Soft, chewy, yet slightly crisp. Perfect for spreads or sandwiches. A staple breakfast item in many parts of the world.

What Is A Bagel?

A bagel is a type of bread shaped like a ring, which has a dense, chewy interior and a slightly crisp, golden crust. The key to a bagel’s chewy texture and shiny crust is boiling before baking. This boiling step is a distinguishing feature of bagels, and sets them apart from other types of bread. After boiling, bagels can be topped with seeds (like sesame or poppy), dried minced onion, cinnamon sugar, or other ingredients before being baked. Bagels are often sliced horizontally and eaten with various spreads, such as cream cheese, or used as a base for sandwiches.

A Brief History Of Bagels

Bagels originated in the Jewish communities of Poland in the 17th century, first mentioned in 1610 as a gift for women after childbirth. They likely evolved from the Polish bread obwarzanek and were named from the Yiddish word “beygl,” meaning “bracelet” or “ring.” Eastern European Jewish immigrants brought bagels to North America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, where they became popular, particularly in New York City. The mass production of bagels began in the mid-20th century with the invention of automated bagel-making machines, making them widely available. Today, bagels are a global food staple, enjoyed with various toppings and fillings.

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe lands the perfect combination of crispy and chewy. The crust gives a light, but present, crisp, while the interior of the bagel has a beautifully soft texture – every bite boasting a delightful chew. As always, I have taken consideration to each and every ingredient in the recipe and created an incredible balance. Even the addition of sugar in the dough is incredibly specific with a defined purpose (and it is not to sweeten). They can be topped with anything your heart desires and are the perfect companion to any breakfast or sandwich fillings.

The “Why” Behind The Starter Build

Why Build A Starter (Levain) For This Recipe?

Though this is not a sweet bread recipe, I chose to utilize a sweet stiff starter anyway. A sweet stiff starter works to reduce the overall sour flavor in sourdough bread products. The specific percentage of sugar (around 10-15%) creates what is called “osmotic stress,” which limits bacterial cell regeneration. Together with the additional flour in the starter, it is possible to virtually eliminate the sour flavor in a recipe, which is what I have done here. Read more about sweet stiff starter here.

Stiff Starter

By giving the yeast more food (this means they can continue to eat, multiply, and produce CO2) and reducing the amount of water (bacteria favor wet climates), we can effectively reduce the amount of acidity in our starter at the same percentage of rise as a starter made with equal amounts of flour and water.

Sugar

This is one of the most important components of this levain – do not skip it! Sugar is a powerful tool. Added in low amounts, it feeds the yeast and speeds up fermentation. Added in high amounts, it dehydrates yeast cells and potentially stops fermentation altogether. Added in just the right amount, the yeast still thrive, but the bacteria suffer. 10-15% sugar in a recipe or levain creates something called “osmotic stress.” This stress to the bacteria limits their ability to reproduce, which limits acid buildup, thereby limiting overall sourness coming from the starter.

Temperature

In order to favor the yeast, I aim to keep this levain between 70-75 F (21-24 C) and use it when it has approximately doubled in size. Yeast produce most abundantly in these temperatures, while the bacteria in your starter (there are two types – lactic and acetic) favor temperatures both higher and lower than this. This specific temperature helps provide balance to the starter, which translates to how efficiently the starter ferments the bread and how mild the overall sour flavor is.

Optional Kneading

Have you ever heard of developing gluten in your starter? While it is not essential, kneading this starter for just a few minutes will help trap air, introducing oxygen and stimulating yeast growth. It also provides structure (by creating a slightly more elastic gluten network), which helps the levain rise and maintain peak more efficiently. 

The “Why” Behind The Dough and Process

Bread Flour

When working with stiff doughs like this one, gluten has a tougher time forming. This is because the decreased amount of water limits the mobility of gluten proteins, hindering the dough’s ability to form a strong network. Bread flour contains a higher percentage of protein, which aids in the bread’s ability to form gluten. I use King Arthur Bread Flour for its solid protein content, which is above 12%.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Barley Malt In The Dough

In my trials, I found the actual type of sugar used does not matter, but chose barley malt because it is the classic sweetener many swear by for bagels. While the use of barley malt in a commercial yeast-leavened bagel is to aid in fermentation, the purpose in a sourdough bagel is a little different. The specific amount used in this recipe is around 10% of the total flour, which is the amount needed to create osmotic stress on the bacteria in your starter. This specific percentage, combined with the low hydration of the dough, works together with the sweet stiff starter to reduce the overall sour flavor of the bagel.

In essence, barley malt is not intended to add sweetness to the dough, but rather reduce sourness. The end result is a mild, “normal” tasting bagel. The only time you should consider removing the barley malt is if you are intentionally going for a “sour” bagel. Other options/substitutions for the barley malt that yield the same effect include: white sugar, honey, and molasses. You could also try this recipe with maple syrup. 

Vital Wheat Gluten

I usually recommend vital wheat gluten for flours that are low in gluten, as it helps build necessary strength in the dough. But, for this dough, I found vital wheat gluten to be incredibly helpful in creating a bagel that rises taller in the oven. Because this dough is low in hydration, it gives even the good bread flour an exceptional boost. If you do not own vital wheat gluten, you can skip it. But, I do think the use of it is well worth it in this recipe. See the image below for a visual comparison of a bagel made with vital wheat gluten versus the same recipe made without it.

Low Hydration

Low hydration simply means “less water.” This is a stiff dough, and intentionally so. The stiff dough makes for a softer, denser bread. The “chew” of a bagel comes from the water bath, rather than the hydration itself, meaning that these bagels receive the perfect balance of soft crumb (from the low hydration) and chewy texture.

The low hydration of the dough also has one other bonus – reduced sourness. Stiff doughs (and starters, for that matter) do not encourage the reproduction of bacteria that release acids resulting in a sour flavor. In other words, the dough’s consistency works together with the barley malt to really hinder acid production, giving the bread a neutral flavor.

Mixing

For this recipe, we just need the dough to form a gluten network. This can be a difficult task in stiff doughs due to the lack of water (which makes it harder for gluten to form). Without enough gluten-binding proteins, the dough may struggle to form a gluten window, which allows opportunity for air to escape. This decreases the dough’s ability to rise to its fullest potential, resulting in a denser crumb and texture. Gluten must be developed through kneading and time; the more help it can get, the better.

Because of the low hydration, a low speed (speed two on a KitchenAid or two to three o’clock on an Ankarsrum) is all that is necessary, and the dough should be ready to rise in ten to fifteen minutes. Alternatively, the dough can be turned out onto the counter and kneaded by hand for the same amount of time.

Flour choice and vital wheat gluten also work together to aid in the development of gluten. Be sure to consider these factors when making your dough.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). Then, you can shape it and let it double again. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

Shaping

I use a pre-shape and a final shape for this recipe. The pre-shape gathers the sections of dough into a nice round, as well as tightens the outer skin so that it is smooth and even. After this is done, the gluten is tight, and needs a second to relax so that the dough can be stretched into a “ring” – the traditional bagel shape. The final shape does just this – it simply stretches the dough to the desired size of “ring” for that classic bagel look.

No Cold Proof

I found several recipes online that called for cold proofing bagels before boiling. Though I do this in my soft pretzel recipe, I did not find the results desirable in this bagel recipe. The bagels perform best and yield the most ideal flavor when they are left at room temperature to ferment. A cold dough will sink in the water bath, and may even stick to the bottom of your pot. The bagels may not expand properly and will be denser with an uglier final appearance. If you need to place your dough in the fridge to help with your baking timeline, do so just before or right after shaping. Then, let the bagels come to room temperature on the counter for at least one hour before boiling.

Water Bath

This step is essential to achieving the classic bagel chew. Bagels can be boiled anywhere from thirty seconds to two minutes per side – a longer boil creating a more pronounced chew in the bagel. I aim for forty seconds, but up to a minute, per side as my personal preference.

Barley Malt In The Water Bath

I include barley malt in the water bath, as I found it significantly improves the exterior color and shine on the finished bagel. It is not essential to include barley malt in the water bath for a good bagel, but makes for a noticeable improvement in the final look and even taste of the bagel. I tested honey as well, with the exact same results. Altogether, you can skip this addition if you prefer and still find yourself with a good bagel. Or, you can substitute the barley malt for honey, or even molasses, for similar results.

How To Top The Bagels With Anything

You can top and bake these bagels with anything you like! Common bagel toppings include: everything seasoning, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dried minced onion, garlic, cinnamon sugar, and more.

When the bagels come out of the oven, they are nice and wet, which is a great time to dunk them in their topping. If you find that your topping just isn’t sticking with the moisture from the boiled bagel, you can whisk together one egg white with one tablespoon of water until frothy, then brush it all over the outside of the bagel before dunking (or sprinkling) the bagel into (with) your topping of choice.

For peppers and cheese, you’ll want to dice up the pepper and pile it in the center, then top with sliced or shredded cheese. Note that if you add the cheese in the beginning, it will get dark and crispy during the twenty-five minute baking time. If you want it melty and gooey, add the cheese in the last five minutes of baking instead.

Baking Method

I tried several baking methods, including various temperatures and steaming methods. I found 425 F (220 C) with no steam to be the perfect sweet spot. Because the bagels were boiled, there is plenty of moisture on the exterior of the bagel to help it expand properly in the oven, meaning it is not essential to add steam. 425 F (220 C) gives a perfectly light crisp to the exterior, one that is not too pronounced or overbearing.

Suggested Timeline

Daytime Timeline

Overnight Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

If bread could dance, it would twist itself into a pretzel. It’s one of those treats meant for fun times, where memories are made with people galore. That’s why I just can’t – not – have a good soft pretzel recipe. A simple one; one that doesn’t require any fancy ingredients. Serve these alongside any occasion, or even just for yourself. From classic mustard dips to creative sweet glazes, soft pretzels are more than just twisted dough—they’re a blank canvas for your imagination.

What Is A Soft Pretzel?

A soft pretzel is a popular snack often enjoyed at sporting events, movie theaters, and amusement parks. They are made from a simple dough and characterized by a chewy and tender texture throughout. Their unique color comes from a bath in baking soda (or lye). Soft pretzels can be served plain or with a variety of toppings and dips, such as coarse salt, cinnamon sugar, cheese sauce, mustard, or caramel.

Why No Lye?

I wanted to make a pretzel recipe without lye for those of us who either: a) don’t keep lye in the house, but still want to make pretzels on a whim, b) have children and don’t want to worry about the hazard of working with lye while they’re around, or c) are completely freaked out by the idea of using lye in food.

Pretzels made with a baking soda bath have a soft, slightly chewy texture and a gentler exterior. The baking soda provides some alkalinity, which helps create the classic golden-brown crust, but the surface tends to be less crisp and less deeply browned compared to lye-bathed pretzels. These pretzels are milder in taste, making them an approachable option for those new to pretzel-making. The texture leans toward pillowy, with a less distinct snap when you bite into the crust.

Pretzels made with lye are absolute gold; however, these are a close second. One day, I will post a real German pretzel recipe. For now, though, I have little babies running around my house while I bake, and this recipe works just as well.

What I Love About This Recipe

Pretzels are so simple. They’re made from a basic dough with only five ingredients: flour, water, salt, starter, and a little butter. Not only are they fun to work with, they can also be the base for all of your pretzel dreams. Shape them however, coat them with whatever – your imagination is the limit. The dough is easy to make, easy to ferment, and easy to handle, and the golden brown-color is absolutely stunning.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Bread flour absorbs more moisture, so you’ll find that if you substitute this ingredient with all-purpose flour, the dough will be wetter and you may need to add more flour. I prefer bread flour in my stiff doughs because of its higher protein content, which helps the gluten bind. This is especially important in stiff doughs because the lack of water makes it more difficult for gluten to come together. Without gluten, the dough will not be able to trap air, and it will not rise properly. I use King Arthur Bread Flour, protein content about 12.7%, in any recipe that calls for bread flour (unless otherwise noted). Alternatively, you could use all-purpose flour and one to two tablespoons of vital wheat gluten in a pinch.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Butter

Butter (any kind of fat, really) is a tenderizer; it makes the dough fragile and soft. In this recipe, I only use a small amount, which is meant to keep the bread soft in the oven and after baking.

