least room temperature before incorporating into my recipe. 

Finally, we need to adjust the amounts of water and flour in the recipe. Since we used 30 g of flour to make the tangzhong, we will subtract this from the original 525 g of flour in the recipe. 525 – 30 = 495 g of flour. Repeat this process with the liquid in the recipe. 395 -150 = 245 g of water. Now, we can make the recipe using our new totals of flour and water and incorporating the tangzhong. 

To review, the original totals of flour and water for this example were as follows:

• 525 g of flour
• 315 g of water

This gave us a hydration of 60% (calculated by dividing water by flour) which is too low of a hydration to add a tangzhong. So we increased the hydration to 75% by adding more liquid. The exact amount was determined by taking 75% of the flour in the recipe. The new totals were as follows:

• 525 g flour
• 395 g water

Now, we took a portion of this flour and water and made a tangzhong. A tangzhong consists of 5-10% of the total flour, and is generally one part flour to five parts liquid. Our tangzhong totals were as follows:

• 30 g flour
• 150 g water

Then, we subtracted these amounts from the flour and water in the recipe, so that we could add in the tangzhong. The final totals were:

• 495 g flour
• 245 g water
• Add tangzhong to the dough

And, that’s it! Remember: if you had to increase the amount of liquid in the recipe, it is a good idea to hold some of it back during mixing, adding as needed to get the consistency you are going for. Once the tangzhong is incorporated into the dough, you can follow the recipe directions as written. 

Now you know how to convert any recipe to tangzhong!

Do You Have Any Bread Recipes That Feature Tangzhong?