The bread of my dreams! This one has such a variety of grains which gives it so much flavor. Of all the sandwich bread recipes, this one has to be at the top. At least, at the moment. I make too many yummy breads around here to stick with just one.

What Is Sandwich Bread?

Sandwich bread is a type of bread made specifically for sandwiches. It is typically made in a loaf pan (though not always!). These breads are soft, yet sturdy, with a tight, even crumb (to make sure none of the sauce slips out!).

What I Love About This Recipe

Soft. Fluffy. Flavorful.

Though a basic white bread is good, I truly believe a good multigrain bread is better. I love the exquisite combination the grains bring, which simply adds an incredible depth of flavor. This recipe has a few secrets that make it simple, yet effective. Due to its higher hydration, it is a little more difficult to work with than my basic white bread. Despite this, I still use a stand mixer for simple ease, though stretch-and-folds would work as well. This is by far my family’s favorite sandwich recipe to date, and I hope it becomes a favorite in your home as well.

All The “Why’s”

Hot Cereal

Hot cereal serves two purposes: simplicity and softness. Using a hot cereal blend means it is possible to include a larger variety of grains without having to source out each grain/flour individually. I use Bob’s Red Mill 7-grain hot cereal blend, but any multigrain cereal blend should work for this recipe, as long as you are sure to develop the dough correctly. In this recipe, the hot cereal is combined with boiling water and allowed to rest, cool, and absorb moisture before the bread dough is mixed. This step creates the perfect amount of softness in the final loaf. The heated grains function exactly like a yudane or tangzhong, gelatinizing the starches and allowing the grains to retain more moisture, the perfect pairing for a sandwich loaf.

Honey

Honey is used to help limit potential sourness (though it can still occur). This recipe contains about 11% honey, which is the perfect percentage to create osmotic stress. If you don’t know what osmotic stress is, it’s when the bacteria in your starter (they create sourness) are suffocated, in a sense, limiting their acid production. The honey also works to sweeten the bread, but only a bit. This is not a sweet bread.

Honey can be substituted with most other natural sweeteners – granulated sugar, molasses, maple syrup, brown sugar. I have not tested this recipe with sugar substitutes.

Butter

Butter (any kind of fat, really) is a tenderizer; it makes the dough fragile and soft. In this recipe, I only use a small amount, which is meant to keep the bread soft in the oven and after baking – so important for sandwich bread! My personal choice is butter, but you can use any kind of fat (olive oil, neutral oil, bacon fat, lard, tallow, etc.) as long as you like the flavor.

Flour Choice

I’ve used all-purpose and whole wheat flours in addition to the hot cereal blend to create this multigrain loaf. Though there are some differences between all-purpose and bread flour, specifically when it comes to gluten-binding proteins, I find the use of bread flour is not an absolute “must” in this recipe. In fact, all-purpose flour helps create extensibility, which can be helpful when paired with dense whole grains.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This sandwich dough is fairly wet compared to some of my sandwich loaves, but not completely unmanageable. It contains enough water that the grains from the hot cereal and the whole wheat flour do not dry out the dough or create a dense loaf. The dough is slightly slack and sticky, due to the extra water. Using wet or lightly floured hands to work the dough during shaping is all that is required to make it compliant. 

Mixing

For this recipe, I use a stand mixer to develop my dough. The main thing we want to look for when mixing/kneading any dough up front is a windowpane. This tells us that gluten has come together and that the dough will be able to hold in air. Using a lower speed on the mixer will create a more elastic (strong, tough, not stretchy) dough, while a higher speed will create extensibility (stretchy, loose). For a dough that is just right, aim for somewhere in the middle, speed 3-4 on a KitchenAid (if you think your mixer can handle it) or speed 3-4 o’clock on an Ankarsrum.

The other important thing to consider is your dough’s temperature. Try to make sure it doesn’t get above 78 F (26 C). If you notice the dough is taking too long in the mixer, give it a 10-15 minute rest and try again. Time will help it relax and finish developing.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). Then, you can shape it and let it double again. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

Shaping

Shaping sandwich bread is so easy. You can really shape it however you want, as long as the top is smooth and the seams are sealed. Since this dough is a little looser, it requires a bit more consideration handling. Lightly watered or floured hands may be necessary to help prevent the dough from becoming a sticky mess. To shape the dough, I like to turn it out, pat it into a rectangle, fold the outer thirds inward, then roll it into a log.