Low Hydration

The term “low hydration” simply means this is not a wet and sticky dough; it does not include as much moisture as other recipes. The approximate hydration is 60%. At this hydration, you’ll find the dough is soft, smooth, and firm (but still pliable). It may be slightly sticky but should not stick to the bowl of the stand mixer when kneading.

This consistency of the dough contributes a lot to the characteristics of the pretzel. For one, it allows the dough to be twisted and turned, then remain in a defined pretzel shape. It also contributes to a finer crumb and a softer, more tender texture.

The low hydration of the dough also has one other bonus – reduced sourness. Stiff doughs (and starters, for that matter) do not encourage the reproduction of bacteria that release acids resulting in a sour flavor.

Mixing

For this recipe, we just need the dough to form a gluten network. This can be a difficult task in stiff doughs due to the lack of water (which makes it harder for gluten to form). Without enough gluten-binding proteins, the dough may struggle to form a gluten window, which allows opportunity for air to escape. This decreases the dough’s ability to rise to its fullest potential, resulting in a denser crumb and texture. Gluten must be developed through kneading and time; the more help it can get, the better. Using a flour with a high protein content can be helpful. Ten to twelve minutes in a stand mixer or by hand should do, and if your flour is good, time will do the rest. Follow your stand mixer’s directions for a stiff dough, generally a low speed is all you need, and you will be on your way! This recipe does not require any folds.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). Then, you can shape it and let it double again. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

Shaping

I use a pre-shape and a final shape for this recipe. As the pretzels are being rolled out, the gluten begins to tighten. By letting the dough rest after rolling into a long cylinder, the gluten is given a chance to relax and the pretzels are much easier to form into their final shape. 

Cold Proof

I place the shaped pretzels in the refrigerator for at least 30-60 minutes before boiling and baking. The reason for this is two-fold. First, they become incredibly easy to handle when it comes time for the baking soda bath. Second, they do not become as puffy and have, in my opinion, a more beautiful oven spring and final appearance.

Baking Soda Bath

Instead of a lye bath, I give these pretzels a baking soda bath to achieve the classic golden-brown color and “pretzel” taste. Let’s talk about each element of the bath:

Baking Soda

Baking soda is the ingredient that gives these pretzels their unique color and taste. It’s an alkali, similar to lye, only not as strong, meaning the pretzels will be a more toned-down version of a pretzel made with lye (not quite as dark, not quite as deep of a flavor, not quite the same texture). I use a lot of baking soda, which I find necessary to get the best color, texture, and flavor. (Just a few teaspoons isn’t going to do much for us.)

Baking soda can be a little bit messy. Be sure to add it to the water before the honey, otherwise it will boil over your pot. Also, be sure not to leave the pretzels in the bath for too long, otherwise you’ll notice they start to taste metallic-y. Thirty seconds seems to be the sweet spot.

Honey

I include a small amount of honey in the pot with the baking soda. This ingredient is optional; however, it also contributes to browning on the exterior of the pretzels.

Simmering Water

For this recipe, I use simmering water, which helps the baking soda/honey dissolve and works with the baking soda to give the pretzels a their subtly chewy exterior.

Coarse Salt

A coarse salt not only adds a visual appeal to the pretzels, but also creates a stark contrast in texture and enhances the deep flavor of the pretzels.

Baking Method

I use a compromise of high and low temperatures to achieve the best oven spring, color, and texture. The higher temperature ensures a beautiful oven spring, while the lower temperature finishes cooking the pretzels all the way through.

I do want to note that we don’t need to use steam. The main purpose of steam is to soften the dough, allowing for a full expansion in the oven. However, we have enough moisture leftover from the baking soda bath to ensure the pretzels rise properly without the help of anything extra.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Timeline

Overnight Timeline

Work Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

This is a simple loaf of bread packed full of inclusions that breaks so many sourdough “rules.”

I am very much a different baker than I was when I first started making this recipe. I question myself, now, as I update all the “why’s” for you. But, the truth is, it works. The method used here is simple, yet efficient. It’s the way I learned to make bread back in the very beginning, and it’s the way I made bread for quite a while. However, it’s very different from the way I make bread now.

Despite my change and growth as a baker, this is a recipe people ask for again and again. What is it about soft and tender bread, packed with the bacon-jalapeño-cheddar triage? There must be something, because it seems to be one recipe that disappears every single time I make it.

What I Love About This Recipe

Flavor, flavor, flavor. This loaf has an absolutely divine flavor. Why stop at jalapeño-cheddar when adding bacon makes it that much better? Look, I know what you’re thinking, but as a Texas gal, bacon is prized. It’s a common delicacy. We put it in everything. So, of course we have to have it in our bread, too. This loaf has been a winner with everyone that has had the pleasure of tasting it; I hope you love it as much as we Texas folks do.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Bread flour absorbs more moisture, so you’ll find that if you substitute this ingredient with all-purpose flour, the dough will be wetter and you may need to add more flour. I prefer bread flour in my stiff doughs because of its higher protein content, which helps the gluten bind. This is especially important in stiff doughs because the lack of water makes it more difficult for gluten to come together. Without gluten, the dough will not be able to trap air, and it will not rise properly. I use King Arthur Bread Flour, protein content about 12.7%, in any recipe that calls for bread flour (unless otherwise noted).

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Water

Water is the main source of hydration in this recipe, bringing the dough together as well as activating enzymes that provide food for yeast. This is a stiff dough, so we need just enough of it to bring the dough together, but not so much that the dough is a sticky mess. It may be a good idea to hold a little of the water back if this is your first time making this recipe. A stiff dough is necessary to hold the defined shape of the braid.

Milk

Milk adds softness, density, and a subtle creamy flavor. I find a touch of it in this recipe to pair well with the richness of the bacon and the bite of the jalapeño.

Sourdough Starter

You need more active starter than usual in this recipe. That’s because jalapeño and yeast don’t mix. As of this moment, I am not sure of the exact reason why, but it’s likely the same reason why you don’t want to rub your eyes after dicing the jalapeño. It burns! By adding more starter, we can keep this dough moving as it needs to.

At one point, I did try to ferment this dough in a warm environment in order to speed things up and I do NOT recommend this! In warm temperatures (80’s) homofermentative lactic acid bacteria (LAB) are favored, a kind of bacteria that breaks down flour and creates extensibility. Though the acid they release is neutral tasting (that is, until there’s an abundance of it), this extensibility will make the braid hard to shape, as you’ll find the braid wants to seep into itself and lose its form. These homofermentative LAB also break down the gluten structure and reproduce faster than yeast in their ideal climate, leading for a bread that’s more likely to overproof before it’s fully proofed.

Inclusions

I use a LOT of inclusions in this recipe. Flavor is absolutely my goal here. Bacon, diced jalapeños, and cheddar cheese create the epitome of Southern taste.

Low Hydration

The term “low hydration” simply means this is not a wet and sticky dough; it does not include as much moisture as other recipes. The approximate hydration is 65%. At this hydration, you’ll find the dough is soft, smooth, and firm (but still pliable). It may be slightly sticky but should not stick to your hands or the counter when kneading.

This consistency allows the dough to hold its shape without help, necessary for a braided loaf. It also contributes to a finer crumb and a softer, more tender texture, while holding all the inclusions in place (no leaking out the bottom of the bread).

The low hydration of the dough also has one other bonus – reduced sourness. Stiff doughs (and starters, for that matter) do not encourage the reproduction of bacteria that release acids resulting in a sour flavor. In other words, the dough’s consistency helps give the bread a neutral flavor.

Mixing

For this recipe, we just need the dough to form a gluten network. This can be a difficult task in stiff doughs due to the lack of water (which makes it harder for gluten to form). Without enough gluten-binding proteins, the dough may struggle to form a gluten window, which allows opportunity for air to escape. This decreases the dough’s ability to rise to its fullest potential, resulting in a denser crumb and texture. Gluten must be developed through kneading and time; the more help it can get, the better. Using a flour with a high protein content can be helpful.

I generally develop this dough by hand, spending about twenty-five minutes kneading it. Alternatively, you can use a stand mixer on a low speed to mix and knead this dough. Follow your stand mixer’s directions for a stiff dough, generally a low speed is all you need, and you will be on your way! Due to the stiff nature of the dough, it cannot be stretched (maybe one time an hour or two into bulk fermentation), meaning that kneading like this is a must. This recipe does not require any folds.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). Then, you can shape it and let it double again. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

Shaping

Shaping is done all in one fell-swoop. I divide the dough, roll it out, and braid it. If the dough was fermented appropriately (not too hot) it should be stiff enough that it will not mesh into itself. If the gluten begins to tighten, a twenty minute rest will relax it enough that you should be able to finish the job.

Egg Wash

This helps give the loaf its beautiful golden brown color. Without the egg wash, the loaf would be lacking in color and shine.

Baking Method

The temperature of 425 F (220 C) allows for a beautiful oven spring and exterior browning, while also perfectly cooking the interior, melting the cheese, and softening the jalapeños.

Suggested Timeline

Daytime Timeline

Overnight Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Talk about focaccia with a twist! This recipe is inspired by King’s Hawaiian Ham and Swiss Sliders, except – make it focaccia.

The focaccia gives this recipe an even more savory flavor compared to Hawaiian rolls. Hawaiian rolls are enriched with butter, eggs, milk, and sugar, which creates a sweet, rich, creamy, tender roll. Focaccia is simple: flour, water, salt, sourdough starter. Focaccia is just bread – not sweet, rich, tender bread. Because I haven’t used enriched bread, there isn’t actually any hint of sweet in this dish. The butter sauce soaks into the dough as it bakes and packs everything with flavor. Meanwhile, the ham and Swiss create the meal by adding protein, which make this focaccia more filling.

What Is Focaccia?

Focaccia is a type of Italian bread known for its dimpled surface, which helps infuse olive oil and seasonings throughout the bread. It is similar to pizza dough, but typically thicker and softer. Focaccia can be enjoyed plain or with various toppings such as olives, tomatoes, onions, or cheese (or, in this case, ham and Swiss). It’s a versatile bread that can be served as an appetizer, snack, or alongside a meal.

What I Love About This Recipe

When you pack carbs with protein, it’s nearly a meal-in-one. This low-fuss dinner creates balance between making a meal from scratch and time spent in the kitchen. With focaccia, it is nearly impossible to go wrong. This focaccia recipe is second only to my bacon focaccia.

All The “Why’s”

Flour Choice

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. A strong flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently.

Recently, I’ve been working with Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour over my usual King Arthur Bread Flour. It is fresh and contains more of the bran and germ from the wheat kernel than other flours, which adds incredible flavor to my bread. I’ve been eager to experiment with and dive into a world of better-for-you and better-tasting sourdough baked goods, and this has been a wonderful start.

