My sourdough bread recipes include any recipe leavened with active sourdough starter. My goal with sourdough bread recipes is to make the best version of the bread I can possibly make in my home kitchen. When I make these recipes, I go through a basic process that includes research, math, trial and error, and then recipe modification, until I am satisfied with the recipe. 

Each recipe begins with research. Some recipes are a complete creation of my own, in which I skip to the math portion of the process based on my goals for the recipe. Other recipes, such as focaccia or hot cross buns, already have some sort of baseline. In this case, I must research the recipe to determine the desired outcomes of the bread, typical ingredients the bread consists of, and the traditional process for making the bread. Though I may change things up, whether to simplify the process, modify ingredients, or include steps to make the bread better, understanding the recipe gives me the necessary baseline to get started.

After thoroughly researching the recipe, I put together my own recipe based on the knowledge I have gathered. In some cases, such as with four-ingredient doughs, I use baker’s math to create a starting formula, and then proceed to determine the best process through trial and error. Other times, I base my recipes off of previous recipes I have put together. Because each ingredient added to a dough is significant, I must make adjustments to proportions, timelines, etc. in order for the recipe to work as it is intended to.

Once a basic recipe has been written, I head to the kitchen and make it. The first try is rarely a win. Based on the results of my kitchen trials, I adjust the recipe ingredients and proportions, as well as the process. Sometimes, I try the recipe more than one way just to see which way would be better. (Should I include more or less of a particular ingredient? How will that affect the outcome? Should I fry the English muffins over low heat, or use a combination of frying over high heat and baking in the oven? What is the most efficient way to shape the dough?) I ask myself a series of questions about each recipe and method, and try each possibility at least once to know which one creates the desired result.

Once I am satisfied with the recipe, I begin the process of filming for social media. With these trials, I am setting in stone my process and making sure my written recipe works out properly. I always taste the recipe again to make sure the results are satisfactory.

And, that’s it! After that, I photograph the end result and write it up for this website.

Over time, my ideas on what makes good bread change. There may be recipes I was once proud of that I later feel need modifications. There may be recipes that I feel could be improved by including or changing certain things I hadn’t thought of the first go-around. I many end up deleting recipes, only to re-do them in the future, or noting that certain videos need modifications. I think this is part of my learning and growing journey as a baker, one I do not think will ever end. I am not a perfect baker, though I strive to be the best I can. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the recipes I have to offer!

My Sourdough Discard Recipes

My sourdough discard recipes include any recipe that uses sourdough starter, whether active or inactive, as a component of the recipe, but not as a leaven. My process and goals for these recipes are a little bit different than the process and goals for my sourdough bread recipes.

My goal with sourdough discard recipes is always to include the maximum amount of sourdough starter in the recipe that I can, while still accomplishing a version of the recipe that is tasteful and functions as close to the non-sourdough version of the recipe as possible.

In addition to using as much sourdough discard as possible, I seek to keep the recipe as simple as possible. Depending on the recipe, it may not be incredibly simple or include less than five ingredients, but it will always be the best, simplest, and most sourdough version of the recipe it can be. For some recipes, that means using only one-half cup of discard, while for others it is possible to use upwards of three cups of discard with satisfactory results!

Just like with my sourdough bread recipes, I begin by researching the recipe. What are the essential components of the non-sourdough version of the recipe and why? I take my knowledge and write out a generic version of the recipe. I use basic math to include sourdough starter in the recipe, modifying all ingredients to keep similar proportions to the original recipe.

Sourdough starter does change certain factors of the recipe, due to its fermented state. For example, due to the acids in the starter, the choice between using baking soda or baking powder (or a combination of both) is different than in a recipe that includes no sourdough at all. Therefore, I test the recipe and make adjustments accordingly. I continue modifying and adjusting the recipe until the results are satisfactory and mimic a non-sourdough version of the recipe.

Once I am satisfied with the recipe, I begin the process of filming for social media. With these trials, I am setting in stone my process and making sure my written recipe works out properly. I always taste the recipe again to make sure the results are satisfactory.

And, of course, when it comes to sourdough discard recipes, I love to invent my own as well. Sometimes I make something out of my sourdough discard that is completely unheard of, yet an absolutely fun and delightful way to use it up. For this process, I use my knowledge of how various ingredients work together to create a product that gives a desired outcome. I keep the goal of simplicity, especially for these recipes. An example of this would be my McGriddle Sheet Pan Breakfast.

And, that’s it! After that, I photograph the end result and write it up for this website.

As time has gone on, and continues to go on, I learn more and more about how quick breads work, as well as how sourdough discard functions in various recipes. Their components are not the same as sourdough-leavened breads, and it has taken me some time to figure out. As I figure things out, I feel my previous work is gipped! The more I learn, the more I desire to change and/or simplify some of my older recipes. Alas, I do not have the time to go back and change everything as I learn something new, so I keep my old recipes and more forward, seeking to do better each time, and occasionally re-doing an old recipe. I am not a perfect baker, though I strive to be the best I can be. In the meantime, I hope you can enjoy the recipes I have to offer!

What Is Autolyse?

The term “autolyse” originates from the Greek roots:

• “auto-“ meaning “self.”
• “-lyse” derived from “lysis”, meaning “to break down” or “to dissolve.”

Literally, the word “autolyse” means something like “self-breakdown.” It describes how starches and proteins in the dough naturally break down on their own during a rest period, without anyone doing anything to it.

In bread-making, to “autolyse” means to mix flour and water together (just flour and water – nothing else) and let it rest for a period of time before adding other ingredients, such as sourdough starter and salt. Bakers have varying opinions on the best length of time to autolyse, some autolysing for just twenty minutes, others a few hours, and still others overnight.

The technique was developed by French baker, professor, and biochemist Raymond Calvel to address the decline in bread quality caused by industrial baking methods. He noticed that fast, aggressive kneading using stand mixers produced bread with poor flavor, texture, and lighter color. To restore traditional French bread’s qualities, Calvel researched dough development and discovered that letting flour and water rest before adding yeast and salt significantly improved dough quality. Calvel introduced the autolyse method in his 1990 book, Le Goût du Pain (The Taste of Bread), which quickly gained popularity among artisan bakers and became a cornerstone in crafting traditional French breads and artisanal loaves. Today, it is widely used in both professional and home baking for its simplicity and ability to improve bread quality.