Butter Wash

Washing your loaf with butter helps keep the crust soft during baking. I also like to brush my loaves with butter after baking, for the best flavor and softness.

Baking Method: Temperature

For breads with milk, a lower baking temperature is better. Because milk contributes to the Maillard reaction, the bread will still brown fine in the oven. Your dough will rise and bake slowly, contributing to an even crumb. The low-and-slow bake will also keep the dough soft, as it is able to retain more moisture this way.

Baking Method: Steam

Since this is a sandwich bread – which is purposefully soft – you don’t have to remove the steam from the oven like you would for a crusty bread. It helps the dough stay soft, which leads to better expansion and texture. I use a pan of boiling water next to my dough, but you can use any method you like.

Suggested Timeline

Suggested Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

I had a follower ask if I could make a sandwich bread with all whole wheat flour. This follower had/has health concerns, making whole wheat the best option for their lifestyle. The answer – well, of course! This bread accounts for the whole wheat flour appropriately. It’s not dry or dense. In fact, it is all the things you could want in a sandwich bread – except, with the strong flavor and health benefits that come with whole wheat.

What Is Sandwich Bread?

Sandwich bread is a type of bread made specifically for sandwiches. It is typically made in a loaf pan (though not always!). These breads are soft, yet sturdy, with a tight, even crumb (to make sure none of the sauce slips out!).

What I Love About This Recipe

Whole wheat can be an adventure. This is especially true when it makes up 100% of the flour in a recipe. Luckily, I have some tricks up my sleeve. This recipe is a tad more advanced than others, but the extra effort is well worth it if you need a good-tasting whole wheat bread for your lifestyle.

All The “Why’s”

Optional Levain

A levain is a starter that you make specifically for a recipe. All of it is used to make the dough; nothing is left behind for the purpose of replenishing your starter. Generally, I take from my mother starter for all my recipes, unless otherwise noted. However, for this recipe, I wanted to truly make it 100% whole wheat, so I made a 100% whole wheat starter as an offshoot of my regular starter.

I also tested this recipe with my mother starter with great results. The main difference is going to be flavor; therefore, the choice is optional. You can use some of your mother starter or you can make a levain.

Make sure that your starter is in tip-top shape! One thing about whole wheat is that bacteria are obsessed. Homofermentative lactic acid bacteria (LAB) eat at proteins in your flour that degrade the gluten structure. This is good to an extent, but (because they reproduce faster than yeast, especially in warm environments, especially with whole wheat flour) you might find your dough overproofing before it is fully aerated. If this happens, you have a starter problem.

If your starter is out of balance, you’ll also notice your bread is more sour. Sometimes this happens anyway due to the whole wheat (especially if it has fermented for too long), but it is more likely to happen when the starter is already too acidic.

Milk Mixture

This is a technique that stems from the beginning of my bread journey, when I first started making bread doughs using commercial yeast. The warm mixture activates commercial yeast, which isn’t necessary in sourdough. However, it also dissolves the sweetener, softens the butter, and gives the dough warmth – giving it a great kickstart to fermentation.

Let’s talk about the specific ingredients more in-depth:

Milk + Water

Milk is a tightening agent in bread, meaning it makes the gluten network stiffer and stronger, often increasing the time the dough ferments. This is because it takes twice the air to blow up a stiff balloon (our gluten network). However, it also adds a really good flavor and texture to sandwich bread. It makes the bread denser (in a good way), softer, and creamier. It also helps the bread darken in the oven. For these reasons, I love to use milk in my sandwich bread recipes, but I also find it is best to balance the milk with water.

Water is the opposite of milk. It creates an extensible gluten network (loose, stretchy). It balances out the stiffness from the milk. It makes the dough lighter and airier. However, water does not really have a flavor and it doesn’t darken in the oven (unless you bake the bread at a really high temperature).

For these reasons, I like to balance these two ingredients accordingly, depending on the outcome I am trying to achieve. For a bread like this, milk is the winner for its tight, even crumb, flavor, and darkening capabilities. I use three parts milk to one part water to make this dough.

Honey

Honey is used to help limit potential sourness (though it can still occur). This recipe contains about 11% honey, which is the perfect percentage to create osmotic stress. If you don’t know what osmotic stress is, it’s when the bacteria in your starter (they create sourness) are suffocated, in a sense, limiting their acid production. The honey also works to sweeten the bread, but only a bit. This is not a sweet bread.