After several wins and fails, I’ve finally discovered how to make this flour fit my typical sourdough bread-making routine. Because it is much fresher than what you can buy on grocery store shelves, it has (what is called) increased enzymatic activity. Enzymes, namely amylase, transform complex sugars into simple sugars that feed yeast. This happens in grocery-store white bread, but at a much slower rate than with fresh flour. Because Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour contains more enzymatic activity, yeast are consuming sugars and multiplying at a much faster rate, increasing the speed of fermentation. To compensate for the faster fermentation, I reduce the amount of stater I use in my recipe by 5% (of the total weight of the flour). In addition, due to the increased percentage of bran and germ, the flour itself can absorb more water, which means I can increase the amount of water I use by 5% as well.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 86%, if you’re using Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour. This is a high hydration recipe, meaning we are working with a fairly wet dough. While loose doughs can sometimes be harder to manage, this is not so with focaccia (at least in my opinion) because we do not have to worry about handling the dough for anything difficult, only to provide some structure through folds. The high hydration adds to the extensibility of the dough, opening the crumb if handled appropriately, and helps create a soft, light texture in the baked bread.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your bread completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic bread, which just means the end result will be taller, sometimes with a more closed crumb. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter bread, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

For this recipe, I aim for four folds, spaced a minimum of thirty minutes apart. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold proof your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches a 50% size increase after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, be sure to watch the dough and consider decreasing the percentage rise as needed for your environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 6 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take much longer, a minimum of 8 hours. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 4-5 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 2 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Note the decreased fermentation period for bulk fermentation. I only ferment this dough to 50% size increase so that I can have a longer final proof. I like to let the dough rest in the pan, untouched, for a good amount of time before baking.

Shaping

Focaccia is beautiful in that it requires no shaping efforts. Simply dump the dough into the desired baking dish, lightly stretching if necessary. 

Cold Proof

I stick this dough in the refrigerator, overnight, after shaping. Though placing the dough in the fridge isn’t necessary, I find it creates a deeper flavor (your starter’s bacteria at work!) and adds flexibility to the baking timeline.

Room Temperature Dough

It is better not to bake the dough from cold. Instead, let it continue to rest and puff up on the counter before dimpling and baking. A room temperature dough is essential to obtaining the proper oven spring. The combination of room temperature dough + a very hot oven will create an exploding effect that will help the bread expand and create a beautiful open and even crumb.

Because of the shortened bulk fermentation, we can watch the dough in the baking dish to tell when it is ready. I generally proof this dough on the counter for 6-8 hours (at 70 F, 21 C) after removing it from the refrigerator before dimpling and baking.

Butter Sauce

In place of olive oil, I’ve used the classic butter sauce from the original King’s Hawaiian Ham and Swiss Slider recipe. This sauce is made of melted butter, dijon mustard, onion powder, poppy seeds, and Worcestershire sauce. The butter, for its nonstick properties is most important; everything else is for flavor. I spread this flavorful sauce all over the bottom of the pan (not the sides!) and all over the focaccia dough before I leave it for the final rise. (Spreading it on the sides may result in burning in the oven). Do not be shy! The sauce absorbs right into the focaccia dough as it bakes. Lots of sauce = lots of flavor. Use it all!

Toppings

This recipe is meant to be like a ham and Swiss slider; therefore, I’ve chosen ham and Swiss as the topping. Simple, yet all you need.

Ham

The key is to enough ham to make a meal out of the dish (or don’t, it’s completely up to you), but not so much ham that it is overpowering or that it weighs down the focaccia in the oven. I use one boneless ham steak, which weighs between .75 to .9 pounds. 

Swiss

While (in my opinion) Swiss cheese is the perfect compliment to the flavors in this dish, you can use any cheese you like. After the focaccia has baked for thirty minutes (it should be cooked through and nicely browned), the cheese can be added and the focaccia baked again until the cheese is melted to your preference. Adding the cheese in the beginning will result in a very dark, maybe even burnt, cheese and crunchy texture.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. Though I would prefer to bake my focaccia at 500 F (260 C), I find it burns those delicate air bubbles before the rest of the loaf is baked. Therefore, I chose a temperature of 450 F (230 C) to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, while also reducing burnt air bubbles, yet still producing a lightly crisp end result.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

All-In-One-Day Timeline

Other Variations To Try

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

To be honest, this whole combination was a complete accident. One afternoon, I was planning to make a spinach and artichoke focaccia, except I did not have the ingredients. Thinking I was going to be able to go to the store before my focaccia dough was ready, I started a dough and then, well, did not make it to the store. Now I had dough, but what to do with it?

Having just finished building a recipe for loaded bialy, I was still obsessing about the flavor combination. But a focaccia isn’t a bialy, so how do I make it work? 

The 35 lb tub of bacon grease my husband brought home from work the other day rolled its eyes at this question and barked, “Use me!” from across the room. “Of course!” I thought. Let’s replace the olive oil with bacon grease. And that is where this recipe began.

Since then, I made this recipe several more times to make sure everything was on point. My father-in-law sent me a text in reply to a sample my husband sent him, saying “If you decide to make the bacon focaccia bread again, let me know. I will buy the whole loaf.” This bread has never lasted more than thirty minutes after coming out of the oven.

What Is Focaccia?

Focaccia is a type of Italian bread known for its dimpled surface, which helps infuse olive oil (or, in this case: bacon grease) and seasonings throughout the bread. It is similar to pizza dough, but typically thicker and softer. Focaccia can be enjoyed plain or with various toppings such as olives, tomatoes, onions, or cheese (or, for this recipe: bacon, ranch seasoning, and cheddar cheese). It’s a versatile bread that can be served as an appetizer, snack, or alongside a meal.

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe is packed with protein and animal fat, as well as so much flavor. This low-fuss dinner creates balance between making a meal from scratch and time spent in the kitchen. With focaccia, it is nearly impossible to go wrong. This is absolutely my favorite focaccia recipe yet.

All The “Why’s”

Flour Choice

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. A strong flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently.

Recently, I’ve been working with Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour over my usual King Arthur Bread Flour. It is fresh and contains more of the bran and germ from the wheat kernel than other flours, which adds incredible flavor to my bread. I’ve been eager to experiment with and dive into a world of better-for-you and better-tasting sourdough baked goods, and this has been a wonderful start.

After several wins and fails, I’ve finally discovered how to make this flour fit my typical sourdough bread-making routine. Because it is much fresher than what you can buy on grocery store shelves, it has (what is called) increased enzymatic activity. Enzymes, namely amylase, transform complex sugars into simple sugars that feed yeast. This happens in grocery-store white bread, but at a much slower rate than with fresh flour. Because Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour contains more enzymatic activity, yeast are consuming sugars and multiplying at a much faster rate, increasing the speed of fermentation. To compensate for the faster fermentation, I reduce the amount of stater I use in my recipe by 5% (of the total weight of the flour). In addition, due to the increased percentage of bran and germ, the flour itself can absorb more water, which means I can increase the amount of water I use by 5% as well.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 86%, if you’re using Hayden Flour Mills Artisan Bread Flour. This is a high hydration recipe, meaning we are working with a fairly wet dough. While loose doughs can sometimes be harder to manage, this is not so with focaccia (at least in my opinion) because we do not have to worry about handling the dough for anything difficult, only to provide some structure through folds. The high hydration adds to the extensibility of the dough, opening the crumb if handled appropriately, and helps create a soft, light texture in the baked bread.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your bread completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic bread, which just means the end result will be taller, sometimes with a more closed crumb. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter bread, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

For this recipe, I aim for four folds, spaced a minimum of thirty minutes apart. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold proof your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches a 50% size increase after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, be sure to watch the dough and consider decreasing the percentage rise as needed for your environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 6 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take much longer, a minimum of 8 hours. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 4-5 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 2 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Note the decreased fermentation period for bulk fermentation. I only ferment this dough to 50% size increase so that I can have a longer final proof. I like to let the dough rest in the pan, untouched, for a good amount of time before baking.

Shaping

Focaccia is beautiful in that it requires no shaping efforts. Simply dump the dough into the desired baking dish, lightly stretching if necessary. 

Cold Proof

I stick this dough in the refrigerator, overnight, after shaping. Though placing the dough in the fridge isn’t necessary, I find it creates a deeper flavor (your starter’s bacteria at work!) and adds flexibility to the baking timeline.

Room Temperature Dough

It is better not to bake the dough from cold. Instead, let it continue to rest and puff up on the counter before dimpling and baking. A room temperature dough is essential to obtaining the proper oven spring. The combination of room temperature dough + a very hot oven will create an exploding effect that will help the bread expand and create a beautiful open and even crumb.

Because of the shortened bulk fermentation, we can watch the dough in the baking dish to tell when it is ready. I generally proof this dough on the counter for 6-8 hours (at 70 F, 21 C) after removing it from the refrigerator before dimpling and baking.

Bacon Grease

Bacon is a Southern obsession, and many cooks in my part of the world save their bacon grease for cooking purposes. Using bacon grease in this recipe not only enhances the flavor by 10,000%, it also paves the way for another use for bacon grease: baking.

In this recipe, I replace olive oil with a whole bunch of bacon grease. Bacon grease both coats the pan and gets dimpled into the focaccia. During the baking and cooling process, the focaccia absorbs all of that grease, creating a stunningly enhanced bacon flavor.

Toppings

This recipe is inspired by loaded bialy, which was inspired by bacon-ranch loaded fries. Bacon, ranch, and cheddar are what make up this to-die-for flavor profile.

Bacon

I love to pack the top of my focaccia with bacon. It’s okay if the bacon is fresh and a little greasy. The grease will absorb into the dough, enhancing the flavor. You want enough bacon to get a bit in every bite, but not so much that it completely weighs down the focaccia (howbeit, I find that hard to do). Though I like to cook my bacon crispy, make it however you like. Just make sure the pieces are small enough to be dimpled into the dough.

Ranch

This is included for flavor! You can use pre-bought powdered ranch seasoning or your own homemade ranch seasoning. It just needs to be in dried, powdered form. I’ve found you don’t need to be shy on the ranch seasoning with this recipe (as is the case with some other recipes), as the focaccia is so thick that a small sprinkle of seasoning will go unnoticed.

Sour Cream

Now this is the interesting one, but it really does make the whole bread. For this recipe, I pipe sour cream into the bread. You read that right. I poke holes all over the bread and fill them up with sour cream. Doing this creates a contrast in texture and balances the richness from the bacon. I think this is the final touch for me, the thing that keeps me scarfing down this focaccia. Do this at the end of baking, right before you top it with cheddar cheese.

Cheddar Cheese

I find that cheddar cheese pairs well with the flavors here; however, you can use any cheese you like. The key is to add the cheese at the end of baking, making sure it gets nice and melty, but not overdone.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. Though I would prefer to bake my focaccia at 500 F (260 C), I find it burns those delicate air bubbles before the rest of the loaf is baked. Therefore, I chose a temperature of 450 F (230 C) to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, while also reducing burnt air bubbles, yet still producing a lightly crisp end result.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

All-In-One-Day Timeline

Other Variations To Try

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why was it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with its filling. Fresh from the oven, it’s chewy, yet soft, with a subtly crisp crust and flavor blast in the middle. It really is best the first day, even the first couple of hours.

The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many. It is traditionally stuffed with onions and topped with poppy seeds, though this recipe gives the filling a creative spin.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

What I Love About This Recipe

This has to be my favorite bialy variation so far. Every batch of bialy I made when developing this recipe was demolished within the very same hour it was baked. When fresh, the bialy is still lightly crisp and not obnoxiously chewy, and everything is still warm, making for a super satisfying snack or meal (we like to eat these for brunch).

This recipe was actually the suggestion of my babysitter, who adores loaded fries. The ingredients here are based off of Sonic’s Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries: crispy fries topped with bacon, ranch, and lots of cheese. Here, I use cream cheese to bind everything together, and ranch seasoning for the ranch flavor. The filling is so flavorful; I could make a cheese ball out of it and win appetizer of the year. Pair it with bialy and you have a match made in heaven!

