Sausage wrap rolls were a staple at the breakfast table of my childhood. My mom would buy them from our local grocery store, starting them in the oven early on weekend mornings, leaving their pleasant aroma to fume up the kitchen. These rolls are always a crowd pleaser. They are fluffy and tender, sweet with a savory bite of a cocktail sausage – a match made in heaven.

What Are Sausage Wrap Rolls?

Sausage wrap rolls are a cross between pigs in a blanket and a classic dinner roll. They consist of a mini sausage wrapped in a thin layer of enriched bread dough. These were made popular in the U.S. by Sister Schubert, who no longer sells the product. They were a classic holiday staple, potluck dish, or breakfast entree for many.

Considerations For Enriched Doughs

Enriched doughs, like sausage wrap rolls, contain ingredients that can make it difficult for gluten to come together. Fats (usually butter) and sugars in medium to large amounts mean it is necessary to develop the dough to a windowpane up front, in order to have the best fermentation experience. Without gluten, the dough simply cannot hold in air the same way. A dough that is not developed properly may taste flaky, like a biscuit, instead of tender or airy (as is the goal).

On a scale of 1-10, one being unenriched (like country bread) and 10 being heavily enriched (like panettone), this bread is about a “6” – it contains a medium-high amount of sugar and butter, but not an overly obnoxious amount. With any enriched dough, though, I always resort to my stand mixer for the best experience. You’ll find this dough needs 15-20 minutes of kneading to achieve a windowpane. Especially because of the addition of butter, I always find this process simpler and more efficient using my stand mixer.

Some home mixers are not built for kneading bread efficiently. Check the manual for your mixer, and be sure it is safe to endure mixing times of up to thirty minutes, just to be on the safe side. The most complicated bread in the bread-making world is panettone, which requires mixing times of up to sixty minutes. It is so very important not to overwork the dough or the motor on your mixer. I love my Ankarsrum stand mixer, which is more than capable of living up to the task of kneading even the toughest of doughs. If you do not own a mixer, it is possible to knead by hand, as long as you are willing to endure the task of kneading to a windowpane up front. You can use any preferred method, or find ideas in my video on methods of gluten development, here.

The “Why” Behind The Starter Build

Why Build A Starter (Levain) For This Recipe?

A “sour” flavor is not generally preferred for sweet breads. By building a levain, we can use a formula that helps to reduce overall sourness in the starter and in the bread. To do this, it is important to understand the starter, which consists of yeast and bacteria, and how the formula works to reduce sourness.

Sourness comes when bacteria are overpopulating in your sourdough starter, meaning they are out of balance with the yeast. This happens naturally, as bacteria reproduce faster than yeast do, especially in ideal climates. To limit sourness, it is important to favor the yeast in starter care. In this levain formula, I do just this in order to limit acidity and reduce overall sour flavor.

Stiff Starter

By giving the yeast more food (this means they can continue to eat, multiply, and produce CO2) and reducing the amount of water (bacteria favor wet climates), we can effectively reduce the amount of acidity in our starter at the same percentage of rise as a starter made with equal amounts of flour and water.

Sugar

This is one of the most important components of this levain – do not skip it! Sugar is a powerful tool. Added in low amounts, it feeds the yeast and speeds up fermentation. Added in high amounts, it dehydrates yeast cells and potentially stops fermentation altogether. Added in just the right amount, the yeast still thrive, but the bacteria suffer. 10-15% sugar in a recipe or levain creates something called “osmotic stress.” This stress to the bacteria limits their ability to reproduce, which limits acid buildup, thereby limiting overall sourness coming from the starter.

Temperature

In order to favor the yeast, I aim to keep this levain between 70-75 F (21-24 C) and use it when it has approximately doubled in size. Yeast produce most abundantly in these temperatures, while the bacteria in your starter (there are two types – lactic and acetic) favor temperatures both higher and lower than this. This specific temperature helps provide balance to the starter, which translates to how efficiently the starter ferments the bread and how mild the overall sour flavor is.

Optional Kneading

Have you ever heard of developing gluten in your starter? While it is not essential, kneading this starter for just a few minutes will help trap air, introducing oxygen and stimulating yeast growth. It also provides structure (by creating a slightly more elastic gluten network), which helps the levain rise and maintain peak more efficiently. 

The “Why” Behind The Dough and Process

Milk Mixture

This is a technique that stems from the beginning of my bread journey, when I first started making bread doughs using commercial yeast. I have kept this technique for a long time. Recently, though, I have started to change this technique, moving away from heating my milk, butter, and sugar on the stovetop. This is because a well-kneaded enriched dough gains extra heat through friction during mixing; therefore, heating the ingredients is not necessary (and could even bring too much warmth to the dough, depending on your mixer). Despite this, let me tell you my previous reasoning as to why I created a “milk mixture” in this recipe:

By heating the liquid in the recipe with the sugar and the butter, we are able to simultaneously: a) create warmth that gets the yeast moving quicker, b) fully dissolve the sugar, and c) warm the butter without having to remember to soften a stick beforehand. There is not enough butter in this recipe to create greasy dough, as is the case with brioche, so melting (or, partially melting) it is definitely okay.