During autolyse, a few important processes occur: 

1. The flour is fully hydrated. During the rest period, the flour will absorb all of the water (well, depending on how long you autolyse for) that has been added to it. Not only does this make the dough easier to handle (it is far less sticky), it also activates enzymes present in the flour that begin developing gluten naturally.
   • NOTE: Applying this technique to whole grain breads can be very helpful. Whole grains tend to absorb a lot of water, but they struggle to take it in all at once. Autolysing allows an initial portion of water to be absorbed, which hydrates the grains, making them easier to work with. Then, more water can be added to achieve the desired consistency (this is called “bassinage”), which not only helps develop gluten, but also keeps the dough from becoming extremely stiff later in the process.
2. Gluten development is initiated. Just by mixing flour and water, gluten will come together on its own – without you having to do any work. In fact, your dough will go through the whole process of developing gluten and then breaking it down completely (if it’s left for too long) without you having to do anything at all. Without autolyse, baker’s have to knead by hand or by mixer to develop the gluten, which is vital to building dough strength and trapping air. Depending on how long the autolyse is, kneading can be reduced, significantly reduced, or even completely eliminated.
   • NOTE: Many home sourdough bakers do not knead their dough anyway. They mix, and then follow with folds to develop gluten and dough strength. This works for a slow fermentation because the time it takes for gluten to form naturally in relation to the amount of air produced during that time is minimal. However, when using commercial yeast, where up-front kneading is essential (due to the quick fermentation), the transformative powers of autolyse can be incredibly helpful to prevent over-working and over-oxidizing the dough.
3. Enzymes are activated. During autolyse, two enzymes (protease and amylase) begin working. Protease begins breaking down proteins, which makes the dough more extensible (stretchy). This extensibility is necessary to helping the dough expand (imagine having to blow up a rubber tire!). Meanwhile, amylase begins converting starch to sugar, which helps kickstart the fermentation process; as yeast feed on sugars, they release CO2, which is responsible for “blowing up” our bread dough.
   • NOTE: The enzymatic activity that occurs during autolyse is only good to an extent. Eventually, the enzymes will completely break down the flour and begin the process of creating a sourdough starter. The amount of enzymatic activity that occurs during this time depends on the flour (how fresh it is and how many whole grains it contains) as well as the temperature of the water added and the temperature of the room it is allowed to rest in. Warmer temperatures speed up enzymatic activity, while cooler temperatures slow it down.

A Summary Of The Science Of Autolyse

During the autolyse period, the flour absorbs water, which helps it fully hydrate. The proteins in the flour, called glutenin and gliadin, and the starches soak up the water. As the dough rests, glutenin and gliadin start to come together and form gluten on their own. This means we don’t need to knead the dough a lot. 

The gluten network is very important because it traps gas that yeast produces during fermentation. This gas helps the bread rise and gives it a nice texture.

At the same time, two important enzymes, amylase and protease, are activated. Amylase breaks down the starches in the flour into simpler sugars. These sugars are crucial because they feed the yeast while it works, leading to better fermentation and more flavor in the bread. Protease breaks down the proteins in the flour into smaller pieces called peptides and amino acids. This helps soften the dough and makes it easier to stretch, which is important for developing gluten.

A strong gluten network formed during the autolyse period is better at holding the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. This can help the bread rise higher and have a better crumb structure.

Thanks to the activity of the enzymes and the efficiency of fermentation that happen during autolyse, the flavor and aroma of the bread improve. The enzymes, amylase and protease, help create flavor precursors. These precursors are then used by the yeast during fermentation to enhance the bread’s taste and smell.

Potential Benefits And Drawbacks Of Autolyse

Potential Benefits Of Autolyse

• Gluten develops naturally, which means you don’t have to knead the dough as much. The autolyse method promotes the natural development of gluten without extensive kneading. It, therefore, reduces, significantly reduces, or eliminates the need for kneading altogether, depending on the specific technique used. This is especially important when commercial yeast are used, as the dough ferments much faster than a dough made with wild yeast (sourdough). Autolyse can save time and reduce the risk of over-working or over-oxidizing the dough, both of which can lead to a denser crumb.
• The dough is able to ferment better. Improved gluten means improved ability to retain air from fermentation right from the start, and can mean a stronger dough, depending on the length of the autolyse. The activation of enzymes, namely amylase and protease, break down starches into sugars (helping the bread rise and taste sweet) and proteins into peptides (helping the dough become stronger and giving the bread a better texture), which also result in a better fermentation.

Potential Drawbacks Of Autolyse

Preparation Differences

Autolyse seemingly adds an extra step to the process, which may create a scheduling complexity for some with tight or busy schedules. However, the fact of the matter is, that the process just looks different. The trade-off to autolyse is minimal mixing. The way I see it, you are either mixing your dough for fifteen to twenty minutes to develop the gluten or you are mixing the flour and water, waiting a bit, then adding the rest of the ingredients until just incorporated (two to three minutes). While incorporating the ingredients after flour and water have coagulated can be more difficult, developing gluten by hand can be more difficult as well, just in a different way.

A common practice among self-taught sourdough bakers nowadays is to mix all the ingredients up-front until a shaggy dough forms (no kneading), let it rest, then develop gluten through folds. This is a completely different, and potentially uninformed, mindset around gluten. In fact, I know it very well because (as you can see from the artisanal bread recipes on my blog) I used to use this method. (Don’t worry, the recipes will be updated as soon as I can get to them.) While this method does work, it isn’t the best if you are looking for the highest quality of bread, and it especially is not the best if you’re seeking open crumb. If you want the most aerated loaf possible – a bread that is extremely light, fluffy, airy – then you must trap air. With autolyse, you can gain a gluten network that has the potential to trap air from the start without any work. The only other way to do this is to knead your dough to a windowpane during mixing (which has its own pros and cons). All this to say that, yes, you can skip the autolyse and the extended mixing, but without either of these things you’re lacking necessary gluten that will help the dough trap air and give you a quality fermentation.

Inconsistent Results With Different Flours

Different flours mean different levels enzymatic activity. Enzymatic activity is simply how quickly enzymes in your flour work (remember the amylase and protease mentioned before?). Some flours, particularly fresh flours or whole grain flours, have increased levels of enzymatic activity, meaning they break down faster than other flours and aren’t suitable for the same lengths of autolyse as grocery-store white flours. This means the best time frame for autolyse not only varies depending on your process and preference, but also on what type of flour you use.

Potential For Over-Autolyse

Everything is good in moderation, and it is no different when it comes to autolyse. While autolyse naturally develops gluten, it also breaks it down. If you autolyse for too long, the reverse of all the potential benefits will occur. The dough will lose its structure, become overly extensible, slack, and sticky, and will be difficult to shape and handle. The result? A flat loaf.

Autolyse Versus Fermentolyse

Autolyse

During autolyse, only flour and water are mixed together and allowed to rest for a period of time before other ingredients are added.

Benefits include –

• Hydration: Ensures thorough hydration of the flour.
• Gluten development: Starts the gluten formation process, reducing kneading time.
• Enzyme activity: Activates enzymes that improve dough texture and flavor.
• Improved handling: Makes dough more extensible and less sticky.

Fermentolyse

During fermentolyse, flour, water, and sourdough starter are mixed together and allowed to rest for a period of time before other ingredients, namely salt, are added. This is also known as “fermentation autolyse,” as it combines the aspects of both autolyse and fermentation.