Honey can be substituted with most other natural sweeteners – granulated sugar, molasses, maple syrup, brown sugar. I have not tested this recipe with sugar substitutes.

Butter

Butter (any kind of fat, really) is a tenderizer; it makes the dough fragile and soft. In this recipe, I only use a small amount, which is meant to keep the bread soft in the oven and after baking – so important for sandwich bread! My personal choice is butter, but you can use any kind of fat (olive oil, neutral oil, bacon fat, lard, tallow, etc.) as long as you like the flavor.

Yudane

Yudane is an Asian technique similar in effect to tangzhong. It is generally performed by combining equal parts flour and boiling water, stirring, and letting it cool before adding to the bread. This small step gelatinizes the starches in the flour, which helps the dough retain moisture (almost by double) leading to a softer, fluffier end result that stays fresh for days.

However, in this recipe, I make the yudane with two parts boiling water to one part whole wheat flour. That’s because whole wheat absorbs a lot of water. The yudane’s consistency is most important, so I adjust the water to match the needs of the flour.

Whole Wheat Flour

Whole wheat flour is a beast when it comes to bread. Think of whole wheat flour like all-purpose flour in terms of its ability to form gluten. The bran and germ increase the protein content, but they do not play a part in gluten formation. In fact, they tend to cut through gluten, leaving the bread with a more tender (less chewy) crumb. Because of this, we must pay special attention to fermentation, since the dough cannot hold in air as readily. I use King Arthur Whole Wheat Flour in this recipe.

Vital Wheat Gluten (Optional)

I only recently (a few months ago) discovered vital wheat gluten, and have since come to be a big fan. I’m not really sure if there’s a debate about it (because it is processed). Vital wheat gluten is essentially straight gluten, and it can be a game changer when it comes to fermentation, especially in a whole wheat bread like this. Vital wheat gluten is like your flour’s secret side kick, and it can make a world of a difference in your bread.

Vital wheat gluten makes up for some of the whole wheat flour’s lack of ability to form gluten. It helps create a stronger network, which means the dough can ferment better (trap more air, won’t overproof as quickly). The effects of this are drastic – you’ll notice the loaf is lighter and airier and that it rises taller.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe is high in hydration (that just means we add a lot of water/liquid). It has an approximate hydration of 88%. This amount of liquid is necessary to counter the effects of the bran and the germ, which absorb a lot of moisture. Otherwise, the loaf would be terribly dense and coarse, which is how many people think whole wheat bread just “is”.

Despite containing a lot of moisture, you will not feel much of a difference in the dough. The flour absorbs most of it, meaning that by the time shaping comes around the dough will hardly be sticky at all.

Mixing

For this recipe, I use a stand mixer to develop my dough. The main thing we want to look for when mixing/kneading any dough up front is a windowpane. This tells us that gluten has come together and that the dough will be able to hold in air. Using a lower speed on the mixer will create a more elastic (strong, tough, not stretchy) dough, while a higher speed will create extensibility (stretchy, loose). For a dough that is just right, aim for somewhere in the middle, speed 3-4 on a KitchenAid (if you think your mixer can handle it) or speed 3-4 o’clock on an Ankarsrum.

If you watch my video, you’ll notice that I used to use slightly higher speeds to get the dough to come together. Honestly, this worked, but now that I know more, I have changed my practice.

The other important thing to consider is your dough’s temperature. Try to make sure it doesn’t get above 78 F (26 C). If you notice the dough is taking too long in the mixer, give it a 10-15 minute rest and try again. Time will help it relax and finish developing.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). Then, you can shape it and let it double again. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

Shaping

Shaping sandwich bread is so easy. You can really shape it however you want, as long as the top is smooth and the seams are sealed. I like to turn the dough out, pat it into a rectangle, fold the outer thirds inward, then roll it into a log. Since the dough is stiff and well-fermented by this point, try to shape it smoothly (all-in-one go), otherwise the gluten will tighten up (tension) and you’ll have to give it a rest before trying again.

Butter Wash

Washing your loaf with butter helps keep the crust soft during baking. I also like to brush my loaves with butter after baking, for the best flavor and softness.

Baking Method: Temperature

For breads with milk, a lower baking temperature is better. Because milk contributes to the Maillard reaction, the bread will still brown fine in the oven. Your dough will rise and bake slowly, contributing to an even crumb. The low-and-slow bake will also keep the dough soft, as it is able to retain more moisture this way.