Let’s talk about the specific ingredients more in-depth:

Milk + Water

Milk is a tightening agent in bread, meaning it makes the gluten network stiffer and stronger, often increasing the time the dough ferments. This is because it takes twice the air to blow up a stiff balloon (our gluten network). However, it also adds a really good flavor and texture to dinner rolls. It makes the bread denser, softer, and creamier. It also helps the bread darken in the oven. For these reasons, I love to use milk in my sandwich bread recipes, but I also find it is best to balance the milk with water.

Water is the opposite of milk. It creates an extensible gluten network (loose, stretchy). It balances out the stiffness from the milk. It makes the dough lighter and airier. However, water does not really have a flavor and it doesn’t darken in the oven (unless you bake the bread at a really high temperature).

For these reasons, I like to balance these two ingredients accordingly, depending on the outcome I am trying to achieve. For a bread like this, milk is the winner for its tight, even crumb, flavor, and darkening capabilities. I use two parts milk to one part water to make this dough.

Sugar

This recipe contains a medium amount of sugar, roughly 24%. I definitely had to increase the percentage of starter in this recipe in order to accommodate these sweet rolls. This amount of sugar works to sweeten; however, it also has other effects -creating osmotic stress, which helps to reduce sourness, and pulling necessary moisture from the dough (which I have also accounted for in this recipe).

Butter

Butter is a tenderizer; it makes the dough fragile and soft. The amount of butter here is about 15% of the total weight of the flour, small enough to not interfere with the gluten network (too much), but large enough to help keep the bread soft during baking.

Bread Flour

Bread flour increases the strength (elasticity) of the gluten network, which is helpful for enriched doughs containing butter and sugar (ingredients that can interfere with gluten). Bread flour also helps the dough come together more efficiently when kneading, reducing the total amount of necessary mixing time. While I used to make this recipe with a blend of all-purpose flour and bread flour, I now use bread flour only, just for the incredible way it holds the dough together. I use King Arthur Bread Flour, protein content about 12.7%, in any recipe that calls for bread flour (unless otherwise noted).

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it, in addition to milk, helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Eggs

Eggs add moisture and fat to the dough, contributing to a tender texture. They help prevent the buns from becoming too dry, which is particularly important given the enriched nature of the dough. They also act as a binding agent, holding the dough together and providing structure. The proteins in eggs coagulate during baking, helping the buns hold their shape while maintaining a soft crumb.

Furthermore, eggs incorporate air during mixing, which contributes a better fermentation, creating a lighter and fluffier texture. Last, eggs enrich the dough, adding a subtle richness that complements the sweetness of these rolls.

Mixing

Because butter and sugar can interfere with gluten’s natural ability to come together over time, it is preferable to knead this dough to complete development up front. That’s why I choose to use a stand mixer – because the process for this can be kind of enduring by hand (though it is possible). Using a stand mixer ensures a perfectly and effectively built dough with minimum effort on the baker’s part. Watch this video for all the ways to develop gluten in your bread.

I want to be more specific in this updated post about how to develop the dough properly in the stand mixer than I was when I originally published this recipe. This way, you can be successful mixing this dough using any stand mixer, or even by hand.

The ultimate goal: to knead this dough to a windowpane. When you pull up on a section of dough, it should not tear. You should be able to stretch the dough to a point where you can see through it before it breaks. The dough will show other signs of being ready, too, such as clinging to itself or forming a ball around the dough hook. If you have a KitchenAid or similar mixer, the stand mixer may start to “jump” when the dough builds sufficient strength.

The first step to achieving this is to mix the dough on a low to medium-low speed until the ingredients are fully combined and the mixture forms one cohesive mass of dough. This step simply brings our dough together and hydrates the proteins in the flour before the speed is increased and the focus shifts from combining ingredients to forming gluten. Too fast a speed during this initial mix can start to organize gluten that is barely created, negatively impacting the development of the dough.