Benefits include –

• Early fermentation: Fermentation begins during the resting period, which can develop more complex flavors.
• Gluten development: Similar to autolyse, but the presence of yeast can slightly accelerate the process.
• Improved dough consistency: Like autolyse, fermentolyse helps in achieving better dough texture and handling.

Key Differences

Ingredients

• Autolyse: Only flour and water are mixed initially.
• Fermentolyse: Flour, water, and sourdough starter are mixed initially.

Fermentation

• Autolyse: Fermentation begins after the initial rest period when sourdough starter is added.
• Fermentolyse: Fermentation starts during the initial rest period.

Choosing Between Autolyse and Fermentolyse

There is one thing to consider regarding the addition of the sourdough starter earlier in the process. Fermentation begins as soon as the starter is added. This means the wild yeast and bacteria from your starter begin working immediately. These microorganisms not only contribute to the breaking down of flour, they also off-put gases that inflate the dough. Without gluten, these initial gases may be lost. The extent to which this affects the dough depends entirely on your process and the state of your sourdough starter.

These two techniques also have different purposes. Autolyse is meant to give a head-start to gluten-development. While this is the main goal, another plus is the extensibility gained from the rest period as proteins begin breaking down. Conversely, fermentolyse is meant to gain a head-start on extensibility. Salt tightens the dough, which just means it creates a balloon with a thicker skin that takes a bit more air to blow up. Salt also slows the ability of the gluten to come together, just like any tightening agent. Therefore, fermentolyse gives a chance for gluten to form and microorganisms to start blowing up the dough before tightening agents that could interfere with this process, like salt, are added.

Both methods can greatly improve bread quality. Some bakers even combine the methods: they first autolyse, then add the starter, letting the dough rest again before adding the salt. The choice depends on what the baker wants to achieve and the specific qualities they are aiming for in their bread.

If Gluten Is Already Developed, Why Do I Still Need To Fold The Dough?

This is an incredibly complex question, but I will attempt to answer it as simply as possible.

There are two types of strength in our dough. One comes from the gluten and the tightening agents (such as salt) that are added to it. This kind of strength is what I like to relate to the rubber on a balloon. If the structure is too weak, it is super thin and stretchy, and will pop easily when air is added to it. If it is too strong, it is really hard to blow up because it cannot stretch well, requiring copious amounts of air to get any sort of expansion. The goal when it comes to gluten strength is to create the right balance for the bread we are making.

The other kind of strength comes from fermentation. Think of your bread dough as a bag full of those rubber balloons. When the balloons are empty, the dough is easily pliable. You can move it or bend it every which way. This is a weak dough. When the balloons are filled to their max, it is hard to manipulate the bag of balloons without popping one, if you can even fold it at all. This is a very strong dough. It is important to have balance here, too, because we have to be able to shape our dough, as well as leave room for expansion in the oven.

What folds do is provide tension. If you’ve ever messed with your dough long enough, you’ll notice that it gets really tight and hard to manipulate, but if you let it rest for fifteen to twenty minutes, it relaxes and you are able to work with it some more. Think of each fold, how the dough stretches less and less each time, until it won’t stretch anymore. Then, you let it rest a bit and you are able to fold the dough again. This is tension. The dough tightens for a bit, gaining structure and strength in the moment, that is soon released as the dough has a chance to relax.

Tension helps the dough as it’s gaining strength from fermentation. It gives a loose dough structure for a moment. When the dough relaxes (begins to look flat and sad in the bowl) it is time to add tension again. Eventually, you won’t need to add tension anymore because fermentation has provided enough strength that the dough will stand firm.

Now, it is possible to have a dough whose gluten is so elastic that it does not need folds. This is usually the case with doughs that are mixed to full development in a stand mixer. However, if you are using autolyse to develop, or begin developing, the gluten, in most cases you will still need to create tension through folds.

Is Autolyse Necessary To Develop Gluten or Extensibility In My Dough?

No. Autolyse is not necessary to develop either of these things. Gluten can be developed through kneading, whether by hand or by mixer, and it develops over time as your dough rests. Extensibility can also be developed in a mixer or over time through the natural fermentation process.

What Kind Of Bread Should Be Autolysed?

Arguably, it is not essential for any bread to be autolysed for a desirable outcome. However, autolyse can be a helpful tool in the sourdough baker’s toolbox.

Autolyse is commonly used for artisanal breads. While the word “artisanal” can be vague and have a variety of interpretations, here it is meant as any bread made by hand, generally consisting of a hydration of at least 70% (because at this hydration, the dough is easier to mix by hand). These breads typically consist of only four ingredients: flour, water, sourdough starter, and salt, though they may sometimes include small amounts of oil, sweetener, or other flavoring ingredients that do not have a significant interference with gluten’s natural ability to come together. Examples of artisanal breads include: country bread baguettes, and focaccia. (NOTE: The recipes linked here do NOT include autolyse.)

It may not a good idea to use autolyse for breads that are very low in hydration. The stiff dough may make other ingredients in the recipe hard to incorporate. Conversely, it may not be a good idea to autolyse doughs with a high percentage of flours that are highly extensible, such as spelt, though I still find myself doing this from time to time. While extensibility is good and necessary, it is also weakness. The enzymatic activity that creates extensibility in most flours may break down an already extensible flour, resulting in over-autolyse (from which there is no return).

Last, I typically do not autolyse highly enriched doughs, such as brioche. This is because the high percentage of enrichments interferes with gluten, so it makes more sense to develop the dough in a stand mixer.

Is A Longer Autolyse Better?

This answer to this is completely a matter of personal preference and depends on your process, the environment, and the type of flour being used. The longer the autolyse, the more the gluten develops and the more extensible the dough becomes. This can be incredibly beneficial in the right conditions.

It is best to perform a longer autolyse in cooler temperatures (below 70 F [21 C]). Warmer temperatures accelerate enzymatic activity, which can lead to over-autolyse if left for too long. Conversely, cooler temperatures slow enzymatic activity, meaning a long autolyse can be done in the refrigerator, if desired. (In this instance, bring the dough back up to room temperature before you add the starter).

A longer autolyse can be magical when using the right flour. For example, a high protein white bread flour, such as King Arthur Bread Flour, would do well with an overnight, twelve-hour, autolyse in cooler temperatures (70 F or below). Meanwhile, flours that are highly extensible (ex – spelt) or contain increased enzymatic activity (ex – rye) may not benefit from a longer autolyse, potentially resulting in a sticky, unmanageable dough.

Altogether, the answer to this is not set in stone. The desired duration of autolyse can vary depending on flour choice, strengthening goals, and even environment. Shorter autolyse periods (fifteen to thirty minutes) can still provide benefits, while longer autolyse periods (up to an hour or more) can further enhance dough properties. However, too long an autolyse can result in a slack dough that is difficult to handle. Experimentation may be required to determine what is best in your own home with the flours and methods you prefer to use.