Baking Method: Steam

Since this is a sandwich bread – which is purposefully soft – you don’t have to remove the steam from the oven like you would for a crusty bread. It helps the dough stay soft, which leads to better expansion and texture. I use a pan of boiling water next to my dough, but you can use any method you like.

Suggested Timeline

Suggested Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

After the success of my beginner batter bread recipe, I wanted to create something with a similar concept. Let’s keep the long-fermentation, but build a completely different recipe.

I did just that with these corn muffins. Except, because of the cornmeal, it is hard to call this a beginner recipe. Since corn is gluten-free, the dough does not trap air in the same way that wheat does. Therefore, these muffins do not double in size. With a little trial and error, though, I think you will find these muffins worth your time. I have some tips that will help you find the success you’re looking for in this recipe.

What Is Cornbread?

Cornbread is a type of bread popular in the United States, particularly in the South. It is made from ingredients like flour, eggs, milk or buttermilk, baking powder, and sometimes sugar or honey for sweetness. It can be baked in a skillet, a muffin pan, or a baking dish. It is typically served as a side dish with meals such as: chili, barbecue, or fried chicken. It has a slightly crumbly texture and a light and sweet nutty flavor from the cornmeal. Inclusions such as jalapeños, cheese, or bacon can be added for fun and unique flavors.

What Is Meant By “Southern-Style”?

“Southern-Style” cornbread is a specific type of cornbread made with little to no flour (cornmeal is the star of the show) and without added sugar. The texture is a bit more gritty and nutty and the bread is not sweet in the slightest. Southern cornbread usually features buttermilk and may use bacon fat as a component of the recipe. It is also typically cooked in a preheated cast-iron skillet for added crispness along the edges.

What Is Unique About This Recipe?

This recipe is a mash-up of Southern cornbread (a quick bread) and long-fermented sourdough. Active sourdough starter is the leaven, meaning these muffins require fermentation time since they do not use chemical leavening (baking powder or soda). This recipe can even be made completely gluten-free by simply using a gluten-free sourdough starter. I added inclusions, onion and cheddar cheese, for an even better flavor and chose muffins over a preheated skillet for the simple fact that this batter needs time to rest and rise before it can be baked.

All The “Why’s”

Buttermilk

I use buttermilk, in combination with eggs, to add moisture to the batter. While milk is a suitable alternative, buttermilk adds a great tang that, in my opinion, really enhances the “Southern” flavor profile of this recipe.

Active Sourdough Starter

This recipe requires active sourdough starter, rather than discard. Let’s take a quick dive into why.

First and foremost, because this recipe is long-fermented, there is no chemical leavening (i.e. baking powder or soda). Our starter is doing the work needed to incorporate necessary air. This means we must use starter with yeast that are active.

But, once I mix the discard into the batter, won’t that feed the yeast and cause them to start multiplying again? Yes, it will, but not like we need them to. Yes, it will feed the yeast, but the yeast will be slow getting started since they were living in an inactive state. Yeast are what release CO2, which aerates your batter. You need them to be active and healthy in order for them to be able to do this properly.

But, couldn’t I just wait longer for them to properly multiply and aerate the dough? I do not recommend this. Why? Your starter also contains bacteria, which are responsible for fermenting the grains in your recipe. Usually this is flour, but in this recipe, it is cornmeal. The bacteria are multiplying at a much quicker rate than your sluggish yeast. They will not only power through all their food (cornmeal) before the yeast are finished aerating your batter (causing the dough to “overproof”), they will also create a very sour flavor in your bread.

That is why this is not a discard recipe. Use active starter. If you want to use discard instead, treat it like a discard recipe. Replace the active sourdough starter with sourdough discard. Add one teaspoon of baking soda (we can use soda due to the buttermilk and sourdough in the recipe) to the batter, then bake right away (just like regular cornbread or muffins).

Eggs

Eggs, alongside buttermilk, provide necessary moisture to the batter, which aids fermentation and keeps the baked muffins from drying out. More importantly, though, eggs create a fluffier, cake-like texture that could not be achieved with just any old liquid (like milk or buttermilk). Though I would not describe these muffins as “cake-like”, the eggs do help the texture overall. Last, the eggs (in addition to proper fermentation, of course) help these muffins to rise taller in the oven compared to other alternatives.

Butter

Butter is an absolutely essential component that keeps the muffins moist. While buttermilk and eggs provide moisture, fat helps retain this moisture through baking. I chose butter to compliment the flavors present from other ingredients in the recipe, but it could be replaced 1:1 with a neutral oil, if desired. Or, if you really want to maximize the “Southern” flavors in this recipe, use bacon grease instead.