Next, we increase the speed and knead the dough until it forms a windowpane. The speed you choose is up to you and what your mixer (and dough) can handle. The basic guidelines are this:

• A lower speed will take longer, while a higher speed will knead the dough much faster.
• A lower speed will keep the dough elastic (strong, not stretchy), while a higher speed will create extensibility (stretchiness).
• The dough temperature should not exceed 78 F (26 C).
• Use the guidelines from your mixer to determine what it is able to handle.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it triples in size (about twelve hours – trust me on this one). If you developed the dough well in the stand mixer, it should be able to hold this heavy fermentation. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

The Filling

I bake my sausages before wrapping them in order to dispense any excess grease/moisture that might prohibit the rolls from baking properly in the oven. I prefer the flavor of all-beef sausages, but you can use what you like.

Shaping

This dough is sticky; therefore, it can be helpful to use water, oil, or flour to help with shaping. You may also choose to chill this dough in the refrigerator for a couple hours before shaping as well. I usually choose to use a small bowl of water to dip my fingertips as necessary, though it is important not to oversaturate the dough as you are working with it. Other times, I lean toward a light dusting of flour.

These rolls might seem tricky to shape; however, with the right technique they are so easy. Shaping begins by dividing and forming each section into a round, like an ordinary dinner roll, that is then elongated and wrapped around the sausage. Sometimes the gluten is a little tight after forming the round. In this case, it can be helpful to let the piece of dough you are working with rest while you shape a few more pieces of dough. Then, you can just go right back to it. The dough will stretch and wrap around the sausage much more easily.

The Wash

For this recipe, I chose a honey-butter wash over other options. Butter keeps the rolls soft, while honey adds sweetness and a light brown color. If you ferment these rolls long enough, they will brown beautifully in the oven (see below) without a wash. If under-fermented, they may not brown properly at all. Alternatives to the honey-butter wash include: a simple butter wash (which leans toward softness only) or an egg wash (one whole egg whisked until smooth, which leans toward a darker color only). 

Baking

I bake my milk breads (like this one) at a lower temperature than my water-based breads, usually 350 F (175 C). However, I want these rolls to achieve a deeper brown color in the oven; therefore, I bake them at 375 F (190 C). This “low and slow” temperature is meant to prevent over-browning and over-baking. A final internal temperature of 185 F (85 C) cooks these rolls until they are just done, leaving you with the softest and fluffiest end result. 

Suggested Timelines

Overnight Timeline

Refrigeration Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why was it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with its filling. Fresh from the oven, it’s chewy, yet soft, with a subtly crisp crust and flavor blast in the middle. It really is best the first day, even the first couple of hours.

The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many. It is traditionally stuffed with onions and topped with poppy seeds, though this recipe gives the filling a creative spin.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

What I Love About This Recipe

This has to be my favorite bialy variation so far. Every batch of bialy I made when developing this recipe was demolished within the very same hour it was baked. When fresh, the bialy is still lightly crisp and not obnoxiously chewy, and everything is still warm, making for a super satisfying snack or meal (we like to eat these for brunch).

This recipe was actually the suggestion of my babysitter, who adores loaded fries. The ingredients here are based off of Sonic’s Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries: crispy fries topped with bacon, ranch, and lots of cheese. Here, I use cream cheese to bind everything together, and ranch seasoning for the ranch flavor. The filling is so flavorful; I could make a cheese ball out of it and win appetizer of the year. Pair it with bialy and you have a match made in heaven!

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of my bialy recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C), take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in cornmeal (just like an English muffin) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

The Filling

This recipe was inspired by Sonic’s Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries. This filling is loaded with bacon, cheddar, and the perfect amount of ranch seasoning. Cream cheese holds everything together, and chives are added for color and garnish. I could honestly just eat the filling on it’s own, though it gets a major upgrade when baked with homemade bread, which is perfectly crisp, soft, and chewy right out of the oven.

Cheddar Cheese

Adding extra cheddar cheese at the end of baking simply takes this recipe to the next level. It enhances both flavor and appearance; the perfect final touch.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Sometimes, I have to move away from the chocolate and pull out the citrus. Pair delicate citrus flavors with warm, fluffy layers of pull-apart bread and the subtle crunch of poppy seeds – oh my! This enriched, sweet bread is a joyful twist on classic lemon poppyseed flavors, perfect for breakfast or brunch gatherings, or simply as a treat to brighten your day.

What Is Pull-Apart Bread?

Pull-apart bread is a type of bread divided into separate, small pieces, which are then assembled in a baking dish. During the final proof and bake, the pieces rise and fuse together, but remain distinct enough to easily be pulled apart by hand or with utensils. The pieces are usually coated in butter paired with a sweet or savory flavor combination, which aids in the pull-apart factor.

Considerations For Enriched Doughs

Enriched doughs, like this pull-apart bread, contain ingredients that can make it difficult for gluten to come together. Fats (usually butter) and sugars in medium to large amounts mean it is necessary to develop the dough to a windowpane up front, in order to have the best fermentation experience. Without gluten, the dough simply cannot hold in air the same way. A dough that is not developed properly may taste flaky, like a biscuit, instead of tender or airy (as is the goal).