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of my bialy recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C), take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in cornmeal (just like an English muffin) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

The Filling

This recipe was inspired by Sonic’s Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries. This filling is loaded with bacon, cheddar, and the perfect amount of ranch seasoning. Cream cheese holds everything together, and chives are added for color and garnish. I could honestly just eat the filling on it’s own, though it gets a major upgrade when baked with homemade bread, which is perfectly crisp, soft, and chewy right out of the oven.

Cheddar Cheese

Adding extra cheddar cheese at the end of baking simply takes this recipe to the next level. It enhances both flavor and appearance; the perfect final touch.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why was it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with its filling. Fresh from the oven, it’s chewy, yet soft, with a subtly crisp crust and flavor blast in the middle. It really is best the first day, even the first couple of hours.

The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many. It is traditionally stuffed with onions and topped with poppy seeds, though this recipe gives the filling a creative spin.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

It’s Time For Something Sweet

Some prefer savory, while others prefer sweet, so I’ve made it a priority to accommodate both in this bialy series. In this recipe, blueberries mesh with lemon and sweet cream cheese to create this heavenly take on bialy. Because bialy is unenriched, crispy, and chewy, this recipe is unlike other sweet bread recipes, which tend to be tender, rich, and fluffy (due to the addition of butter and eggs). Here, you’ll find an artisan-style bread with a pop of sweet blueberry filling, enhanced with a lemon glaze.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of my bialy recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C), take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in rice flour (instead of cornmeal, like bialy normally is) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

Rice Flour Over Cornmeal

The purpose of cornmeal during bialy’s initial shape is to make handling easier during the final steps of the process. I chose to replace cornmeal with rice flour simply because I did not feel gritty cornmeal was the right pair for a sweet bialy. Rice flour is finer, very neutral in flavor, and gluten-free: making it the perfect alternative coating to cornmeal. Coating in rice flour has the same effects: the flour does not absorb into the bread, which eases bread handling and prevents sticky bialy during the final shape. A little bit of rice flour goes a long way; you do not need a heavy dusting to thoroughly coat the bialy.

Blueberry Cream Cheese Filling

Sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla enhance the cream cheese in this sweet bialy recipe. Originally, I hoped to include an egg yolk in the mixture as well, but (because bialy is baked at such a high oven temperature) the custard just did not cook right.

Rather than mixing blueberries into the cream cheese, I choose to add a few to the top of each bialy. While either method works, bialy does not need a ton of filling, and since I’m not dicing the blueberries into chunks, doing it this way helps ensure I get just the amount of blueberries I want.

Lemon Glaze

Because of the way bialy is made, the pop of flavor is solely in the middle. Since this is a sweet take on bialy, I wanted there to be a sweet flavor profile throughout – hence, a lemon glaze. This glaze is meant to add a final touch to the appearance and overall flavor profile of the bialy. Lemon perfectly compliments the filling, while the glaze itself adds sweetness to an otherwise plain artisan bread.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why was it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with its filling. Fresh from the oven, it’s chewy, yet soft, with a subtly crisp crust and flavor blast in the middle. It really is best the first day, even the first couple of hours.

The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many. It is traditionally stuffed with onions and topped with poppy seeds, though this recipe gives the filling a creative spin.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

What Makes A Jalapeño Popper?

Jalapeño poppers are very popular where I am from. I did not even realize there were so many interpretations of a jalapeño popper until… the internet. As I know it, a “jalapeño popper” is simply a jalapeño with which the insides have been removed and replaced with cream cheese. Everything is wrapped in bacon and grilled outdoors until the bacon is cooked dark and the jalapeño is soft. This recipe takes inspiration from this version of a jalapeño popper, utilizing jalapeño, cream cheese, and bacon to create a delectable bialy filling.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of my bialy recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C), take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in cornmeal (just like an English muffin) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

The Filling

In place of the traditional onion filling, I use jalapeños, bacon, and cream cheese to mimic the flavors of a jalapeño popper. To make the filling, I fry diced bacon in a skillet until it starts to grease, then add diced jalapeños and cook until the bacon is crispy and the jalapeños are soft. I drain the grease from the mixture as much as possible, then mix with softened cream cheese until everything is smooth and well incorporated.

Feel free to play around with the cooking method to suit your taste and texture preferences. You do not have to cook the jalapeño if you do not want to. Or, you could roast the jalapeños in the oven with the bacon until everything is cooked to your liking before dicing and adding to the cream cheese.

If you are into appearances, this filling does still release some grease in the oven, which may affect the top of your bialy, depending on how much grease you were able to drain and how well you formed the center of the bialy (so it does not pop up in the oven and spill filling out of the center hole). Though this is a bit of a bummer, I tend to lean toward taste over appearance – and this jalapeño popper bialy is all about flavor.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

I made this to be the ultimate beginner loaf of bread. It is simple, yet still yields a great bread that is naturally leavened with sourdough starter. This one is for those who need some relief from the complexities of sourdough, and are looking for something they can win. If this is you, you’re in the right place.

What Is Batter Bread?

I have found “batter bread” can mean something different to every person. For the purposes of this recipe, batter bread is a type of bread made of simple ingredients through a simple, no-knead process. A batter is mixed, left to rise, and then baked. Extensive kneading or folds are not required because gluten development is not prioritized for the crumb and texture of the final baked product. The end result is a moist and rustic loaf of bread, great for sandwiches or eating on its own!

What I Love About This Recipe

This bread is much easier to make than traditional sourdough. It requires three steps: mix, ferment, bake. This recipe results in a loaf that is incredibly moist and slightly sour (depending on the state of your starter), which means if you are someone looking for a true sourdough flavor in their bread, this will provide it for you! Best of all, this recipe is fail-safe. It’s the perfect recipe for testing out a new starter, to see if it is ready for more advanced projects. Beginner and experienced sourdough bakers alike will enjoy this loaf!

All The “Why’s”

A Butter-Laiden Loaf

I cover my pan and the top of my loaf with butter. The butter not only makes my pan incredibly non-stick, but it adds a rich, decadent flavor to the bread.

Bread Flour

The purpose of this recipe is to be incredibly simple, yet still yield a delicious end result. For the best results possible, choose a bread flour with a protein content of at least 12%. The higher protein content in the flour will help the gluten come together better, which is important in this recipe because we do not take measures to develop the dough at all. The naturally-developing gluten from the high-quality flour will help prevent the loaf from collapsing before it fully doubles in size. I use King Arthur Bread Flour (protein content 12.7%) in this recipe.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but this is something we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Honey

The small amount of honey acts as food for the yeast in your starter, speeding up fermentation slightly, which I think can be helpful in a beginner recipe like this one. It does not sweeten the loaf, and can be eliminated if desired.

Starter To Flour Ratio

This recipe includes a large percentage of starter – 50% of the total flour in the recipe! (For comparison, a normal sourdough bread recipe includes only 20% starter.) The large amount of starter means your bread will ferment faster than other recipes, so it is not necessary to ferment the dough for near as long as you normally would. This percentage of starter can also contribute to a slightly sour flavor in this bread, depending on your sourdough starter care and maintenance routine.

Hydration

This recipe has a moderately high hydration, resting at approximately 87%. This amount of water in this recipe is a good amount – not too high, but not too low – for helping gluten come together with ease. It also contributes to the final light and moist texture of the baked bread.

Mixing Time

Since we do not take the time to develop structure through folds, mixing is an important step that will help the dough rise to its fullest potential. While not essential, a longer mix means more elasticity, which means the dough can more readily hold in air bubbles and rise to double in size without worry of collapsing. After all of the flour is incorporated into the batter, try to mix the dough for a solid three to five minutes for best results. This small consideration, in addition to the right flour, will develop the dough just enough for success.

Fermentation

This dough is easy to ferment. Simply watch the dough until it reaches the top of the container, which should be exactly double in size. There are no folds and there is no refrigeration step, which means it is even easier than ever to tell when this bread is ready to bake.

It is important to note that fermentation times vary significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer.

Here are some general guidelines to help you with approximate timing for this recipe:

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 6 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take much longer, a minimum of 8 hours, and sometimes more. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 4 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 2-3 hours to complete fermentation.

(Lack Of) Dough Development

Due to the lack of dough development (folds, kneading), the dough is weaker. It will not hold in large air bubbles, will not have the ability to hold its own shape, and will not have an oven spring. In fact, you will notice bubbles popping through the surface (air escaping) due to the weak dough. This bread takes the shape of the pan it is placed in and rises to the top, but cannot hold any more fermentation than this since strength is not present to keep the loaf from collapsing. This is why the proper sized pan is essential, as the batter (before fermenting) should fill the pan exactly halfway.

Baking Method

This loaf can simply be baked in an open oven without steam or any special equipment, such as a Dutch oven. The loaf itself contains a fairly high percentage of water, which keeps it moist enough to rise appropriately, though it does not have a large oven spring due to the lack of development.

Suggested Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Crust that shatters like glass, with an airy, open interior. That’s what this is: glass bread. This bread is similar to ciabatta, but with a completely different origin. Isn’t it interesting how two places can come up with a near-similar style of bread?

I want to preface this recipe with a disclaimer: I feel that I can do better. It has been over a year since I originally published this recipe, and I have grown a lot as a baker since then. I have had so many compliments on how simple this recipe is, and how even novice bakers can get fabulous results from it. Yet, I still feel I haven’t done this bread its proper duty. My hope is that I can revisit this recipe in the future and give it the modifications it deserves.

What Is Pan De Cristal?

Pan de Cristal, also known as “Glass Bread” is a type of bread made from a very wet dough that is baked at a high temperature. This creates its signature features: open crumb, soft and chewy interior, thin and firm crust that shatters like glass (literally, you do not want to drop these when removing from the oven). It is excellent for soups or just for topping with olive oil and tomatoes. I love to lightly toast this bread and use it to make the best open-faced sandwiches.

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe is simple yet advanced, all at the same time. Just four ingredients come together to create this crusty, chewy bread. Because of this dough’s incredibly high hydration (105%), it is essential to develop the dough using coil folds, which makes dough handling options limited, but also very hands-on: a process I find extremely satisfying. The final crumb reveal is the most exciting part of making this recipe – the pressure! That’s when you know if you really made it.

All The “Why’s”

Strong Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently.

Bread flour is an incredibly important element to achieving success in this recipe. Without a strong bread flour, the dough will not come together through the folding process. It will remain very wet, and will break and fall apart easily. You see, because this recipe is so highly hydrated (contains a lot of water), gluten will have a more difficult time forming, especially if the flour is not capable of absorbing all the water. For best results, use a bread flour with a protein percentage above 12%. The stronger the better. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

If you absolutely cannot access a good quality bread flour, it is possible to still make this recipe by reducing the amount of water to match what your flour can handle and adding a couple of tablespoons of vital wheat gluten to the dough. While these two things will make this recipe possible for you, they will not lend quite the same results.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has a very high hydration of approximately 105%. This is a lot of water, which contributes to the final texture and openness of the bread. More water means more extensibility, which helps this dough to open up more in the oven if handled correctly (too many folds can counter the extensibility from the extra water, creating elasticity, which can close the crumb). Very high hydration doughs, like this one, tend to be harder to handle, but with this recipe I do my best to keep things as simple as possible, using time and coil folds to structure the dough.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. As long as the flour you use in this recipe can handle the amount of water we are adding to is, gluten will come together by the second fold. In this recipe, folds help structure the gluten, as well as the fermenting dough. We need to stretch the dough to help the dough gain form, and not just remain a sloppy mess.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your bread completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic loaf, which just means the end result will be taller with a more defined shape. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter loaf, but with a more “wild” and open crumb. We want to find the perfect balance for the best result.

For this recipe, I aim for four folds, spaced about fourty-five minutes apart. This balance seems to be perfect paired with fermentation at room temperature (70 F; 21 C). You could do them even farther apart at this temperature, but since we are not doing an autolyse, it is better to do a few sets closer together in the beginning to get gluten development going.