Cornmeal

Now, we couldn’t have corn muffins without cornmeal, could we? The grain is what binds everything together and feeds/activates your starter. I use cornmeal as the one and only grain in this recipe, meaning I add no flour (besides what is in your sourdough starter). This is a classic characteristic of Southern cornbread. (Other types of cornbread use a 50/50 ratio of flour/cornmeal.)

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing). It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the muffins cannot ferment properly (salt slows fermentation). I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Inclusions

I chose to stuff these muffins with onions and cheese, which act as flavor-enhancers that, once again, contribute to the overall “Southern” flavor profile of the bread. While you can easily remove the inclusions from the recipe without harm, if you choose to replace them with something different, remember to think carefully about how the ingredients you want to add might affect fermentation. Bacon would be fine, but jalapeños would slow things down. Replacing the onion with extra cheese would work well, but adding tomatoes could throw off moisture. The choice is yours, just be careful.

Fermentation

Proper fermentation is essential to the perfect sourdough corn muffins; these muffins are simple and difficult to ferment all at once. The timing is similar to my beginner batter bread recipe (the baker’s percentages are the same), except may be extended slightly due to the eggs and onion in the batter, which can slow things down.

Cornmeal is a gluten-free grain, which means it cannot trap air in the same way that wheat can. Certain gluten-free grains do not rise much, if at all, and cornmeal is one of them. Because there is no added wheat flour in this recipe, there is hardly any rise that occurs before the final oven spring. Visual cues cannot be used to determine if these muffins are proofed properly; rather, a knowledge of the fermenting environment and timing is necessary. With these, I have never fermented them too long. The longer the better.

There is one visual cue you can use to help you know when these muffins might be ready to go into the oven: they will form a dome on top. When this happens, go ahead and bake them: they have fermented enough.

Baking Method

These bake at 425 F (220 C) for only fifteen minutes and can be enjoyed fresh from the oven. The high oven temperature helps provide the perfect oven spring and completes baking in no time.

Suggested Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

I am just a girl who cannot resist chocolate. And this delicacy? Absolutely no way. Chocolate bread with chocolate chips and tart, freeze-dried strawberries? Count me in.

Now, here’s the thing, if you’ve read my original post for country bread, maybe you noticed that I am still working on my technique for this style of bread. While I have a recipe that is well-fermented, soft and airy, with all the flavors my palate could ever dream of, I still do not feel like my skills are complete. And, that is the case with this recipe, too. I hope to update this post in the future, once my skills grow and I hone in on an even better technique. For now, though, I will share with you all the knowledge I do have, and a recipe with great texture and flavor.

What Is Country Bread?

Country bread is a French-inspired rustic loaf of sourdough bread. It can be shaped into a boule (round) or a batard (oval). This is the bread that most people simply call “sourdough” today. This bread was popularized in the early 2000’s by Chad Robertson, whose book, Tartine Bread, is the root for which all modern sourdough is based today.

This type of bread is made from a fairly wet dough, which easier to develop by hand. The long fermentation time allows gluten to come together, as well as provides the dough with most of its strength. It is baked at a high temperature with steam (for a fuller expansion) to achieve a sort of “explosion” in the oven, which gives the loaf a beautiful oven spring and interior.

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe makes the perfect dessert bread. It does not need a single spread; all the flavors are just right there in each slice. Though, if you did want to spread it with something, I highly recommend Nutella. Definitely a win.

I tried some new techniques with this one and I learned a lot from them. In this recipe, I employ an autolyse technique, though not a true autolyse (since it contains more than just flour and water), in order to let the dough come completely together and develop extensibility (starchiness; flexibility) before adding the starter. This step allows me to strengthen my dough and incorporate my mix-ins via lamination in the beginning stages of fermentation. I also incorporate an egg into the mix, which adds protein and structure. Altogether, I find the process of making this bread just as enjoyable as eating it.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that call for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Tightening Agents: Salt + Cocoa Powder

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. But, cocoa is also a tightening agent, and with both of these things, we risk a dough that is too strong. Both of these ingredients slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but are necessary to achieving the right flavors in this bread. Therefore, I reduce the amount of salt I use in this recipe from my usual 2% down to 1.5% to help loosen the dough. In addition, you will notice I do not use too much cocoa powder, only 3%, for the same reasons: to help keep a loose dough.