On a scale of 1-10, one being unenriched (like country bread) and 10 being heavily enriched (like panettone), this bread is about a “5” – it contains a medium amount of sugar and butter, but not an obnoxious amount. With any enriched dough, though, I always resort to my stand mixer for the best experience. You’ll find this dough needs 15-20 minutes of kneading to achieve a windowpane. Especially because of the addition of butter, I always find this process simpler and more efficient using my stand mixer.

Some home mixers are not built for kneading bread efficiently. Check the manual for your mixer, and be sure it is safe to endure mixing times of up to thirty minutes, just to be on the safe side. The most complicated bread in the bread-making world is panettone, which requires mixing times of up to sixty minutes. It is so very important not to overwork the dough or the motor on your mixer. I love my Ankarsrum stand mixer, which is more than capable of living up to the task of kneading even the toughest of doughs. If you do not own a mixer, it is possible to knead by hand, as long as you are willing to endure the task of kneading to a windowpane up front. You can use any preferred method, or find ideas in my video on methods of gluten development, here.

The “Why” Behind The Starter Build

Why Build A Starter (Levain) For This Recipe?

A “sour” flavor is not generally preferred for sweet breads. By building a levain, we can use a formula that helps to reduce overall sourness in the starter and in the bread. To do this, it is important to understand the starter, which consists of yeast and bacteria, and how the formula works to reduce sourness.

Sourness comes when bacteria are overpopulating in your sourdough starter, meaning they are out of balance with the yeast. This happens naturally, as bacteria reproduce faster than yeast do, especially in ideal climates. To limit sourness, it is important to favor the yeast in starter care. In this levain formula, I do just this in order to limit acidity and reduce overall sour flavor.

Stiff Starter

By giving the yeast more food (this means they can continue to eat, multiply, and produce CO2) and reducing the amount of water (bacteria favor wet climates), we can effectively reduce the amount of acidity in our starter at the same percentage of rise as a starter made with equal amounts of flour and water.

Sugar

This is one of the most important components of this levain – do not skip it! Sugar is a powerful tool. Added in low amounts, it feeds the yeast and speeds up fermentation. Added in high amounts, it dehydrates yeast cells and potentially stops fermentation altogether. Added in just the right amount, the yeast still thrive, but the bacteria suffer. 10-15% sugar in a recipe or levain creates something called “osmotic stress.” This stress to the bacteria limits their ability to reproduce, which limits acid buildup, thereby limiting overall sourness coming from the starter.

Temperature

In order to favor the yeast, I aim to keep this levain between 70-75 F (21-24 C) and use it when it has approximately doubled in size. Yeast produce most abundantly in these temperatures, while the bacteria in your starter (there are two types – lactic and acetic) favor temperatures both higher and lower than this. This specific temperature helps provide balance to the starter, which translates to how efficiently the starter ferments the bread and how mild the overall sour flavor is.

Optional Kneading

Have you ever heard of developing gluten in your starter? While it is not essential, kneading this starter for just a few minutes will help trap air, introducing oxygen and stimulating yeast growth. It also provides structure (by creating a slightly more elastic gluten network), which helps the levain rise and maintain peak more efficiently. 

The “Why” Behind The Dough and Process

Tangzhong

Since I chose not to use a tangzhong in my cinnamon roll recipe, which this recipe is based off of, I figured excluding one here would be okay. Oh man, did I prove myself wrong. Tangzhong is magical, and provides impressive fluff and moisture retention to the dough, qualities that can only be achieved through similar techniques (such as yudane or brühstück). This pull-apart bread is not quite as butter-saturated as some of my other enriched doughs, namely brioche and cinnamon rolls, which seems to leave an opening for tangzhong to provide a needed final touch. Learn more about tangzhong here.

While tangzhong is magical, sometimes it is an extra step that we just do not have time for. Do not fear! If you desire to skip the tangzhong in this recipe, I provide the alternative milk and flour measurements at the end of the recipe card.

Buttermilk Mixture

This is a technique that stems from the beginning of my bread journey, when I first started making bread doughs using commercial yeast. I have kept this technique for a long time. Recently, though, I have started to change this technique, moving away from heating my milk, butter, and sugar on the stovetop. This is because a well-kneaded enriched dough gains extra heat through friction during mixing; therefore, heating the ingredients is not necessary (and could even bring too much warmth to the dough, depending on your mixer). Despite this, let me tell you my previous reasoning as to why I created a “buttermilk mixture” in this recipe:

First is a caution: buttermilk curdles easily. Be sure to stir consistently if you use this technique and keep your heat rising at a slow pace. You can also use milk in place of buttermilk.