I have had several ask me about doing this recipe at a higher temperature (75-80 F; 24-26 C). For this, you must consider a couple of important factors. First, this recipe does not include an autolyse, nor does it use a stand mixer to develop gluten. That means gluten must develop through time while fermentation is also present. The longer the dough ferments without gluten, the more air that is lost and the more closed the crumb. Since dough ferments faster at warmer temperatures, if gluten does not come together quickly, much air will be lost. Second, you will want to do your folds closer together at warmer temperatures. The point you fold your dough in relation to its stage of fermentation makes a difference! Since the dough will be fermenting quicker, folding the dough in shorter intervals is helpful.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold ferment your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches double in size after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, you will need to consider decreasing the percentage of rise you give the dough before you shape it. I can give you some guidelines, but ultimately you will need to experiment and find your own way for your own environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Cold Bulk Fermentation

The refrigeration step of this recipe is optional, but it does several things to help the dough. First, as with refrigeration in any recipe, it sets the flavors, creating more complex flavors, and then eventually sour flavor. This is because cool temperatures slow yeast, but bacteria (which produce complex/sour flavor) continue to multiply. If you do not prefer any hint of sour in your bread, do not cold ferment your dough, or be sure to keep the cold fermentation short (under twelve hours).

Aside from flavor development, the reason I love refrigeration is that it extends the baking timeline, allowing me to bake my bread whenever I am ready. This means more flexibility – no baking of the dough too late in the evening and waiting for it to cool before going to bed.

Last, for this dough specifically, I find that it creates a more even crumb. A warm, room temperature dough popped into a hot oven will spring up like pita bread, and, at this hydration, you may end up with a huge hole on the top of the bread. Usually, I find my dough gets a better crumb when baked from warm, but for this dough I’d rather bake from cold.

Shaping

This dough is so easy to shape – just cut it into sections and separate them. It really isn’t even a shape at all, just a division of dough.

Scoring

This bread does not get a score. The dough is so wet, and it expands just fine on its own. You can always skip the score on any bread, as its only purpose is to control where the bread expands. Otherwise, the bread will crack wherever it desires.

Baking Method: Temperature

I played around with a lot of temperatures when baking this bread, and finally settled on a combination of two. 475 F, combined with the addition of steam, helps promote the best oven spring. It’s hot, but not too hot, so the dough rises well. You can watch these loaves literally pop up in the oven in the first ten minutes of baking! After that, 425 F for the remainder of the time perfectly cooks the loaves through without over-browning.

Baking Method: Steam

Steam is crucial to the first few minutes of baking these loaves. Steam delays the formation of crust, allowing the Pan de Cristal to expand to its full potential before the outside forms.

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I find smaller loaves are better than bigger ones when I have to use this method. Recently, I purchased a Challenger Bread Pan and, though it does not fit all the loaves at once, it does help with steam retention. Still, cutting these smaller and open baking with a light spray of water on top and boiling water below my stone seems to work great as well.

In reality, you can open bake this bread using any method of steaming that works best for your oven. Boiling water, lava rocks, etc. all work great. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

Work Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

This is probably the most versatile bread on the planet. Over-proofed dough? Focaccia. Pizza? Focaccia. Sandwiches? Focaccia. Everyone is obsessed with focaccia, and rightly so.

To me, focaccia is best when it is made right. Perfectly fermented, doused in copious amounts of olive oil, with simple toppings: sea salt, fresh rosemary, tomatoes, and maybe olives if you like them. The bread soaks up the oil from the pan, making it soft and full of flavor. It’s incredibly tasty on its own, but so delightful as a sandwich bread as well.

What Is Focaccia?

Focaccia is a type of Italian bread known for its dimpled surface, which helps infuse olive oil and seasonings throughout the bread. It is similar to pizza dough, but typically thicker and softer. Focaccia can be enjoyed plain or with various toppings such as olives, tomatoes, onions, or cheese. It’s a versatile bread that can be served as an appetizer, snack, or alongside a meal.

What I Love About This Recipe

With focaccia comes ease and versatility. This bread is light, bubbly, and full of flavor (thank you olive oil and toppings!). It can be used as a base for pizza, or cut open and used to make the most flavorful sandwiches. With focaccia, it is nearly impossible to go wrong.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 82%. This is a high hydration recipe, meaning we are working with a fairly wet dough. While loose doughs can sometimes be harder to manage, this is not so with focaccia (at least in my opinion) because we do not have to worry about handling the dough for anything difficult, only to provide some structure through folds. The high hydration adds to the extensibility of the dough, opening the crumb if handled appropriately, and helps create a soft, light texture in the baked bread.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your bread completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic bread, which just means the end result will be taller, sometimes with a more closed crumb. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter bread, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

For this recipe, I aim for four folds, spaced a minimum of thirty minutes apart. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold proof your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches a 50% size increase after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, be sure to watch the dough and consider decreasing the percentage rise as needed for your environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 6 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take much longer, a minimum of 8 hours. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 4-5 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 2 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Note the decreased fermentation period for bulk fermentation. I only ferment this dough to 50% size increase so that I can have a longer final proof. I like to let the dough rest in the pan, untouched, for a good amount of time before baking.

Shaping

Focaccia is beautiful in that it requires no shaping efforts. Simply dump the dough into the desired baking dish, lightly stretching if necessary. 

Cold Proof

I stick this dough in the refrigerator, overnight, after shaping. Though placing the dough in the fridge isn’t necessary, I find it creates a deeper flavor (your starter’s bacteria at work!) and adds flexibility to the baking timeline.

Room Temperature Dough

It is better not to bake the dough from cold. Instead, let it continue to rest and puff up on the counter before dimpling and baking. A room temperature dough is essential to obtaining the proper oven spring. The combination of room temperature dough + a very hot oven will create an exploding effect that will help the bread expand and create a beautiful open and even crumb.

Because of the shortened bulk fermentation, we can watch the dough in the baking dish to tell when it is ready. I generally proof this dough on the counter for 6-8 hours (at 70 F, 21 C) after removing it from the refrigerator before dimpling and baking.

Olive Oil

A high quality, flavorful olive oil all over the bottom and top of the focaccia makes a world of a difference. The focaccia bread absorbs all the oil after baking, boosting flavor and moisture, as well as creating a beautiful color on the top and bottom of the bread.

Toppings

Focaccia is incredibly versatile in that it can be topped to your heart’s desire. Get creative or keep it simple. Either way, you’ll come out with a delicious treat.

It is important to keep in mind some of the effects of what you are topping the dough with. For example, marinara sauce will soak into the dough and in large portions will keep your bread from baking correctly. Most cheeses will burn and should be added at the end of baking.

Coating fruits, vegetables, and fresh herbs in olive oil can help keep them from burning. I like to coat my tomatoes and fresh rosemary in olive oil for best results.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. Though I would prefer to bake my focaccia at 500 F (260 C), I find it burns those delicate air bubbles before the rest of the loaf is baked. Therefore, I chose a temperature of 450 F (230 C) to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, while also reducing burnt air bubbles, yet still producing a lightly crisp end result.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

All-In-One-Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

For some reason, good English muffin recipes are rare. Many are dense and heavy, lacking nooks and crannies for all that butter and jam. Not this one. My perfect English muffin is one that is light, slightly soft, with a subtle crisp when bitten into. It has nooks and crannies scattered throughout, but not as in “random large holes.” No – nooks and crannies as in: a bunch of little holes all next to each other that perfectly and evenly hold their filling. It is possible, and it is not that hard. You just have to know a few key pieces of information, which (of course) I spill the beans on below.

What Are English Muffins?

English muffins are a small, round, and flat yeast-leavened bread product. They are fried on a griddle or stovetop, which gives them their unique texture and appearance – golden and crispy on the outside, yet soft and chewy on the inside. English muffins are often split open with a fork, toasted, and served with butter, jam, or used as a base for breakfast sandwiches (my favorite!).

A Brief History Of English Muffins

English muffins were invented by a British expatriate in America in the late 1800s. A man named Samuel Bath Thomas developed them as a thinner, pre-cut version of crumpets. While crumpets are made from a wet batter that is cooked only on one side, English muffins are made from a firmer dough that is split down the middle, usually with a fork. They are much more well-known and popularized in America than England, where they are termed, “American muffins.”

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe creates an English muffin that is beautifully light and airy with nooks and crannies throughout. To create them, I break a few traditional rules, such as frying low and slow until the muffins are cooked completely through. I also bring back forgotten knowledge, such as the main liquid base for English muffins. I also use some techniques I do not see often, such as dividing the dough into equally-weighted sections and shaping into rounds, rather than rolling out the dough and cutting with a dough cutter. Altogether, I think the blend of techniques and ingredients in this recipe creates a stunning end result that will leave any baker obsessed with baking more.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 70%. The amount of liquid present is just enough to create a soft dough that can be structured by hand through folds. Increased hydration (more liquid) leads to chewier textures, which I do not want too much of in this recipe. I find this amount of liquid to yield the perfect texture in the bread, as well as create the right consistency of dough to make for easy handling for any level of sourdough baker.

Little To No Milk

While most English muffin recipes on the internet today are primarily milk-based, this one is not. This recipe includes hardly any milk, though it does include a smidgen for reasons I will explain in a moment. In fact, your muffins will come out great if the milk is skipped altogether and replaced with water. This factor is so very important to the overall texture of the muffins and it plays a large role in the presence of the nooks and crannies.

Originally, I did not include any milk in the recipe. But, milk creates density and softness. A small amount of this is actually very helpful to balancing out the chewiness that water creates. That is why I, inevitably, decided to include a small percentage of it in this recipe. Did you know the original English muffin recipe did not include milk at all? It is not essential.

Aside from the positive effects, milk has some neutral effects, such as darkening of the crust, and also one majorly negative effect for English muffins, and that is that it completely closes the crumb. Why? Milk is a tightening agent (like salt), and in large portions brings too much elasticity to the dough. With milk as the base, no matter the fermentation, it is nearly impossible to achieve the openness desired in English muffins. Therefore, this recipe is primarily made with water as the liquid base, and uses only a small percentage of milk (small enough to still allow for those gorgeous nooks and crannies to come through) to add a little bit of softness to the interior of the muffin. For a deeper dive into the effects of milk in English muffins, see my expansion post on this topic, linked below:

Oil Over Butter

Oil, in addition to milk, adds softness to the dough. I chose to use oil over butter in this recipe due to the fact that I chose to hand mix the dough and develop the gluten through folds. Unless the liquids are heated (which I do not do) butter will solidify during mixing and is much more difficult to incorporate. Butter can be used, if desired, keeping this fact in mind, being sure to warm the liquids so that it can be incorporated easily.

No Added Sugar

Many English muffin recipes add sugar, usually only a small amount, to the dough. The purpose of the small portion of sugar would be to aid in fermentation. Unlike adding a large amount of sugar (which slows fermentation) a small amount of sugar can help the yeast get going. This is more important in English muffins made with commercial yeast, and is not necessary for a sourdough English muffin recipe like this one. The yeast are able to receive plenty of nutrients and sugars through the flour and the milk in this recipe. It is not even necessary to sweeten the dough for the purposes of eliminating a “sour” flavor, as a well-developed “sour” flavor is often a sought-after trait in English muffins. 