I had some comments about how there is simply not enough cocoa powder in this recipe. The truth is: it is all a matter of personal opinion. The more cocoa powder that is added, the tighter the dough becomes, which leads to a dough that is dense, hard to shape, and just does not bake up right. For this kind of bread, country bread, I think keeping the cocoa powder at a minimal is important due to the characteristics we are trying to achieve. For other kinds of bread, such as pan loaves and milk breads, my opinion is different, since the process and desired outcomes of the bread are different.

Brown Sugar

The purpose of the sugar here is to compliment the cocoa powder. Sugar affects fermentation, sometimes positively and sometimes negatively, but in this case positively. 5% sugar is enough to feed the yeast and give them a boost, since salt and cocoa powder restrain them. It is the perfect compliment to this bread, both for flavor and fermentation needs of the dough. While I use brown sugar, white, granulated sugar or honey should work just the same.

Hydration (And, Why The Egg?)

In this recipe, I use an egg as part of the hydration. The goal here is to add protein and structure to the dough, helping to produce a taller, more defined loaf of bread. Yes, it does add subtle richness, but I think that pairs well with everything else going on.

Eggs are about 75% moisture, so in this recipe I just count the whole egg as part of the hydration. It is an estimate, but altogether not a big deal, especially since the dough contains a bit more moisture, resting at approximately 80% hydration in total. Because of the naturally tight dough the ingredients of this recipe produce, I think it is important to add extra moisture in order to help counter this.

Water Over Milk

I cannot tell you how much I wanted to use milk instead of water in this dough. Just think of the magical combination of cocoa + sugar + milk! The end result can still be delicious, but milk simply does not pair well with artisan bread. It is yet again, another tightening agent, and causes the dough to stiffen and expand in a weird way, as well as leads to major cracking, a burnt crust, and a closed crumb. Milk-based breads are typically baked at much lower oven temperatures to prevent burning; everything about milk just does not go well with country bread. Therefore, water it is.

“Autolyse”

Autolyse, in quotes, because this is not a true autolyse. A true autolyse is simply the flour and water from the recipe, which is allowed to sit for a period of time before the sourdough starter and salt are added. For this recipe, I mix together all the ingredients except for the sourdough starter and salt. Why? The effect is essentially the same as a traditional autolyse: gluten development is initiated and the dough gains extensibility (flexibility) from this rest period. This means our dough is super stretchy and will pass a windowpane before fermentation even begins. This is especially important here, where there are so many tightening agents (cocoa, salt, even the egg).

Lamination

There are some things I have changed in this recipe since learning a lot more about bread and creating my original recipe video (which you can still find at the end of the recipe card). I originally included lamination as a means of incorporating inclusions near the beginning of bulk fermentation. I do not do this anymore. Here’s why: lamination is another means of building strength, or in other words: tightening the dough. We already have so much of that going on here! The dough becomes too tight, and the resulting loaf is too strong, with not enough extensibility. Instead, just skip the lamination and fold the dough instead. You can dump all the inclusions onto the top of the dough before its first fold (after the starter and salt are added), and simply layer them in with your folds.

Inclusions

I chose to use freeze-dried, rather than fresh, strawberries in this recipe. This is a personal choice due to the fact that I allow the strawberries to rest in the dough through folds and fermentation. Freeze-dried strawberries will moisten as they sit in the dough, and as they are baked in the bread. Fresh strawberries will provide extra moisture to the dough, which is not necessarily a problem, but may not hold up as well through fermentation and may affect baking.

I now prefer to chop my chocolate and strawberries very small (or use miniature chocolate chips). This helps better distribute the ingredients and keeps them from tearing the gluten strands that are developed through time. Once again, this is a personal choice; do as you wish.

Dough and Gluten Development

This dough is enriched, but minorly. The small amount of sugar, egg, and cocoa powder still allow gluten to come together and develop naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the work in our dough, aerating it and building strength. Since this dough includes so many tightening agents, we only need to perform two folds. The folds help to incorporate inclusions, build structure and layers, and help fermentation do its best work.