By heating the liquid in the recipe with the sugar and the butter, we are able to simultaneously: a) create warmth that gets the yeast moving quicker, b) fully dissolve the sugar, and c) warm the butter without having to remember to soften a stick beforehand. There is not enough butter in this recipe to create greasy dough, as is the case with brioche, so melting (or, partially melting) it is definitely okay.

Let’s talk about the specific ingredients more in-depth:

Buttermilk

The truth is, I only discovered buttermilk by accident as I had extra leftover from my long-fermented corn muffin recipe. In all technicality, this ingredient is optional and can be replaced with milk instead. It’s acidic, but I do not find it produces a gross sour flavor. The acidity of the buttermilk, in my opinion, only enhances the acidic flavor being brought to this dish through the lemon. There is not any actual lemon in the dough, and if I had chosen to use a milk + lemon combination instead of buttermilk, it would have the same effect. Altogether, this addition brings complex and fun flavors, but is completely optional.

Sugar

This recipe contains approximately 16% sugar (speaking for the dough only). This is slightly more than just the 10-15% of sugar that is sometimes added to bread to create osmotic stress, meaning I did have to increase the percentage of starter to help this recipe ferment more efficiently. It also means the sugar does work to sweeten the dough (just a bit), while also reducing overall sourness.

Butter

Butter is a tenderizer; it makes the dough fragile and soft. The amount of butter here is about 14% of the total weight of the flour, small enough to not interfere with the gluten network (too much), but large enough to help keep the bread soft during baking.

Bread Flour

Bread flour increases the strength (elasticity) of the gluten network, which is helpful for enriched doughs containing butter and sugar (ingredients that can interfere with gluten). Bread flour also helps the dough come together more efficiently when kneading, reducing the total amount of necessary mixing time. While I used to make this recipe with a blend of all-purpose flour and bread flour, I now use bread flour only, just for the incredible way it holds the dough together. I use King Arthur Bread Flour, protein content about 12.7%, in any recipe that calls for bread flour (unless otherwise noted).

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it, in addition to milk, helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Mixing

Because butter and sugar can interfere with gluten’s natural ability to come together over time, it is preferable to knead this dough to complete development up front. That’s why I choose to use a stand mixer – because the process for this can be kind of enduring by hand (though it is possible). Using a stand mixer ensures a perfectly and effectively built dough with minimum effort on the baker’s part. Watch this video for all the ways to develop gluten in your bread.

I want to be more specific in this updated post about how to develop the dough properly in the stand mixer than I was when I originally published this recipe. This way, you can be successful mixing this dough using any stand mixer, or even by hand.

The ultimate goal: to knead this dough to a clear windowpane. When you pull up on a section of dough, it should not tear. You should be able to stretch the dough to a point where you can see through it before it breaks. The dough will show other signs of being ready, too, such as clinging to itself or forming a ball around the dough hook. If you have a KitchenAid or similar mixer, the stand mixer may start to “jump” when the dough builds sufficient strength.

The first step to achieving this is to mix the dough on a low to medium-low speed until the ingredients are fully combined and the mixture forms one cohesive mass of dough. This step simply brings our dough together and hydrates the proteins in the flour before the speed is increased and the focus shifts from combining ingredients to forming gluten. Too fast a speed during this initial mix can start to organize gluten that is barely created, negatively impacting the development of the dough.

Next, we increase the speed and knead the dough forms a windowpane. The speed you choose is up to you and what your mixer (and dough) can handle. The basic guidelines are this:

• A lower speed will take longer, while a higher speed will knead the dough much faster.
• A lower speed will keep the dough elastic (strong, not stretchy), while a higher speed will create extensibility (stretchiness).
• The dough temperature should not exceed 78 F (26 C).
• Use the guidelines from your mixer to determine what it is able to handle.

Bulk Fermentation

Letting the dough rise as much as possible, but not too much, contributes to the airiest of loaves. In an attempt to favor the yeast and reduce sourness, I recommend keeping the dough temperature between 70-75 F (21-24 C). Watch the dough and ferment until it doubles in size (at least; eight to twelve hours). If you developed the dough well in the stand mixer, you can let it triple in size before shaping. Though I favor an overnight method for this dough, use your knowledge of your environment to bulk ferment this dough appropriately.

The Filling

I tried many techniques for filling and shaping this pull-apart bread, and ultimately landed on creating a paste with softened butter. Melted butter does absolutely no good, as it all seeps to the bottom of the pan during the final proof. Adding the ingredients separately (as I do for my cinnamon rolls) leads to a lot of ingredients falling out during the slicing and stacking process. Making a paste is by far the superior technique and allows the filling to easily be spread from corner to corner of the rolled-out dough.