Dough and Gluten Development

This dough includes only a small percentage of enrichments (oil, milk), neither of which is enough to interfere with the natural process of gluten development that happens over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your crumb completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic loaf, which just means the end result will be taller with a more defined shape. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter muffin, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

Troubleshooting

• If you feel your crumb is too closed (and you know fermentation is on point), try spacing the folds out more.
• If you feel your muffins are too flat, try replacing the first set of folds with two to three minutes of kneading, adding one to two sets of folds to the recipe, or performing your folds closer together.
• Beware of how temperature plays a part; you will want to do your folds closer together if the environment is warm (above 72 F, 22 C) and farther apart if the environment is cool (below 72 F, 22 C)

For this recipe, I aim for four folds. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough. You can do each set of folds a minimum of fifteen minutes apart, but thirty minutes is better. Even an hour apart can be okay, but then it may throw off your ability to judge fermentation, which is only a factor if you are new to making sourdough and do not quite know the right timing for your environment. Feel free to play around with everything I just mentioned and notice what intervals gives you the results you are looking for in your bread. You can do a minimum of four sets of folds, or a maximum of eight sets; though, I do not see a reason to go so high.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold ferment your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches 50-75% in size after folds are complete. The bulk fermentation here is significantly reduced from what I usually do, and that is because I let the dough rest on the counter for a very long final proof. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, you will need to consider decreasing the percentage of rise you give the dough before you shape it. I can give you some guidelines, but ultimately you will need to experiment and find your own way for your own environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 5-6 hours to warm bulk ferment (before the refrigerator) in this recipe. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take much longer: a minimum of 8 hours. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 3-4 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 2 hours to complete the first fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Cold Bulk Fermentation

Though placing the dough in the fridge isn’t necessary, it will create a deeper final flavor, as well as add flexibility to the baking timeline. I choose to do this before the muffins are shaped, rather than after, but either way will result in a beautiful flavor. The dough must be at room temperature or slightly warmer before frying, which is why placing the dough in the fridge at the end of bulk fermentation seems to make the most sense. Furthermore, it will also make handling the dough for shaping slightly easier.

If you choose to skip cold bulk fermentation, you will want to shape the dough after about a 50-75% size increase, and then let the muffins proof on the counter until about double in size for best results. When skipping the fridge, it is easy to use visual cues since we do not have to worry about the dough rising too much in the refrigerator.

Shaping

The dough is shaped by dividing into twelve equal sections and shaping each section into a round by using a clean counter and your pinkies to tighten the outer skin. This method, at least in my opinion, is much easier and a lot less time consuming than rolling out the dough and cutting into rounds using a biscuit cutter. 

A Long Final Proof

A “final proof” is simply the time the dough is left to rest and ferment after shaping, but before cooking. This recipe includes a long final proof, which is possible due to the shortened bulk fermentation, for a reason. After the dough is shaped, it is left to ferment and develop bubbles, remaining unhandled. This, in addition to everything else mentioned above, is an important factor to achieving those gorgeous nooks and crannies. A dough that has not been left to proof long enough will not result in the same nooks and crannies as one left for longer. There is one catch, though. A dough left to proof too long will not have as much of a “spring” on the hot griddle (though it may or may not still result in beautiful nooks). It is important to let the dough relax and expand a good amount, but not flatten completely, in order to achieve the perfect English muffin.

Room Temperature Dough

A dough that is room temperature, or slightly warmer, will result in the best “spring” on the griddle, as well as the biggest air bubbles inside. I learned this lesson when working on baguettes, as I tried to mimic my standard country loaf and bake them from cold, only to discover a major lack of desired oven spring. This same concept applies to English muffins. The warmer dough temperature hitting a high heat on the griddle will cause the muffins to puff up rapidly and produce beautiful air bubbles inside.

Cooking Method: High Heat

Hear me out on the high heat. Maybe you have researched and are positive that English muffins are meant to be fried from start to finish: slowly at a lower temperature. And the truth is, you can do this and I will tell you how (more on this in FAQs). The pitfall to frying “low and slow” is the goal of the nooks and crannies. Room temperature (or slightly warmer) dough needs to hit high heat. This reaction will cause the muffins to puff up immediately, expand beautifully, and produce gorgeous air bubbles. By using a lower heat, the muffins will rise slower, and will still produce air bubbles as they expand (maybe even enough for you to be satisfied!), but not in the same way as a muffin cooked on a higher heat. Unfortunately, using the higher heat means the muffins would burn on the outside before they are cooked all the way through, which is why I combine this method with baking in the oven.

An Oven-Baked Finish

I finish these muffins by baking them in a 350 F oven for 15 minutes. The muffins received their “spring” and golden exterior on the stovetop, but now they must finish cooking through. A moderate heat is all that is necessary, since expansion and proper browning has already occurred. I prefer to place the muffins directly in the oven after they are finished on the stovetop, in order to keep the heat on them until they are finished cooking. To do this, I work in batches and use multiple timers on my phone to know when everything is ready. Alternatively, place the muffins on a baking sheet as they are finished on the stovetop and bake the muffins altogether for fifteen minutes.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

All-In-One-Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

For some, a bread recipe that requires extremely minimal effort is the ultimate goal. Who cares about perfection? I just want bread! This recipe is just that – minimal effort, moderate results. I wanted to make this recipe stupidly simple, so that those who do not have the time, effort, or desire to slave over their loaves all day would have something to turn to.

Let me be clear – this is not me. I’d much rather take the two minutes every hour to fold my dough and to meet all of its needs so that I can have my perfect loaf: one that is tall and defined, bursts in the oven, and presents a wide open crumb. As of the time of this writing, I am still searching for this recipe, though I get closer with every bake.

However, I also seek to meet all the needs of the sourdough community. And, for many, that is minimal effort. I respect that. We do not all have a sourdough obsession: we just want to make good bread.

So, let us do just that. Make bread. And, let me tell you about the “why’s” behind everything you will face here, so that you really understand what is going on.

What Is Country Bread?

Country bread is a French-inspired rustic loaf of sourdough bread. It can be shaped into a boule (round) or a batard (oval). This is the bread that most people simply call “sourdough” today. This bread was popularized in the early 2000’s by Chad Robertson, whose book, Tartine Bread, is the root for which all modern sourdough is based today.

This type of bread can be made with a variety of flour types for different flavors and textures. For this recipe, we will stick with the simplest version, using just the most basic ingredients: white flour, water, salt (and sourdough starter). And, very unlike the original, we will use our stand mixer to do the bulk of the work for us.

What I Love About This Recipe

Twenty minutes. That is all you need. Twenty minutes and you have (well, actually your stand mixer has) done most of the work. There is no coming back and checking on the dough, unless you are so inclined. Ferment it, shape it, bake it, and you have sourdough.

All The “Why’s”

Flour Choice

I almost always use bread flour in my leavened bread recipes. The reason can change, depending on the type of bread I am making, but I almost always fall back to bread flour for one reason or another. In this recipe, gluten is developed in a stand mixer, which means that we must take into account a few important things about this type of bread and how it comes together in a stand mixer specifically.

My main reason for using bread flour in my artisan bread recipes gluten-forming proteins. This is very important in hand-mixed dough, which comes together naturally through fermentation. Without bread flour, the gluten does not come together as quickly or as strong, leading to a weak dough that is overly extensible and readily loses air.

This same concept applies to bread mixed with all-purpose flour in a stand mixer, but in a different way. With all-purpose flour, the dough takes longer to come together during mixing, just like it takes longer to come together naturally over time. Longer mixing times have their pros and cons, the biggest drawback being the incorporation of oxygen into the dough. While oxygen incorporation is necessary, it is a good thing only to a certain extent. Too much oxygen in bread dough is called “over-oxidation” and it produces a very white bread with a bland taste and closed crumb. This was the reason for Calvel’s invention of autolyse, which allows gluten to come together naturally before mixing begins, meaning mixing times are significantly reduced, even when using weaker flours.

To counter a weak flour without autolyse, we can simply add more flour. Adding more flour also has its pros and cons, but we must do what is best for our bread with the flour we are working with. The choice is yours: use a strong bread flour that comes together easily during mixing, or use a weaker all-purpose flour that might require additional flour or need to be mixed for longer. You might even choose to meet in the middle with a quality brand of all-purpose flour.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. This is important in a simple, stand mixer recipe, since we do not want to have to come back to the dough until it is time to shape.

Salt does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, including this one, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

For this recipe, I take down the hydration a bit since we do not need a dough extensible enough for folding. Since the plan is to not have to come back to the dough, we need to create enough structure through the proportions of each ingredient and through mixing. The more water in a recipe, the looser the structure, and the more times we have to come back and fold the dough to boost productivity during fermentation.

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 70%. It could even go down to 65%. But, beware! Balance is needed. While too much water means too little structure, too little water means strained ability to form gluten. Without gluten, the dough loses air and the loaf cracks. We have to have just the right amount of water for gluten to be able to form and for our dough to still stand tall on its own (without folds). 70% seems to be the perfect balance, creating a moderate hydration dough with these characteristics.

Mixing

All of the dough and gluten development in this recipe is done in a stand mixer. That makes mixing the most important component, aside from fermentation. While simple, a little knowledge can go a long way in helping us achieve the characteristics that are desired in a loaf of bread.

The goal of mixing is to incorporate all ingredients and to develop the gluten network, including the right balance of elasticity (strength, the loaf’s ability to stand tall and hold its shape) and extensibility (flexibility, stretchiness, the ability of the loaf to expand during fermentation and have a massive oven spring). Incorporating the ingredients is easy, and can take two minutes or less. But, if we just did this, we would still need to come back and structure the dough as it ferments, otherwise the loaf would be flat with a dense crumb: majorly underdeveloped. Trust me, I tried this and failed miserably, more than once. Dough and gluten development are essential to success, and we must do this properly in the stand mixer.

Extensibility

When you hand-strengthen a loaf of bread, extensibility is desired. It helps the loaf to be folded and structured properly throughout fermentation. Since we are not going to be touching the dough from mixing until shaping, it is actually better not to strive for excess extensibility. The dough will naturally relax through fermentation, which will give us all the extensibility we need for shaping and a good oven spring.

Extensibility (flexibility, stretchiness) is developed through increased hydration (more water), autolyse, weaker flour, or higher mixing speeds. Did you catch that? Higher mixing speeds are not bad, but they do create a more extensible dough. This extensibility is desired in some recipes, for example enriched doughs, especially milk breads, that we want to spring up more in the oven after a long fermentation. But, in a simple loaf like this, not so much.

Maybe you are wondering, “How do higher mixing speeds increase extensibility?” Maybe you thought it was the opposite, as I once did. Less mixing = a more relaxed dough = more extensibility. Too much mixing = a tense dough, which risks breaking apart the gluten completely. This is not so. You see, extensibility is a sign of weakness in bread dough, even though it is a necessary component of bread-making. Autolyse creates extensibility because important proteins are being degraded over time. Faster mixing speeds create extensibility because the gluten is being whacked around and broken when the dough is mixed more aggressively. You can choose how much extensibility you want in your dough by 1) knowing your flour and 2) choosing your mixing speed appropriately.

Mixing Speed

You can see in my original Stand Mixer Sourdough video on YouTube (also linked at the end of the recipe card), that I chose a higher speed to mix my dough. There are several reasons why I chose to do this. Let’s talk about them and what effects they caused.

My goal with the recipe I published on YouTube was to mimic a hand-strengthened loaf of sourdough country bread. My original thinking was that the amount of water was a key component in mimicking this crumb, so I chose to keep the amount of water the same. This meant my KitchenAid struggled to pick up the dough, which lead me to counter this by using higher speeds. Otherwise, the dough would take a very long time to come together (minimum of thirty minutes), and I might as well have just done the whole process by hand.

Using higher speeds helped me to be able to keep the hydration I wanted, without excessive mixing time. I was able to achieve a windowpane in a maximum of fifteen minutes. The dough fermented well-enough, was structured enough, and still produced a semi-open crumb.