For this recipe, I aim for two to three folds, depending on how the dough is looking, and I space them out well. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough, but without taking away any more of our dough’s precious extensibility. You can do each set of folds a minimum of one hour apart, but up to two hours, though this fully depends on your fermenting environment. I ferment this dough in my warmer set to 75 F (23 C) for about nine to ten hours before shaping.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. This dough ferments more slowly than other doughs, so a warmer environment is better. It may take a very long time in temperatures below 75 F (23 C). Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold proof your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge after shaping, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 75 F, and bulk ferment it until it fills my 3.75 quart Glasslock bowl. This takes about nine hours, and I have never had this recipe overproof in the fridge at this temperature and time. But, if your environment is warmer, you will need to consider decreasing the percentage of rise you give the dough before you shape it.

Shaping

Since we are only making one loaf of bread, it is not necessary to pre-shape the dough. Simply turn it out, and shape it using your preferred method for a boule or batard before adding to your banneton.

It is important to be very gentle with the dough during this step, if you want to keep air bubbles intact, that is. If not, simply pat the dough all over after turning out, which will degass the dough and result in a more closed and even crumb.

Cold Proof

A cold proof is always an option to extend the baking timeline, which creates flexibility. I do usually cold ferment this dough due to the extended fermentation time, that way I can prepare it the day before and bake it whenever I want fresh bread the next day. If you make this recipe as an overnight dough, you may not want to cold proof (and, that works as well!). Simply let it rest for one to three more hours on the counter before baking, depending on the climate and how the dough is looking.

Scoring

I am super simple when it comes to scoring. You only need one score, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, to help this loaf expand without cracking all over. I am not about decorative scoring, but if you are, then go for it!

In my video, I teach you how to score your dough at the right angle for the most prominent ear, as well as how to do a five-minute score to improve expansion in the oven. In reality, if your dough is well-balanced, with enough extensibility, the loaf will expand just perfectly without scoring at the right angle or adding the extra score at five minutes.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. Since originally writing this recipe, I’ve increased the baking temperature even more. In my opinion, 500 F gives the dough the best “pop” in the oven, as well as a delicate thin and crispy crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. Therefore, I always use a Dutch oven for bakes like this (lid on for the first half of baking [steam], lid off second half [to firm up the crust]). Currently, that is my Challenger bread pan (which I absolutely love!).

In reality, you can open bake this bread, just make sure your oven has plenty of steam for the first twenty minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. Open-baking works best with electric ovens that do not have vents. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

Work Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

This bread is inspired by the unique, deep flavor of rye, a favorite in many parts of the world, made in the form of the common sourdough boule. I wanted to make a bread where rye was clear and prominent, but not too overbearing. I can already hear my German community screaming, “Too overbearing! Never.” But, in my part of the world, rye is not so common. I also wanted to incorporate flavors commonly paired with rye, hence the optional caraway, which is inspired by Czech rye. Here, I use 45% whole rye flour to balance the deep, heavy flavor of rye for the tastebuds of my North American surroundings, as well as keep the process at least somewhat similar to that of the ever-so-popular sourdough boule.

Rye’s Unique Characteristics

Rye flour does not function like wheat flour in any respect. Rye is very low in gluten, which means it can be very difficult to work with. It also means it does not ferment well, since the gluten is weak and struggles to hold in air. Whole rye paired with low gluten means a closed, yet even, crumb (or, at least, that is the most I have been able to achieve from it so far). Crumb preferences aside, we can still get a balanced flavor and soft texture in our bread.

Rye is also stickier than other flours and requires special consideration to technique and process. It is a favorite of our starter: bacteria love this grain; therefore, it has the potential to create an end result that is very sour. It is important to watch the bread closely and maneuver the dough with care, since the weak flour struggles to hold in air and the stickiness of the dough can make things difficult.

However, rye’s deep and nutty flavor is a real pleasure. Despite its unusual characteristics, rye bread is a pleasure to make and a joy to eat. The bread also has an increased shelf life, thanks rye!

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe does not skip on the rye flour. With a 45/55 combination of rye/wheat flour, rye’s deep, nutty flavor is very prominent. This recipe is very balanced, taking careful note of the effects of each ingredient. Additional water helps prevent the bread from becoming too dense, while the caraway seeds are a beautiful, Czech-inspired, pairing.

All The “Why’s”

Whole Rye Flour

Whole rye brings all of the deepest rye flavor to this recipe. Whole rye flour is equivalent to whole wheat flour in that it contains all parts of the grain (bran, germ, and endosperm), rather than just the endosperm (which is light rye flour). This means there will be a more pronounced rye flavor, darker color, and denser texture.