Sugar + Lemon

By rubbing lemon zest into the sugar, oils are released, contributing to a stronger lemon flavor.

Softened Butter

By using softened butter, we can effectively spread the butter (unlike cold butter) all over the dough and shape the mini loaves without fear of the butter pooling on the bottom of the pans (unlike melted butter) during the final proof.

Shaping

To shape this pull-apart bread, I chose to position the loaf pan vertically and stack the slices. This makes them easier to stack without having the slices falling over during the process. The slices will not reach the top of the pan, and that is perfectly okay. It is necessary for the slices to have room to expand during the final proof and bake, so they need to be loose and sort of spread out after they are stacked. To do this, I take my finger and place it on the top slice while I reposition the loaf pan horizontally. This keeps the slices from tipping over. Then, I give the pan a little shake to loosen and evenly distribute the pieces before their final proof.

Baking

These loaves are simple to bake, as they do not require the preparation of steam or a wash. Milk, sugar, and a good fermentation will cause perfect browning in the oven. I bake my milk breads (like this one) at a lower temperature than my water-based breads: 350 F (175 C). This “low and slow” temperature prevents over-browning and over-baking. A final internal temperature of 185 F (85 C) cooks these loaves until they are just done, leaving you with the softest and fluffiest end result. 

Cream Cheese Frosting

The final touch and perfect garnish. Though you don’t have to have it, I wouldn’t skip it.

Suggested Timelines

Overnight Timeline

Refrigeration Timeline

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

Bialy: The Most Versatile, Underrated Bread

I first discovered bialy in the sourdough cookbook “Wild Bread” by MaryJane Butters. Her book was my first introduction to sourdough, though I have long since diverted from her techniques. Still, I go back to her book for recipe inspiration and ‘bialy’ had been one on my list. 

After intense research on the bread, I was so excited when I recreated it in my own kitchen. It had to be in my top ten list of favorite breads… but why is it so unheard of?

Bialy has a limited shelf life, due to the nature of the bread in combination with the traditional onion filling. It really is best the first day. The bread was brought to the United States by Jews fleeing from Poland, yet ended up being forgotten in Poland (replaced with a similar bread called “cebularz”) and never made it outside of New York in the USA, leaving the bread unknown by many.

This bread has so much potential and can be incredibly versatile. I hope to give it a second life through my blog.

What Is A Bialy?

A bialy is a type of bread roll that originated in the Jewish communities of Białystok, Poland. It is round like a bagel, only with an indention (not a hole) in the center that is traditionally filled with onions and topped with poppy seeds. It is known as the “Jewish English Muffin” and, by some, considered a cross between a bagel and an English muffin. In the United States, it is well-known in New York, but not really elsewhere due to its limited shelf-life. 

What I Love About This Recipe

There are many who consider bialys to be even better than bagels. Thanks to this recipe, I now fall into that category. I love how simple and familiar the process is, mimicking that of most staple Artisan breads. The bread itself can be incredibly versatile and stuffed with anything you like.  It’s perfect for sandwiches, with cream cheese, or even just served on its own.

All The “Why’s”

Bread Flour

Here’s the thing about artisan bread: most of the gluten is developed through time during the slow fermentation process. You see, as dough rests, gluten comes together naturally and fermentation provides strength. Bread flour contains more gluten binding proteins, which naturally create a stronger network that traps air and helps the loaf ferment more efficiently. I use King Arthur Bread Flour in most recipes that calls for “bread flour” because of its higher protein content (12.7%) and excellent ability to form gluten.

Salt

Salt helps bring out flavor (without salt, bread would taste almost like nothing), but also has notable effects on the dough. Salt is a tightening agent, meaning it helps create a more elastic (strong) dough. It does slow fermentation, as well as gluten development, but these are things we must account for in the recipe because we cannot have a recipe without salt. It is important to use just the right amount, enough to bring out the flavor, but not so much that the loaf cannot ferment or come together. I use the standard – 2% salt – in all my recipes, unless otherwise noted.

Hydration

Hydration simply refers to the amount of water in a recipe. The hydration of this recipe is average (moderate hydration), resting at about 70%. This means the process for developing this dough looks very much like your standard country loaf of sourdough, and is also identical to that of an English muffin. The hydration of this bread, in combination with the baking method, is responsible for the chewy outcome. Unlike a bagel, which is made from a stiff dough to create a dense and soft texture, this moderate hydration dough creates a lighter, airier texture and is also responsible for the bialy’s more open crumb and distinct chew.

Dough and Gluten Development

Because this dough is unenriched (no fat, sugar, etc.) and because our sourdough starter works slowly, gluten develops naturally over time. This means we can let fermentation do most of the strengthening of our bread, aerating it and building structure, while we take time to fold the dough, which helps fermentation do its best work.