How To Add Autolyse To Your Favorite Bread Recipe

Adding autolyse to your favorite bread recipe is simple. To demonstrate, let me first walk you through a sample recipe that does not use autolyse.

Original recipe:

1. Mix all ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Cover and rest 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Over the next 2-3 hours, perform four to six sets of folds, spaced about 30 minutes apart.
3. Let the dough rest until it has doubled in size.
4. Shape the dough.
5. Let the dough rest on the counter 1-3 more hours, or place in the refrigerator overnight.
6. Bake at 450 F in a Dutch oven for 25 minutes with the lid on, 20 minutes with the lid off.
7. Cool at least 30 minutes before slicing.
8. Enjoy!

To add autolyse to this recipe, we will only change steps one and two.

You will also notice that I changed the order of ingredients in the ingredient list. When mixing the ingredients all at once, it is easier to mix the sourdough starter and water together before adding the flour and salt. When using the autolyse method, flour and water are mixed together and left to rest before sourdough starter and salt are added, thereby changing the order that the ingredients are added to the bowl.

Modified recipe:

1. Mix together flour and water in a mixing bowl. Cover and rest for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours. NOTE: It is possible to do an autolyse of up to 12 hours if your flour can handle it. I recommend starting with the shorter time (2 hours or less), then increasing your time as you become experienced and get a feel for your flour. A longer autolyse should be done in cooler temperatures (less than 70 F [21 C]). You can utilize the refrigerator for this process, if desired.
2. After the flour and water have autolysed and formed a windowpane, add the sourdough starter. Work in the starter for five to six minutes, until well incorporated. Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. NOTE: It is possible to add sourdough starter and salt at the same time. This is completely personal preference. If you want to add them in the same go, I recommend working in the starter for 2-3 minutes on its own before adding the salt. Then, work in the salt and starter together for the remaining time.
3. After 30 minutes, add the salt. Work in the salt for another three to four minutes. Cover and let the dough rest for 45 minutes. NOTE: At this point, your dough should have a strong windowpane (the dough should be fully extensible). If for some reason it does not, let the dough rest and check it again before the first set of folds. If, at this point, it does not have a windowpane, go ahead and knead for a few minutes more in place of the first fold.
4. Perform three sets of folds, either stretch-and-folds or coil folds. Perform three to four folds in each set, at least one fold in each cardinal direction. You will know you have created enough tension when the dough becomes resistant to being stretched. Cover the dough and rest 45 minutes between each set. NOTE: After the third set of folds, evaluate the dough. If the dough is tense and resistant to stretching early in the folding process, no more folds are needed. If the dough is still stretching a lot and it is taking more than four folds to build tension during a set of folds, continue adding sets of folds, one at a time, until the dough becomes more resistant to being stretched.

After folds are finished, continue with the remainder of the recipe as you normally would.

Is Autolyse The “Open-Crumb” Sourdough Secret?

Autolyse alone is not the “open-crumb” sourdough secret. In other words, simply adding autolyse to the baking timeline is not going to magically open up your crumb. However, autolyse can develop ideal gluten and dough structure when done correctly in compilation with many other variables.

There are two ways to create “open-crumb” in sourdough baking: through a highly extensible dough and through optimal fermentation, when the yeast are able to maximally aerate each balloon (areola) inside your dough. I will not discuss open-crumb in detail here because it is such a complex subject. However, you should know how autolyse affects both of these things.

A highly extensible dough is an underdeveloped dough. Its gluten structure is not elastic enough, therefore when the yeast are rapidly multiplying and releasing CO2 during baking, the flimsy gluten structure expands and creates giant air pockets. Autolyse can help create this kind of extensibility, although the effects of autolyse can be countered by folding the dough too much during fermentation.

A maximally aerated dough, one that has achieved optimal fermentation, gains its open crumb from having the appropriate balance of gluten strength and fermentation. It also requires the right balance of microorganisms in the dough, which comes from the care and maintenance of your starter. Autolyse helps create extensibility that helps the dough ferment and expand. It also provides (or helps provide) the gluten network that holds in air from the very start of fermentation, which can help the dough trap the most air.

What Is Gluten And Why Do I Need It?

Pull up on a piece of your bread dough. Does it tear immediately, or does it stretch a bit? For the dough to stretch without tearing – this is a sign that gluten is present.

Baker’s check the state of their gluten by evaluating the dough’s “windowpane.” Can the dough stretch to a point where it can be seen through? How clear is the window? Is it completely see-through, or are there still some dark patches? How easy or difficult is it to stretch the dough to this point? How far can the dough be stretched before it begins to tear?

Gluten is a group of proteins, the most notable being gliadin and glutenin, found in wheat and other grains like barley and rye. They bond naturally over time, or unnaturally when bakers knead their bread dough. When these proteins come together, they form a network that traps air from fermentation.

You can think of gluten like the rubber on a balloon. When you mix flour and water to make dough, the gluten proteins stick together and create a network. This is similar to stretching a balloon before blowing it up. The stretching makes the balloon flexible and ready to hold air. As you knead the dough, the gluten network becomes stronger and stretchier, just like a balloon that can hold more air without popping.

In bread dough, microorganisms (yeast and bacteria) create gas bubbles. The gluten traps these bubbles, causing the dough to rise and increase in volume. When you blow air into a balloon, it expands because the rubber holds the air inside. In the oven, the gluten continues to hold in the gas bubbles, making the bread fluffy and helping it keep its shape. Just like how a balloon keeps its shape when you tie it off, gluten helps the bread maintain its form as it bakes.

Conclusion

In summary, gluten is a group of proteins that come together to create a network that helps the dough stretch, trap gas bubbles, and rise to create delicious, fluffy bread. Without gluten, your bread would be flat, cracked, and have a dense texture.

Extensibility Versus Elasticity

There are two important parts to how gluten is developed in bread dough: extensibility and elasticity. 

Extensibility

When you hear the word “extensibility,” picture in your mind your fingers picking up a small piece of dough and lifting it up, up, up. As you lift the dough, it doesn’t tear. It just keeps stretching without breaking. This dough is extensible.

You can also check for extensibility by inspecting the dough for a “windowpane” effect. When you pull a piece of dough apart, if it stretches and becomes thin enough to see through, that means the dough has good extensibility. The more see-through the windowpane is, the better the dough can stretch.

Extensibility is necessary and good, but it is also represents weakness. Too much extensibility can lead to a loaf that is flat, without good form.

There are many ways to create extensibility in your bread dough, some of them good, some of them not so good, and everything being best in balance and moderation. Let’s talk about each:

Autolyse

Autolyse is when flour and water are mixed together and allowed to rest for a period of time before adding other ingredients, such as sourdough starter and salt. During autolyse, gluten naturally comes together and the dough becomes more extensible. This is because an enzyme called “protease” breaks down the proteins in the flour into smaller pieces called peptides and amino acids. This breaking down of the flour is what creates extensibility. Eventually, though, proteases will break down the flour completely and over-autolyse will occur.