Notice in the video how I struggled to judge fermentation. I folded the dough to help me keep my usual timing, and even in the end the dough still had not risen as much as I thought it should have. I could not answer this then, but I can answer it now. The gluten structure was too weak, too extensible. That dough needed the fold in the middle and it needed the lamination during shaping to present the minuscule amount of success that it did. Those things build strength (elasticity) which counters extensibility. Maybe this dough still needed folds just like what any sourdough baker usually does when mixing by hand. But, because whacking the dough around breaks gluten bonds, I do not think that kind of extensibility was ever going to be able to be fully fixed. Without a strong gluten network, fermentation cannot properly occur. This, my friends, is why I believe my fermentation was out of whack.

Different mixers have different speeds, and you can choose your speed according to your own personal preferences, based on to how your mixer functions and how your dough performs during fermentation. Our goal is to not have to come back to this dough and fold it. So we need to find some sort of balance that works with our dough, our mixer, and our process goals. We still need extensibility, we just do not need too much of it.

How To Accomplish Our Mixing Goals

During mixing, we want to develop the dough to medium development. Your dough should have a rough, but not complete, windowpane. Your dough will gain more strength during fermentation, so we need it to be just extensible enough to be able to expand, but not so extensible that the gluten structure is too broken (over-mixing), or that we need to help it out later with folds (under-mixing).

Start by mixing the dough at a low to medium-low speed until the ingredients are incorporated. This ensures everything is combined before gluten begins forming, that way the gluten can develop evenly and efficiently. Next, mix the dough at a slightly higher speed, medium-low to medium, until you can pull up on the dough without it tearing. This tells you that your dough may be ready to ferment.

Stop the mixer and check the windowpane. You want the be able to see through the dough only slightly. It should still have some dark patches (not see-through) interspersed with clear (see-through) dough. It should still tear when stretched excessively. If you can check both of these boxes, the dough is ready to rest and ferment.

Other Considerations

The Flour/Water Balance

Another important component to this kind of recipe is flour, which is discussed above. Different flours will perform differently during mixing. I kid you not when I say that every single flour needs to be worked with in a completely different way. This recipe is made for a 100% white flour bread, the choice being between the quality of proteins in the flour. Cake flour is out of the question, so the choice is between all-purpose flour and bread flour.

Since we are not building structure through folds, using more flour (or less water) is okay. Flour provides structure, we just have to make sure there is enough water that gluten can properly form. It is all about balance. Again, the dough needs to have enough moisture that it can stretch, but also needs to be stiff enough that it can hold itself firmly without requiring folds.

Oxygen

Mixing incorporates oxygen. While oxygen incorporation is necessary and good, too much can cause things to get out of whack. This is why too much mixing can lead to a closed crumb, white color, and bland taste. It is better to add more flour to help the dough come together than to mix for longer. Either way will result in a closed crumb, so you might as well add the flour and keep the taste, texture, and better fermentation capabilities of perfectly mixed bread.

Bulk Fermentation

This loaf is easy to ferment because it does not require any folding. Watch the dough until it doubles in size, then shape. Unless you use the fridge for the final proof, that is. That is where things could get complicated.

Warmer dough continues to ferment a considerable amount in the refrigerator. Colder dough does as well, but to a much lesser extent. It is all about the time it takes for the dough to cool off to the temperature of the refrigerator. In that case, I can provide you with some guidelines on fermentation. Always watch your dough and do your best to read your bread once it is baked and make necessary adjustments for your next attempt.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment (the time from mixing to shaping). Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C), take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

However, if you do not use the refrigerator at all in the entire process, it is easy to rely on visual cues. In this case, simply watch the dough until it doubles in size. A container with straight sides can help with this. Then, you can shape the dough and watch it again until it looks puffy and maybe even doubles in size again.

The goal with fermentation is to push it as long as possible. Bread that tastes gummy or chewy could always ferment longer. A well-fermented dough should taste light, airy, and soft. If you are having trouble achieving this kind of texture before the dough “overproofs” (which is when the bacteria have completely degraded the flour), this is a sign of starter imbalance. This topic is way too complicated, and I will save it for another day.

Shaping

Since we are only making one loaf of bread, it is not necessary to pre-shape the dough. Simply turn it out, and shape it using your preferred method for a boule or batard before adding to your banneton.

It is important to be very gentle with the dough during this step, if you want to keep air bubbles intact, that is. If not, simply pat the dough all over after turning out, which will degass the dough and result in a more closed and even crumb.

Cold Proof

A cold proof is always an option to extend the baking timeline, which creates flexibility. I cold ferment this dough when I make it in the morning and let it bulk ferment all day. I skip the cold ferment when I make the dough at night and let it bulk ferment overnight. You can bake this loaf straight from the fridge, or after a minimum one hour rest on the counter after shaping.

Scoring

I am super simple when it comes to scoring. You only need one score, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, to help this loaf expand without cracking all over. I am not about decorative scoring, but if you are, then go for it!

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven.

Baking Method: Steam

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. Therefore, I always use a Dutch oven for bakes like this (lid on for the first half of baking [steam], lid off second half [to firm up the crust]). Currently, that is my Challenger Bread Pan (which I absolutely love!).

In reality, you can open bake this bread, just make sure your oven has plenty of steam for the first twenty minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. Open-baking works best with electric ovens that do not have vents. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

Work Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

I like to think of a baguette simply as a smaller version of country bread. I mean, it really is the same concept, only it is divided divided and it is shaped differently. Because it is smaller, you get more crust, hence this bread being known for its crispy crust. There are other variations too, breads even thinner than a baguette, for even more crust and crunchiness. But, this one? I don’t know – I think it presents just the right balance. You can have a long piece of bread that is excellent for sandwiches or toast, with crunch in every bite, or you can have nice and small pieces of soup bread, with just the right balance of bread and crust.

What Is A Baguette?

A baguette is a long, thin loaf of French bread characterized by its crusty exterior and soft interior. Baguettes can be sliced and used for sandwiches, served as a side with soups and salads, or simply enjoyed on their own with butter or cheese.

This type of bread is made from a fairly wet dough, which easier to develop by hand. It is made from simple ingredients: flour, water, salt (and sourdough starter). The long fermentation time allows gluten to come together, as well as provides the dough with most of its strength. It is baked at a high temperature with steam (for a fuller expansion) to achieve a sort of “explosion” in the oven, which gives the bread a beautiful oven spring and interior.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 78%, meaning this dough contains a good amount of water. Baguettes need extensibility to create flexibility, which helps them open up more. Water is one component that helps make this possible. The amount of water in this recipe also allows the baguette dough to be structured by hand through folds with ease.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your bread completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic bread, which just means the end result will be taller with a more defined shape. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean less structure, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

For this recipe, I aim for four folds. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough. For this dough, we really want to make sure the dough is fully relaxed, which will give it more extensibility, but also just enough structure. I like to do my folds at least thirty minutes apart, an hour apart being even better. The key is to also know your fermentation timing, and adjust accordingly.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked bread as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold ferment your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches double in size after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, you will need to consider decreasing the percentage of rise you give the dough before you shape it. I can give you some guidelines, but ultimately you will need to experiment and find your own way for your own environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

Since we are only making three baguettes, it is necessary to pre-shape the dough. Dividing and shaping the dough into rounds helps to set the baguettes up for shaping success. The pre-shaped rounds make the final shaping process much smoother, making way for an even shape and perfect tension.

It is important to be very gentle with the dough during both the pre-shape and final shape, if you want to keep air bubbles intact, that is. If not, simply pat the dough all over after turning out, which will degass the dough and result in a more closed and even crumb.

The baguette’s final shape could not be more important. It is vital to helping the baguettes spring properly in the oven and result in an open interior. You see, the shaping process for this bread creates necessary tension. I use a sprinkle of regular white wheat flour (as opposed to rice or semolina flour) to keep things from sticking to my counter or my hands. Sometimes I use water, but for this recipe I like to use flour. A smooth, even, and tight shape can mean the difference between a tall and pronounced baguette with a bursting score and a flat baguette whose score barely opens up.

Room Temperature Dough

I’ve found that baking my baguettes from room temperature results in a much better oven spring. Maybe it is just my oven, which does not hold steam very well at all (it is a gas oven), but the combination of room temperature dough + a very hot oven seems to create an exploding effect that helps the baguettes expand and create a beautiful open and even crumb. This is why I prefer to cold ferment this dough rather than cold proof this dough to expand the baking timeline. (Ferment meaning before shaping; proof meaning after shaping.) The cold dough is firmer, which makes the shaping process smoother. After the dough is shaped, it has time to come down to room temperature before baking, lending a great oven spring.

Scoring

Scoring baguettes can be tough! I am still working on getting it right. They key is to score straight down in several slashes, rather than diagonally. Since the dough is warm, you’ll need a sharp razor and you’ll want to move quickly!

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. Since originally writing this recipe, I have increased the baking temperature even more because I see the benefits so clearly. I even did a side-by-side comparison (I wish I had taken photos!) and the higher temperature wins every time. The key: when the oven is so hot, you must have steam to help the dough expand before the crust begins to harden. A temperature of 500 F (260 C) gives this dough the best “pop” in the oven.

Baking Method: Steam

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. This is because steam escapes through the gas vents, causing just about any steaming method to be ineffective, which causes the crust to harden too soon. I finally gave in and purchased a Challenger Bread Pan, which has been a lifesaver and gives me much better results than anything else I have tried (and, trust me, I have tried it all). Therefore, my personal view is that, if you have a gas oven, a covered steam method (such as using a Dutch oven) is best, if possible.

If you have an electric oven, you can easily open bake. A pan of boiling water, ice on the bottom of the oven, or boiling water over lava rocks are all great methods. Based on my experience, boiling water is better than ice because it does not drop the oven temperature too much. Your goal is simply to create a sauna for your bread during the first half of baking.

Before I got my Challenger Bread Pan, I did open bake this baguette recipe in my gas oven. The picture in this post are from an open bake I did before I got my Challenger Bread Pan. While the crumb on these is good, the crumb from the Challenger Bread Pan is great. Baking temperature, heat retention, and steam really do make a wild difference in the end result.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

Work Day Timeline

All-In-One Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

I am going to be honest with you: I never make this bread the same way twice. This is one of those recipes that can take years to master, and I am still working on mastering this one. This particular recipe was originally published November of 2023 as a YouTube video, which I later transferred to my blog in February of 2024. To say that I have changed my technique a lot since publishing this recipe is an understatement. I have experimented with everything under the sun, and am still experimenting with more. At the time of this update (October 2024), I have gained so much insight, and I am excited to share some of it with you in this post. But, do I ever follow this recipe? No. In fact, when I finally do hone in on one particular technique, I bet it will look nothing like this one. So, for now, I present to you an abundance of bread knowledge and a recipe that works, but is still being refined.

What Is Country Bread?

Country bread is a French-inspired rustic loaf of sourdough bread. It can be shaped into a boule (round) or a batard (oval). This is the bread that most people simply call “sourdough” today. This bread was popularized in the early 2000’s by Chad Robertson, whose book, Tartine Bread, is the root for which all modern sourdough is based today.

This type of bread is made from a fairly wet dough, which easier to develop by hand. The long fermentation time allows gluten to come together, as well as provides the dough with most of its strength. It is baked at a high temperature with steam (for a fuller expansion) to achieve a sort of “explosion” in the oven, which gives the loaf a beautiful oven spring and interior.

This type of bread can be made with a variety of flour types for different flavors and textures. For this recipe, we will stick with the simplest version, using just the most basic ingredients: flour, water, salt (and sourdough starter).