I chose to develop this dough by hand through a hybrid of kneading and stretch-and-folds. Kneading this dough twice contributes to a more elastic dough, which just means it holds together better and rises tall in the oven. I’ve recently come to see the benefits of kneading bread dough in order to develop more of the gluten up front (which helps the loaf ferment better). In all actuality, if you know what you are looking for in regards to proper development of both extensibility and elasticity, you can develop this dough using any of your favorite methods.

Bulk Fermentation

It is important to note that fermentation varies significantly depending on temperature and climate. My home generally rests around 68-72 F (20-22 C), so my fermentation times are very extended from someone whose home rests around 75 F (24 C), or even warmer. Always watch the dough and read your baked loaf as best as possible to be able to determine necessary adjustments for your next attempt. The goal is to ferment the dough as long as possible, but not to overproof. The longer the dough ferments, the lighter and airier your bread will be.

Generally, loaves that ferment around 70 F (21 C; this is the temperature I ferment my dough) take about 12 hours to bulk ferment. Colder climates, say 65 F (18 C) take a very long time, a minimum of 16 hours, and sometimes longer. Increase the temperature to 73-75 F (23-24 C), and the bulk fermentation time is reduced to around 9 hours. Last, very warm temperatures, 78-80 F (25-27 C) generally take only 4 hours to complete fermentation. All in all, your dough is in your hands, and in your climate.

Shaping

The shaping method for a bialy is a bit different from other kinds of bread. The dough is divided and shaped into rounds, then coated in cornmeal (just like an English muffin) and left for the final proof. Just before baking, the dough is shaped again. The center of the round is indented and expanded in order to hold the classic onion filling. It is very important to make the center as thin as possible (without tearing) and press out most of the air in order to prevent it from popping up like pita bread in the oven.

The Filling

I chose to keep everything as close to traditional as I possibly could, and that includes the filling. These bialys are stuffed with onions (and breadcrumbs, to absorb moisture) and topped with poppy seeds, but feel free to play around with whatever you like. Some recent bialy variations I have come up with include: jalapeño popper, blueberry cream cheese, and loaded.

Baking Method: Temperature

The best oven spring and crumb comes from baking the dough hot and fast. I chose a temperature of 500 F to give the dough the best “pop” in the oven, which lends a beautiful crumb and a perfect, matte crust.

Baking Method: Steam

Use steam for the first ten minutes of baking to help the dough expand properly. For this recipe, I leave the steam method open because I believe everyone has a preferred method for steaming their oven for bread that is right for their oven. You could bake these in a Challenger Bread Pan, or you could simply use boiling water or ice on the bottom of the oven to create the right amount of steam. The main goal: make sure the bialy has the ability to expand to its maximum potential before the crust begins to harden.

Suggested Timelines

Daytime Baking Timeline

Overnight Baking Timeline

Cold-Ferment Timeline

Other Bialy Variations

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.

This recipe holds so much nostalgia for me. I based this sourdough version off of a recipe my mother used to make, one I keep in my family recipe box called, “Mama’s Favorite Banana Bread,” which is from a very old cookbook she used to keep around just to make this bread. This original process of converting that recipe to sourdough was gnarly, as this was the first recipe I had ever converted that contained no additional moisture from liquids like water or milk. Bananas and eggs do all the heavy lifting, and it does not make sense to take away from either in order to add and balance sourdough discard. To keep the balance, I only add a small amount discard (if you know me, you know I like to use a lot – as much as possible in any given recipe – so this is a bit of a bummer, but is what it is). Since first writing this recipe, I have come to a deeper understanding of how each ingredient plays a part in the whole, and I am excited to be able to share this information with you now.

What Is Banana Bread?

If you are not familiar with banana bread, it is a type of sweet, baked quick bread made with overripe, mashed bananas. The bananas provide a natural moisture and sweetness to the bread, though sugar is still usually added to the batter. It is extremely popular in North America, but has become a classic and beloved baked good in many households across the world.

What I Love About This Recipe

It is the cream cheese that makes this recipe so special. Mom always told me that was “the secret,” but I never understood it until I tried the alternatives. Adding cream cheese to this batter is similar to using sour cream or yogurt in any quick bread recipe, only there is something about the texture and moisture retention of the cream cheese that cannot be mimicked. It makes for an extremely smooth bread with a rich flavor that does not easily dry out. I honestly do not know if I could ever not use cream cheese as a quick bread base after realizing just how pleasantly it transforms the result.

This recipe also easily adapts to whatever pan you want to make it in. Whether it is a standard loaf pan, bundt pan, mini pans, or muffin pans, this recipe will work. The batter is not too wet, meaning flour provides structure and helps it rise beautifully in the oven, without spilling over the edges.