Kneading

You can knead the dough for longer periods of time or at higher speeds to create extensibility. Whacking the dough around in the mixer breaks gluten bonds and creates an extensible dough. However, it is possible to over-knead. When this happens, too much of the gluten is broken and the dough becomes overly-extensible, sticky, and hard to manage.

Hydration

The reason some baker’s love high hydration doughs or attribute them to open crumb is because the extra water creates extensibility. A wetter dough is able to stretch more. However, doughs with too much water can be more difficult to work with and, in some cases, may take more time and effort to appropriately form gluten.

Over-Proofing

Fermenting your dough for too long will create a highly extensible dough that falls flat again. This is one of the methods that you do not want to strive for. However, an “over-proofed” bread is usually a very airy and soft. In my opinion, it is better to over-proof your bread dough than to under-proof it.

Over-proofing is a combination of the balance of microorganisms coming from your sourdough starter that are transferred over to your bread dough paired with the balance of extensibility/elasticity in the dough paired with how long the dough has been fermented for and at what temperature it has been fermented. As you can see, it is a very complex subject.

One common way for bread dough to over-proof is for yeast to “pop” the bubble or balloon that is the gluten network because the dough could not hold in all the air that was produced. Alternatively, another very common, and generally unheard of, way for bread dough to over-proof is when lactic acid bacteria (LAB) eat away at the proteins in flour, eventually breaking it down completely, making it extensible. This can be a very common problem, especially among home sourdough bakers, because there are many who do not know or understand how to tell when there are too much LAB being transferred over from the starter to the bread dough or how to maintain the starter to reduce the number of LAB (which reproduce faster than yeast). Just like natural enzymes break down proteins in flour, which create a more extensible dough during autolyse, LAB also break down proteins in flour that create extensibility, and can eventually cause bread dough to “over-proof,” sometimes before yeast can fully aerate the dough.

Add A Bit Of Spelt To The Mix

Spelt is known for its highly extensible gluten network. Adding a little bit of spelt to your flour blend can help encourage extensibility.

Elasticity

Elasticity is the opposite of extensibility. Let’s go back to that picture in your mind of your fingers picking up a small piece of dough and lifting it up, up, up. An extensible dough will lift higher and higher easily, without tearing. Now imagine the dough begins to fight you. It pulls back in the other direction. It does not want you to stretch it out, it wants to bounce back to the comfy dough ball it was before you tried to stretch it. This is elasticity. It’s the strength of your dough.

You can see how elastic your dough is by inspecting the “windowpane.” How hard is it to stretch the dough to a see-through consistency? How thick is the dough after it has been stretched as far as it will go? A thicker windowpane that is more resistant to stretching is more elastic than a very thin windowpane that stretches easily.

Elasticity is necessary and good, representing strength. However, like everything, it is only good in moderation. While elasticity makes the dough stronger, it is possible for it to become too strong. It takes more air to blow up a balloon with thick rubber. You need enough strength that the dough will stand firm without collapsing, but not so much that the microorganisms in your dough cannot blow it up. More elasticity in bread dough means a longer fermentation.

Certain ingredients and techniques contribute to a more elastic gluten network. Let’s talk about them below:

Kneading

When you knead bread dough, you create elasticity. Moving and stretching the dough makes it stronger. For more strength, handle the dough with care. Knead it at low speeds and not for too long. As I mentioned above, kneading the dough at high speeds or for longer periods of time creates the opposite – an extensible dough. In order to knead and obtain an elastic dough, you’ll want to be more gentle with your dough.

A Note On Folds

Folds do not create elasticity in your gluten structure. Folds help develop the dough overall, but not by creating a stronger gluten network. Folds create another component called, “tension.” Tension gives the dough strength for a moment, but once the dough is given a chance to relax, that strength goes away.

Elasticity does not go away. The only way it can be destroyed is by an over-proofed bread dough.

Lamination

Lamination is when the dough is turned out onto a clean working surface and stretched to its max. The dough is then carefully folded and returned to a proofing container to finish fermenting.

By stretching the dough (not tearing it!), the gluten is being worked to its full potential. This intense stretching increases elasticity in bread dough.

Tightening Agents

Certain ingredients added to bread dough create a tighter, stronger, more elastic network. You’ll often find that when these ingredients are added to bread dough, the dough behaves differently and the resulting crumb is finer and denser. That’s because tightening agents tend to give the dough a thicker skin that is more like the rubber on a car tire than a balloon. Depending on the ingredient and how much it tightens the dough, the dough becomes very hard for your microorganisms to blow up. Examples of tightening agents include: salt, milk, cocoa powder, eggs, beetroot powder, etc. The amount that the dough is tightened by each ingredient varies depending on the ingredient and how much is added to the dough.

When certain tightening agents are included in a recipe, the process must change. For one, some tightening agents make it harder for gluten to form in the first place. Then, once gluten does form, it is… well… tight. Because the dough is more elastic, it will not respond to folding in the same way. A dough that is too elastic will struggle to relax after receiving tension through folds. When working with these ingredients, the baker will need to find ways to make the dough more extensible in order to keep it workable and to help the dough ferment properly.

Hydration

Just like higher hydration doughs are more extensible, lower hydration doughs are more elastic. However, just as too much water can make it harder for gluten to form, so can too little water. Everything is good in moderation!

Flour Choice

Some flours, such as whole wheat, naturally absorb more water, creating a more elastic dough.

Conclusion

It’s important not to view one or the other (extensibility or elasticity) as “good” or “bad.” Everything is good in moderation, and the strength of our gluten network is no different. We must find the perfect balance of each for the bread we are making. The dough must be weak enough that it can be easily blown up by our microorganisms and expand in the oven, yet not so weak that it over-proofs too quickly. Conversely, the dough must be strong enough that is can hold its shape and stand firm, yet not so strong that it cannot ferment at all.

What Is Protein Content And Why Is It Important?

When bakers use the word “protein content,” they are talking about how much protein is in their flour. Since gluten is formed via the bonding of various proteins (most notably gliadin and glutenin), the higher the protein content of the flour, the more potential it has for gluten development.

Now, when we step out of the realm of white flour, protein content can get complicated. The bran and germ of whole grains contain protein, but their proteins are different and do not contribute to the development of gluten.

Some brands are very open about the protein content of their flour, even displaying it on the packaging (such as King Arthur). Other brands may not display the protein content, instead they distinguish between the flour they recommend for certain types of bread (such as Bob’s Red Mill).

Generally speaking, white flour can be divided into three categories:

1. Bread flour: Bread flour contains the highest amount of protein (12-14%), meaning it has the potential to develop the strongest gluten network.
2. All-purpose flour: All-purpose flour contains a moderate amount of protein (10-12%), making it versatile, suitable for a wide range of baked goods with balanced gluten development.
3. Cake flour: Cake flour contains the lowest amount of protein (7-9%), meaning gluten development is minimal. This results in a tender and crumbly texture, perfect for cakes and pastries.