Rye flour is also low in gluten binding proteins, and using whole rye means we have the bran and germ to think of, which cut through gluten, making it even weaker than it already is. Less gluten means weaker structure, which means the dough cannot hold in air very well. This, in itself, leads to a more closed crumb, as well as a need to reduce fermentation time (otherwise the loaf would “overproof” and lose structure very quickly).

Fear not, I accommodate everything that rye brings to the table as much as possible. I do my best to reduce density and create as strong a loaf I can for the best fermentation. I also want to note that rye flour is stickier, meaning this dough will be noticeably sticker than other doughs since I use 45% rye flour in this recipe. With a little bit of water on your hands or work surface, though, the dough is still completely manageable.

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. In this recipe, this is especially important. We need to do everything we can to help trap air and create gluten. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent gluten-binding properties.

Vital Wheat Gluten

In addition to using a strong bread flour, I also add vital wheat gluten to the dough. In short, vital wheat gluten is basically straight gluten. Because rye flour lacks the ability to create a strong gluten network, adding a tablespoon of vital wheat gluten helps make up for some of this inability and works to help the dough come together better, which creates a more balanced loaf that can rise as well as possible, hold itself strong and tall in the oven, and avoid cracking during the baking process.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 85%. While this seems high, it is necessary to compensate for the amount of water absorbed by the whole rye flour. Rye flour is already a sticky flour and the extra water can make for an advanced working dough. But, with proper strength, fermentation, and handling techniques, this dough is completely manageable.

The extra water works to counteract the dense tendencies that rye typically brings to the table, resulting in a lighter bread. It also makes the dough more workable by hand, allowing for folds to still take place to help with dough development, which aids in the dough’s overall structure and rise. Read more about dough hydration here.

Molasses

I have added just a tiny bit of sugar in this recipe to nudge fermentation along. Despite the loaf not being able to ferment well (due to the weaker structure from the rye), it does need something to help nudge fermentation along, since rye flour actually slows yeast reproduction. The amount of sugar in this recipe (3%) is not enough to sweeten, or even create osmotic stress. It is just enough to feed the yeast in your starter so that they can keep up with the bacteria in your starter, who are very much enjoying that rye flour. This helps to create a more balanced bread, one that aerates (yeast) and ferments (bacteria) evenly. Bacteria that overproduce in a recipe risk creating an overly sour bread, or a bread whose structure is completely broken down before it has a chance to rise properly. While you could use sugar, honey, maple syrup, or barley malt in place of the molasses, I find the flavor of the molasses compliments the loaf well. Barley malt would be my second choice, followed by honey, and then sugar.

Caraway

Caraway is optional; its purpose is simply to compliment the rye. This is a classic Czech flavor combination, and may or may not be preferred, depending on your taste preferences.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is naturally weaker, I tend to work it more. This just helps ensure that the dough comes together, and that I get a beautiful rise in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). Therefore, I knead this dough upfront for eight minutes (which is longer than I usually do). The dough will not have a complete windowpane by this point, but should after the first rest. Then, after achieving a windowpane, we can let fermentation do the strengthening and structure the dough through folds.

Bulk Fermentation

Fermentation for this bread is going to be very different than your 100% white flour loaf. The dough will not be able to ferment as long as usual, due to the weaker structure. In fact, I cut fermentation time to almost half of what I usually do. This is all because of the rye.

Please remember that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Shaping

Since we are only making one loaf of bread, it is not necessary to pre-shape the dough. Simply turn it out, and shape it using your preferred method for a boule or batard before adding to your banneton.

Cold Proof

A cold proof is always an option to extend the baking timeline and create flexibility. I choose not to cold ferment this dough, simply because it is so easy to bake all in one day.

Scoring

I am super simple when it comes to scoring. You only need one score, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, to help this loaf expand without cracking all over. I do just this. It is very important to make sure you do not score too deep on this one, since the weak rye will not expand as prominently in the oven as a white flour bread would.

While I used to be picky about scoring angle to achieve the best ear, I now realize that 1) I do not love having one obnoxious piece of burnt crust that contrasts the rest of my loaf so obnoxiously and 2) you will still achieve an ear if all the steps are done correctly. While scoring parallel with the counter will help you gain an even more beautiful and prominent ear, I do not find it necessary. Just score the dough (or don’t, if you prefer a more rustic, cracked look).

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first twenty minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake this in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. Therefore, I always use a Dutch oven for bakes like this (lid on for the first half of baking [steam], lid off second half [to firm up the crust]). Currently, that is my Challenger bread pan (which I absolutely love!).

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.