All The “Why’s”

Cream Cheese

Most quick breads contain a base made with two sticks of softened butter. Others add yogurt or sour cream. While this can be good, in my opinion, cream cheese is better. Though this recipe still contains butter, which is necessary for moisture retention, cream cheese brings a unique richness, texture, and even more moisture to the final bake. The final, overall flavor and consistency is elevated significantly and the loaf does not dry out as quickly.

Sugar

Sugar is mainly used as a sweetener in this quick bread. This means you can increase or reduce the amount to your personal preference. While I left this recipe very sweet, adding an entire cup of sugar to mirror the nostalgia of my childhood, I know there are many who would prefer to allow only the sweetness of bananas to shine. Sugar has other important contributions, too; it aids in browning, tenderizing, moisture retention, and preservation/shelf life. Therefore, I would not recommend removing it completely.

Butter

While fat can have many purposes in a recipe, one major effect is moisture retention. Without it, the loaf would be dry and crumbly, even with the cream cheese and sugar (which also work to retain moisture). Butter pairs well with the flavors of this dish, and serves just this purpose: to keep the loaf from drying out.

Sourdough Discard

The main purpose of sourdough discard is, well, to use sourdough discard. Unfortunately, the amount I use in this recipe is limited (if you know me, you know I like to use as much as possible in any given recipe), as banana bread gets most of its moisture from bananas and eggs, leaving little room for the additional moisture from the sourdough discard.

Bananas

Bananas are the star of the show in banana bread; they add moisture, flavor, and sweetness. Ripe bananas are key; I like to use them when they are very dark. As bananas ripen, their starches are converted into sugars and moisture is released, which just means the older, the better. It also means that the time you use the banana in relation to its ripeness will effect the outcome of your bread, creating a wetter or dryer batter.

Eggs

The more eggs you add to your bread, the more cake-like the bread becomes. Eggs add fluff and moisture, as well as make your bread lighter and taller. I find two eggs to be the perfect balance: it is not too cake-like, but is also not too dense.

All-Purpose Flour

While I do try to eliminate flour in some of my discard recipes, it is not possible with this one. Flour adds necessary structure to an otherwise loose batter. I like to have a lot of structure in my banana bread, so I use more flour compared to other recipes you can find on the internet. Even still, it is important to measure correctly by volume, or just use the weighted measurements instead. Flour is one of the most inaccurate ingredients measured by volume, and too much flour can cause a dry and crumbly loaf.

It is also important to note that all-purpose flour is superior to bread flour in any quick bread recipe. In fact, the lower the protein content, the better. Though I have not tested it, cake flour may even work wonders. The problem is: cake flour is not a staple ingredient in many homes; therefore, I choose not to base a recipe off of it unless it is absolutely necessary. The reason all-purpose flour is important is the same reason we mix this batter until “just incorporated” – gluten development is not desired. The development of gluten produces a chewy texture, which is not desirable in baked goods, such as banana bread. Banana bread is meant to be moist and tender, with a soft crumb that’s slightly dense but not heavy – meaning we need to eliminate gluten to achieve it.

Leavening

This recipe uses a balance of baking powder and baking soda to leaven the bread, rather than the sourdough discard. This means you can bake your bread right away, without waiting for sourdough to do its magic. I prefer chemical leavening for sourdough discard recipes because we are using starter that is not in its prime state, and may not leaven well. While it is true that the addition of flour feeds the yeast, and you may get a slow rise, sourdough-discard-leavened bread has the potential to be more sour, due to the ever populating bacteria (which are responsible for the sour flavor) and still may not rise properly. Not to mention how the other ingredients in this quick bread would hold up during this waiting period, namely the bananas.

If you want to try long fermentation, do it in the refrigerator and wait to add the baking powder and soda until you are ready to bake. While the yeast in your starter will not function well (due to the cold temperatures), the bacteria will still work to break down the flour during this time. Still adding the baking powder and soda ensures you get a loaf that has been appropriately aerated (since the yeast from your discard will not be able to adequately do this on their own).

Salt

Salt brings out flavor. I use just a touch in this recipe to enhance all the flavors in this quick bread.

Inclusions

While many banana bread recipes use nuts, I grew up with chocolate chips as the one and only inclusion for this dish. As an adult, I realize this is not what most people expect from banana bread, and I have come to be fond of the nuts. Therefore, I do a 50/50 split of nuts and chocolate (preferably mini chocolate chips, for they spread throughout the bread better). But, you can do whatever you want. The base is one cup total of inclusions, but really this is flexible depending on your preference.

Quick Tip: Read the recipe in its entirety before you start cooking. This will help you understand the ingredients, steps, and timing involved, and allow you to prepare any necessary equipment or ingredients beforehand.