Both bread flour and all-purpose flour can be used for bread. The difference is how easily gluten will develop and how strong it can become. An all-purpose flour or low-quality bread flour will require more effort to develop the same strength of gluten as a high-quality bread flour will develop naturally. If you do not have access to a good flour for bread, try adding vital wheat gluten to your dough. Though it looks like flour, it is straight gluten and will help encourage a strong gluten network in your dough.

How Is Gluten Different In Different Types of Flour?

Every type of flour has a different relationship with gluten. The proteins in each are different, affecting the ease of gluten formation, as well as the extensibility/elasticity of the gluten network. This is why it is so important to work with a single flour type until mastery, rather than playing around with various flours. Because every type of flour has a different relation to gluten, the way the dough behaves and the way it needs to be handled is different. Let’s talk about a few common alternatives to modern white flour, their protein content, and their relationship to gluten below:

Whole Wheat Flour

Whole wheat flour has a similar protein content to white wheat flour but includes the bran and germ, which can interfere with the formation of a strong gluten network. Bran can cut through gluten strands, resulting in a denser and coarser texture. Whole wheat flour also absorbs more water which can affect gluten formation as well.

Rye Flour

Rye flour contains proteins that can form gluten, but these proteins are less efficient at creating the strong, elastic network seen in wheat flour. This is because rye has high levels of pentosans (complex carbohydrates) that interfere with gluten formation. The gluten network in rye dough is weak, resulting in denser and moister baked goods. Because of this, rye dough is stickier and less cohesive, absorbing a lot of water.

Spelt Flour

Spelt flour has a relatively high protein content, similar to or slightly higher than that of wheat flour, but its gluten structure is different. The gluten in spelt is more soluble and extensible than the gluten found in modern wheat, which means the dough is stretchy but less stable. In other words, since it lacks elasticity, the balloon can “pop” easier. Bread made with spelt flour holds in air and can expand well during fermentation; however, it may not hold its shape as well as wheat dough.

Kamut Flour

Kamut, also known as Khorasan wheat, has a high protein content, similar to, or even higher than, modern wheat. The proteins in Kamut can form gluten, but, similar to spelt flour, the nature of the gluten is different. The gluten formed from Kamut tends to be more fragile and extensible than modern wheat. While Kamut can produce a strong gluten network, it can be more difficult to achieve the same elasticity found in bread flour made from modern wheat, potentially leading to a more tender bread.

Einkorn Flour

Einkorn is one of the oldest forms of cultivated wheat and has a protein content similar to or slightly lower than modern wheat. However, the gluten proteins in einkorn are quite different. The gluten in einkorn is weaker and less elastic than that found in modern wheat. Einkorn dough tends to be stickier and less cohesive, making it more challenging to work with. The resulting gluten network is delicate, leading to a more crumbly and tender texture in baked goods.

How Does Dough Hydration Affect Gluten Development?

Hydration simply means water. How much water did you add to the dough? Hydration is typically expressed as a percentage, which tells bakers how wet or dry their dough is. Water is essential for hydrating the gluten proteins, allowing them to unfold and bond together. Without sufficient water, gluten struggles to form. Conversely, too much water can also make it difficult for gluten to form.

Hydration is relative. Different flours can absorb different amounts of water. It is important to hydrate your dough according to the needs of the flour you are using.

Even still, you can hydrate your flour differently depending on the recipe and the outcome you are trying to achieve.

Low hydration doughs are stiff doughs. They are hydrated, albeit minimally. The absence of sufficient water in these doughs gives limited mobility to the gluten proteins, hindering the formation of a strong gluten network. Though the lack of water limits gluten’s ability to develop a strong network, the additional flour works to help the dough hold its shape. The resulting bread is usually denser and more tender than breads made with adequate water.

Moderate hydration doughs are somewhere in the middle of stiff and loose. They have enough water for gluten proteins to interact and form a cohesive and elastic network, allowing gluten to form naturally on its own.

High hydration doughs have a lot of water, making them very loose and harder to work with. The excess water allows gluten proteins to move more freely, almost too freely, making it more difficult for gluten to bond. Though the excess water can make it difficult for the dough to come together, it also makes the dough more extensible, which can help support an open crumb.

What Other Ingredients Affect The Formation Of Gluten?

In the same way that every flour has a different relationship to gluten, and the amount of water affects gluten’s ability to come together, every ingredient added to bread dough can affect gluten as well. Examples include: tightening agents, fats, and enzymes.

Tightening agents help to make the gluten network stronger. In other words, they create elasticity. Elasticity helps the dough trap gases that form during the fermentation process. However, it is important to add just the right amount of whatever tightening agent you are working with. Too much of any tightening agent can create an overly-elastic dough that struggles to expand, slowing fermentation. Examples of tightening agents include: salt, milk, cocoa powder, eggs, beetroot powder, etc.

Fats, such as butter, oil, or shortening, can coat gluten proteins, preventing them from hydrating properly and bonding to form a strong network. It is important to develop doughs with high percentages of fat to a full windowpane during mixing, as gluten will not come together properly on its own.

Enzymes, such as proteases from malted barley flour, break down gluten proteins into smaller fragments, which can make for a more extensible gluten network. Controlled enzyme activity can be especially helpful when using freshly milled whole grain flours, which, on their own, produce a tighter dough.

The Connection Between Gluten And Fermentation

At this point, you (hopefully) understand that gluten is a network formed by proteins that come from wheat. This network helps trap air from fermentation, allowing the dough to expand and hold its shape. The gluten network can be described as extensible (stretchy, weak) or elastic (firm, strong). The balance of extensibility/elasticity in your dough’s gluten network can change, depending on a variety of factors, including: flour type, hydration, ingredients, and technique.

The balance of extensibility/elasticity in your dough also affects fermentation. Let’s go back to the balloon analogy:

• A very thin rubber is flimsy and cannot hold much air. The balloon will pop sooner.
• A very thick rubber is incredibly strong. It is hard to get the balloon to expand at all. It requires more air to blow up.

Therefore, the thicker the rubber on the balloon, the more air it requires to blow it up.

This is the same concept as gluten and bread dough. The more extensible the gluten network, the less air it requires to blow up. The network is less stable; it will “pop” easier. Conversely, the more elastic the gluten network, the more air it requires to blow up. The dough is strong and struggles to expand. Therefore, the more elastic the gluten network, the longer the fermentation. The more extensible the gluten network, the shorter the fermentation. We must have the right balance of each (extensibility and elasticity) in our bread dough in order to make the best bread.

Finding The Right Balance

The right balance is dependent on the baker’s personal preference in combination with the results they are trying to achieve. There is no “right” or “wrong,” there just “is.” However, bread dough with a good balance of extensibility/elasticity is usually domed on the edges and has medium-size bubbles visible on the surface of the dough.