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe makes a great loaf of bread, but without a wildly open crumb. It is perfect for sandwiches or toast. It does not require any advanced steps, such as autolyse; rather all ingredients are mixed at once. This way: you will not forget to add anything to the dough. Working the dough by hand means that no special equipment is necessary to get it together, as folds and a long fermentation time create the necessary structure. Visual cues help you learn to read your dough to know exactly when the next step needs to take place, or if something about the process is off. The Dutch-oven bake gives this recipe the perfect crust and oven spring, while the cold ferment helps set the classic sourdough flavor.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 75%. This amount of water is just enough that the dough can be structured by hand through folds with ease. The higher the hydration (the more water present in the dough), the harder the dough is to handle. I find the amount in this recipe to be a perfect balance between easy handling and beautiful stretching/ease of dough development, which makes the balance of this recipe perfect for even a beginner. Read more about dough hydration here.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

Folding the dough has many benefits, and time you fold it in relation to its stage in fermentation can also change the outcome of your loaf completely. More folds up front (sometimes, I also pair this with increased mixing time) creates a more elastic loaf, which just means the end result will be taller with a more defined shape. Less folds, or folds that are more spaced out, can mean a flatter loaf, but with a more “wild” and open crumb.

For this recipe, I aim for six folds. The key is to make sure the dough relaxes completely between each set. This way, the folds are more efficient at structuring the dough. You can do each set of folds a minimum of fifteen minutes apart, but thirty minutes is better. Even an hour apart can be okay, but then it may throw off your ability to judge fermentation, which is only a factor if you are new to making sourdough and do not quite know the right timing for your environment. Feel free to play around with everything I just mentioned and notice what intervals gives you the results you are looking for in your bread. You can do a minimum of four sets of folds, or a maximum of eight sets; though, I do not see a reason to go so high.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

If you choose to cold proof your dough, as I do in this recipe, the temperature of your bulk fermentation is very important. A warm dough will continue to rise significantly in the fridge, while a cooler dough will not. I keep this dough around 70 F, and bulk ferment it until it reaches double in size after folds are complete. If you live in a climate like mine, or even cooler, this method will work fine. But, if your environment is warmer, you will need to consider decreasing the percentage of rise you give the dough before you shape it. I can give you some guidelines, but ultimately you will need to experiment and find your own way for your own environment.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

Since we are only making one loaf of bread, it is not necessary to pre-shape the dough. Simply turn it out, and shape it using your preferred method for a boule or batard before adding to your banneton.

It is important to be very gentle with the dough during this step, if you want to keep air bubbles intact, that is. If not, simply pat the dough all over after turning out, which will degass the dough and result in a more closed and even crumb.

I actually do perform a pre-shape in the recipe video. Here is the reason for a pre-shape: to get your dough into a shape that will make it easier to achieve the final shape you are looking for. Pre-shaping is commonly used when the dough has to be divided, such as when making rolls, baguettes, or multiple loaves of bread. It might also be used if your dough came out of the container strangely, and would be difficult to evenly shape into its final form. Pre-shaping tightens gluten and builds elasticity, which is why the dough must rest afterward before the final shape: to allow it to loosen up again so that it stretches and shapes into its final form with ease. But, like I said before, since this recipe only makes one loaf, you do not have to worry about a pre-shape.

Cold Proof

A cold proof is always an option to extend the baking timeline, which creates flexibility. I do usually cold ferment this dough, that way I can prepare it the day before and bake it whenever I want fresh bread the next day. If you make this recipe as an overnight dough, you may not want to cold proof (and, that works as well!). Simply let it rest for one to three more hours before baking, depending on the climate and how the dough is looking.

Scoring

I am super simple when it comes to scoring. You only need one score, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, to help this loaf expand without cracking all over. I am not about decorative scoring, but if you are, then go for it!

In my video, I teach you how to score your dough at the right angle for the most prominent ear, as well as how to do a five-minute score to improve expansion in the oven. In reality, if your dough is well-strengthened, the loaf will expand just perfectly without scoring at the right angle or adding the extra score at five minutes.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven.

Baking Method: Steam

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. Therefore, I always use a Dutch oven for bakes like this (lid on for the first half of baking [steam], lid off second half [to firm up the crust]). Currently, that is my Challenger bread pan (which I absolutely love!).

In reality, you can open bake this bread, just make sure your oven has plenty of steam for the first twenty minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. Open-baking works best with electric ovens that do not have vents. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Suggested Timeline

Work Day Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

This bread is inspired by the unique, deep flavor of rye, a favorite in many parts of the world, made in the form of the common sourdough boule. I wanted to make a bread where rye was clear and prominent, but not too overbearing. I can already hear my German community screaming, “Too overbearing! Never.” But, in my part of the world, rye is not so common. I also wanted to incorporate flavors commonly paired with rye, hence the optional caraway, which is inspired by Czech rye. Here, I use 45% whole rye flour to balance the deep, heavy flavor of rye for the tastebuds of my North American surroundings, as well as keep the process at least somewhat similar to that of the ever-so-popular sourdough boule.

Rye’s Unique Characteristics

Rye flour does not function like wheat flour in any respect. Rye is very low in gluten, which means it can be very difficult to work with. It also means it does not ferment well, since the gluten is weak and struggles to hold in air. Whole rye paired with low gluten means a closed, yet even, crumb (or, at least, that is the most I have been able to achieve from it so far). Crumb preferences aside, we can still get a balanced flavor and soft texture in our bread.

Rye is also stickier than other flours and requires special consideration to technique and process. It is a favorite of our starter: bacteria love this grain; therefore, it has the potential to create an end result that is very sour. It is important to watch the bread closely and maneuver the dough with care, since the weak flour struggles to hold in air and the stickiness of the dough can make things difficult.

However, rye’s deep and nutty flavor is a real pleasure. Despite its unusual characteristics, rye bread is a pleasure to make and a joy to eat. The bread also has an increased shelf life, thanks rye!

What I Love About This Recipe

This recipe does not skip on the rye flour. With a 45/55 combination of rye/wheat flour, rye’s deep, nutty flavor is very prominent. This recipe is very balanced, taking careful note of the effects of each ingredient. Additional water helps prevent the bread from becoming too dense, while the caraway seeds are a beautiful, Czech-inspired, pairing.

All The “Why’s”

Whole Rye Flour

Whole rye brings all of the deepest rye flavor to this recipe. Whole rye flour is equivalent to whole wheat flour in that it contains all parts of the grain (bran, germ, and endosperm), rather than just the endosperm (which is light rye flour). This means there will be a more pronounced rye flavor, darker color, and denser texture.

Rye flour is also low in gluten binding proteins, and using whole rye means we have the bran and germ to think of, which cut through gluten, making it even weaker than it already is. Less gluten means weaker structure, which means the dough cannot hold in air very well. This, in itself, leads to a more closed crumb, as well as a need to reduce fermentation time (otherwise the loaf would “overproof” and lose structure very quickly).

Fear not, I accommodate everything that rye brings to the table as much as possible. I do my best to reduce density and create as strong a loaf I can for the best fermentation. I also want to note that rye flour is stickier, meaning this dough will be noticeably sticker than other doughs since I use 45% rye flour in this recipe. With a little bit of water on your hands or work surface, though, the dough is still completely manageable.

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. In this recipe, this is especially important. We need to do everything we can to help trap air and create gluten. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent gluten-binding properties.

Vital Wheat Gluten

In addition to using a strong bread flour, I also add vital wheat gluten to the dough. In short, vital wheat gluten is basically straight gluten. Because rye flour lacks the ability to create a strong gluten network, adding a tablespoon of vital wheat gluten helps make up for some of this inability and works to help the dough come together better, which creates a more balanced loaf that can rise as well as possible, hold itself strong and tall in the oven, and avoid cracking during the baking process.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

This recipe has an approximate hydration of 85%. While this seems high, it is necessary to compensate for the amount of water absorbed by the whole rye flour. Rye flour is already a sticky flour and the extra water can make for an advanced working dough. But, with proper strength, fermentation, and handling techniques, this dough is completely manageable.

The extra water works to counteract the dense tendencies that rye typically brings to the table, resulting in a lighter bread. It also makes the dough more workable by hand, allowing for folds to still take place to help with dough development, which aids in the dough’s overall structure and rise. Read more about dough hydration here.

Molasses

I have added just a tiny bit of sugar in this recipe to nudge fermentation along. Despite the loaf not being able to ferment well (due to the weaker structure from the rye), it does need something to help nudge fermentation along, since rye flour actually slows yeast reproduction. The amount of sugar in this recipe (3%) is not enough to sweeten, or even create osmotic stress. It is just enough to feed the yeast in your starter so that they can keep up with the bacteria in your starter, who are very much enjoying that rye flour. This helps to create a more balanced bread, one that aerates (yeast) and ferments (bacteria) evenly. Bacteria that overproduce in a recipe risk creating an overly sour bread, or a bread whose structure is completely broken down before it has a chance to rise properly. While you could use sugar, honey, maple syrup, or barley malt in place of the molasses, I find the flavor of the molasses compliments the loaf well. Barley malt would be my second choice, followed by honey, and then sugar.

Caraway

Caraway is optional; its purpose is simply to compliment the rye. This is a classic Czech flavor combination, and may or may not be preferred, depending on your taste preferences.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is naturally weaker, I tend to work it more. This just helps ensure that the dough comes together, and that I get a beautiful rise in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). Therefore, I knead this dough upfront for eight minutes (which is longer than I usually do). The dough will not have a complete windowpane by this point, but should after the first rest. Then, after achieving a windowpane, we can let fermentation do the strengthening and structure the dough through folds.

Bulk Fermentation

Fermentation for this bread is going to be very different than your 100% white flour loaf. The dough will not be able to ferment as long as usual, due to the weaker structure. In fact, I cut fermentation time to almost half of what I usually do. This is all because of the rye.

Please remember that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Shaping

Since we are only making one loaf of bread, it is not necessary to pre-shape the dough. Simply turn it out, and shape it using your preferred method for a boule or batard before adding to your banneton.

Cold Proof

A cold proof is always an option to extend the baking timeline and create flexibility. I choose not to cold ferment this dough, simply because it is so easy to bake all in one day.

Scoring

I am super simple when it comes to scoring. You only need one score, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, to help this loaf expand without cracking all over. I do just this. It is very important to make sure you do not score too deep on this one, since the weak rye will not expand as prominently in the oven as a white flour bread would.

While I used to be picky about scoring angle to achieve the best ear, I now realize that 1) I do not love having one obnoxious piece of burnt crust that contrasts the rest of my loaf so obnoxiously and 2) you will still achieve an ear if all the steps are done correctly. While scoring parallel with the counter will help you gain an even more beautiful and prominent ear, I do not find it necessary. Just score the dough (or don’t, if you prefer a more rustic, cracked look).

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first twenty minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake this in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure your bread has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Because I have a gas oven, it is hard to open bake. I open bake breads that are smaller in size, such as bialy or pan de cristal, but whole loaves do not do well. Therefore, I always use a Dutch oven for bakes like this (lid on for the first half of baking [steam], lid off second half [to firm up the crust]). Currently, that is my Challenger bread pan (which I absolutely love!).

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why is it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with the traditional onion filling. It really is best the first day. The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is A Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

What I Love About This Recipe

There are many who consider bialys to be even better than bagels. Thanks to this recipe, I now fall into that category. I love how simple and familiar the process is, mimicking that of most staple Artisan breads. The bread itself can be incredibly versatile and stuffed with anything you like.  It’s perfect for sandwiches, with cream cheese, or even just served on its own.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of this recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in cornmeal (just like an English muffin) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

The Filling

I chose to keep everything as close to traditional as I possibly could, and that includes the filling. These bialys are stuffed with onions (and breadcrumbs, to absorb moisture) and topped with poppy seeds, but feel free to play around with whatever you like. Some recent bialy variations I have come up with include: jalapeño popper, blueberry cream cheese, and loaded.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.