Signs Your Dough Might Be Too Extensible

• The dough ferments too quickly
• You notice bubbles popping on the surface of the dough before you suspect fermentation should be complete
• The dough will not hold its shape because it is so loose
• The banneton is wet after the dough is turned out of it
• The bread is flat after being bake, despite being properly fermented
• The crumb is too open, displaying abnormally large holes, despite being properly fermented and all other variables being correct

Try mixing the dough for longer (five minutes is a good number), laminating the dough in place of the first or second set of folds, or adding an extra set of folds to increase tension during fermentation. If it is your flour that is the problem, try adding vital wheat gluten.

Signs Your Dough Might Be Too Elastic

• The dough is struggling to ferment; it is barely rising
• The dough is barely showing any bubbles on the surface, and if it is, they are small
• The dough is hard to shape because it is so firm
• The dough is not sticky at all
• The bread does not spring up in the oven; instead, the oven spring is minimal and you can see cracks inside the opening where the loaf was scored
• The crumb is closed, despite a long fermentation and all other variables being correct

Try reducing the number of folds to create a more relaxed dough, eliminate lamination, or reduce the time you spend mixing/kneading the dough in order to increase extensibility.

Conclusion

Gluten is a fascinating and necessary phenomenon in sourdough bread-making. Without gluten, our dough cannot hold in air or keep its shape. The extensibility/elasticity of gluten must be balanced in order to achieve the characteristics you are looking for in your bread. Every little thing makes a difference.

What Is Hydration?

Hydration refers to the ratio of water to flour in a bread recipe, which is expressed as a percentage. Specific percentages are generally classified as “low,” “moderate,” or “high” hydration: each classification significantly influencing the texture, structure, and final outcome of the baked product.

Hydration is calculated by dividing the weight of the water in the recipe by the weight of the flour, then multiplying by 100 to express it as a percentage.

The formula is: Hydration % = (Weight of Water/Weight of Flour) × 100

Why Should I Care About Hydration?

Hydration has an effect on every aspect of the bread-making process – from the way the dough must be handled to the texture it produces in your bread. Though it’s not essential to understand hydration to make great bread, knowledge of its effects can improve the quality and consistency of your loaves. Hydration affects –

1. Texture, Crust, and Crumb: Higher hydration breads generally result in a more open and irregular crumb with a lighter, thinner crust and a chewier, artisanal texture. On the other hand, lower hydration breads tend to result in a tighter crumb structure, with a (potentially) thicker crust (depending on the style/how the bread is baked) and a softer texture.
2. Handling and Workability: High hydration doughs can be more difficult to work with because the dough is looser and stickier. Meanwhile, lower hydration doughs tend to be easier to work with because they are firmer and softer (but not sticky), making them more manageable.
3. Fermentation and Flavor Development: High hydration doughs are preferable for the bacteria in your starter, which produce acids that can lead to more complex, and often desirable, flavors in bread. Conversely, lower hydration doughs favor yeast growth over bacterial growth, which generally contributes to a milder flavor profile in bread.
4. Flour Types and Varieties: Different types of flour absorb water differently. Some are capable of absorbing a lot of water, while others are not. This means that different hydrations paired with different flours result in different consistencies in bread dough. Hydration awareness allows for flexibility in adapting recipes to different flours.
5. Consistency and Reproducibility: Knowing what hydration works with each recipe you bake and flour you use creates predictability and repeatable, reliable baking outcomes.

A General Classification Of Hydration

Low Hydration (Below 65%)

Low hydration doughs, in regards to white wheat flour, are firm and soft to the touch. Because they hold together so well, they are great for beginners or for making complex shapes (such as pretzels). These doughs generally produce a softer, denser crumb.

Moderate Hydration (65-80%)

This range is common for a variety of bread types. It allows for a good balance between workability and the development of gluten structure. These doughs are stickier, but still manageable, and produce a lighter, airier crumb than their low hydration counterparts.

High Hydration (Above 80%)

Doughs with higher hydration levels, in regards to white wheat flour, are the most difficult to work with because they are looser and stickier than other hydrations. In addition, gluten does not come together as easily, which shapes/differentiates the bread-making process from other hydrations. These doughs are characteristic of artisanal and rustic breads, producing a more open crumb structure and a chewier end result when handled correctly.

Low Hydration Doughs (Below 65%)

Low hydration doughs are characterized by their low water to flour ratio, which is generally less than 65% (using the formula provided above). These doughs tend to be firmer, less sticky, and easier to handle compared to their higher hydration counterparts. They are perfect for making fun and versatile shapes, such as braids, are simple and quick to throw together/develop, and are more flexible when it comes to proofing. In my opinion, low hydration doughs are great for beginners due to their flexibility and ease of handling.

Characteristics Of Low Hydration Doughs

Firmness

Low hydration doughs are firmer and less extensible (stretchy). The gluten network is less hydrated, resulting in a dough that is easier to shape and mold.

Easier Handling

These doughs are generally soft, but not sticky, making them more manageable during shaping and forming. Bakers have more control over the dough, which can be advantageous for creating specific shapes, such as braids and twists.

Uniform Crumb

Low hydration doughs often produce a more uniform crumb structure with smaller and more evenly distributed air pockets. This can result in a softer, denser texture in the final baked product.

Examples Of Low Hydration Doughs

Gluten In Low Hydration Doughs

Stiff, low hydration doughs are also typically considered “high gluten” doughs. While these doughs easily come together and hold their shape, the lack of water also makes it harder for gluten to form. Without enough gluten-binding proteins, the dough may struggle to form a gluten window, which allows opportunity for air to escape. This decreases the dough’s ability to rise to its fullest potential, resulting in a denser crumb and texture. Gluten must be developed through kneading and time; the more help it can get the better. Using a flour with a high protein content can be helpful.

Fermenting Low Hydration Doughs

Breads with lower hydration typically have a more flexible fermenting schedule, due to the increased amount of flour (which is food for the starter). In order for bread dough to “overproof”, one of two things will happen: a) the bacteria in your starter have broken down the gluten network, which results in the dough losing air and structure, or b) the yeast have “popped” the balloon (gluten network) with which they were blowing up because it either was not developed enough or fermented for too long. This means that, when developed correctly, low hydration doughs can triple or quadruple in size before they overproof, though it can still happen. It is not necessary to ferment a low hydration dough to its maximum point for excellent results in the recipe, in fact, sometimes it is undesired (depending on the outcome you’re going for). The extra flour brings a softer, more tender texture to the bread once baked. However, it is good to keep in mind that going a little bit over what the recipe calls for on fermentation will not be the end-all for your bread.

Shaping Low Hydration Doughs

Low hydration doughs are the easiest to shape for the same reason they have a more flexible fermenting schedule: increased flour. This makes them firm and soft. They typically do not require an extra sprinkling of flour on the counter to keep them from sticking, as they are generally minimally sticky or not sticky at all. They can be easily divided and maneuvered to the baker’s intent.

Moderate Hydration Doughs (65-80%)

Moderate hydration doughs offer a balanced compromise between the ease of handling seen in low hydration doughs and the extensibility and open crumb structure of high hydration doughs, generally falling in the range of 65-80% hydration (using the formula provided above). These doughs are looser, yet still manageable, yielding a lighter, airier crumb than their low hydration counterparts.

Characteristics Of Moderate Hydration Doughs

Perfectly Balanced

Moderate hydration doughs strike a balance between firmness and extensibility (the dough’s ability to stretch). The gluten network is adequately hydrated (not under or over), resulting in a dough that is both workable and capable of producing a variety of bread styles and textures.

Versatility

These doughs are incredibly versatile and can be used for a wide range of bread types, from sandwiches, to sweet breads, to, artisanal/crusty breads with some open crumb structure.

Reasonable Handling

While slightly stickier than low hydration doughs, moderate hydration doughs are still reasonable to handle, and are manageable during shaping and forming.

Examples Of Moderate Hydration Doughs

Gluten In Moderate Hydration Doughs

Because moderate hydration doughs are adequately hydrated (they are neither under- or over-hydrated), gluten develops well on its own (over time) or through kneading (via stand mixer or by hand). This means that flours with varying protein levels can be used with great results (noting that technique will need to be adjusted depending on the characteristics of the flour). Strong flours (flours with a high protein content) can handle more water and less gluten development (folds or kneading), while weaker flours need less water and more gluten development.

Fermenting Moderate Hydration Doughs

Breads with moderate hydration are less flexible in their fermenting schedule than breads with low hydration, due to having less flour and more moisture than their low hydration counterparts. The yeast and bacteria in your starter are moisture-loving, and reproduce more quickly in wet environments, which can cause the dough to overproof faster. These doughs can still reach double in size, and sometimes more if the dough is developed well, the starter is balanced, and fermentation is pushed.

Shaping Moderate Hydration Doughs

Moderate hydration doughs are still manageable to shape, even though they are sticker than low hydration doughs. A little bit of flour, water, or oil can be used to help limit stickiness and make handling easier during different parts of the process. Because the dough is loose, the dough may lose its shape or form slightly if left to rest too long after shaping without some sort of aid, such as a banneton or loaf pan, to hold it accountable.

High Hydration Doughs (Above 80%)

High hydration doughs are characterized by their high water to flour ratio, which is generally above 80% (using the formula provided above). These doughs tend to be sticky and loose – the most difficult to handle of all the hydrations. They are known, and frequently sought after by bread enthusiasts, for creating bread with an open crumb. They produce the airiest dough with the thinnest crust and chewiest texture. Working with high hydration doughs requires specific techniques and considerations to handle the wet and slack nature of the dough while achieving the desired results.

Characteristics Of High Hydration Doughs

Difficult Handling

High hydration doughs are wetter, stickier, and looser than other dough hydrations, making them the most challenging to handle. Baker’s have less control over the dough and how it is formed, meaning most high hydration doughs are baked into loose shapes.

Open Crumb Structure

The increased water content makes the dough more extensible, which contributes to the development of larger and more irregular air pockets in the bread, resulting in a more open crumb when handled correctly. This is a current bread trend, and a characteristic that many bread enthusiasts seek at some point or another.

Chewy Texture

The higher hydration level means that flour has access to (and absorbs) more water, contributing to a chewier texture in the final baked product.

Examples Of High Hydration Doughs

Gluten In High Hydration Doughs

Gluten can be difficult to develop in high hydration doughs due to the excess water, which lends a more free-flowing network. If the flour is too weak (not enough gluten-binding proteins), it may not be able to absorb all of the water, or at least all of the water at one time, leading to a shaggy dough that tears and falls apart (one that doesn’t have a sufficient gluten structure). High hydration doughs can take a long time to develop, and often require special techniques like “double hydration” (when the water is added in two or three parts) or use of time + folds to help the dough come together. These doughs require a strong flour in order to form any kind of cohesive mass.

Fermenting High Hydration Doughs

High hydration breads have the most moisture of all, making their fermenting schedule much shorter – the least flexible of all the hydrations. This higher water to flour ratio is ideal for the yeast and bacteria in your starter, which are moisture-loving and reproduce most quickly in wet environments. Pair this with less flour, which means less food, as well as a more relaxed gluten structure (which is easier to break through), and these doughs are the most difficult to ferment. High hydration doughs can usually double in size at their maximum, but do not have to be pushed to this point.

Shaping High Hydration Doughs

High hydration doughs can be incredibly difficult to shape, as they are the stickiest and loosest of all the doughs. A heavy dusting of flour is typically used when shaping the dough, and they are usually shaped or cut with a bench scraper into simple squares (think ciabatta) or other loose shapes.

Hydration And Flour Choice

Different flours absorb water differently; therefore, the consistency of your dough will vary, depending on the type of flour used. Having knowledge of the flour being used and the hydration needed for best results can significantly impact the final bake.

For example, whole wheat and rye flours absorb a lot of water, meaning that even at 90% hydration they may feel similar to a moderate hydration dough. The dough likely wouldn’t be incredibly sticky or extensible, and the end result may not have an open crumb or be chewy in texture, despite the dough being classified as “high hydration,” due to its high water content.

Another example would be different levels of protein in white flours, whether using hard red spring wheat or soft white wheat. A white flour with a protein content of 14% is going to absorb a lot more water than a white flour with a protein content of 10%. This is the difference between bread flour, all-purpose flour, and cake flour; the protein content of the flour affects both how much water the flour can absorb, as well as how readily gluten will bring the dough together.

While different flours may affect the texture, feel, workability of the dough, and outcome of the bread, they do not affect hydration calculation. Any type of flour (milled grain product) can, and should, be included in hydration calculation. A bread made with 500 g of flour and 350 g of water still has a hydration of 70%, whether the flour used was all-purpose, bread, whole wheat, rye, spelt, or even gluten-free.

What Ingredients Besides Flour And Water Impact Hydration?

In regards to water: any liquid, such as milk, tea, coffee, juice, or alcohol (such as wine or beer) can be substituted as, or added to, the total amount of water when calculating hydration. While it is true that the quantities of solids and subcomponents (such as milk solids, tea or coffee granules, juice pulp, or alcohol) varies in each example, each contains enough water to count toward hydration.

Eggs contain around 75% water and can be counted toward hydration, if desired. The total amount of eggs by weight should be multiplied by .75 to determine the water content, and thereby impact on hydration.

Other ingredients that include varied water percentages include: butter (approximately 18% water content) and fresh fruit. While these will affect the overall hydration of the recipe, they are not necessary to included in hydration calculation.

In regards to dry ingredients: ingredients such as cocoa powder, dried fruit powders, and dry milk powder do not count toward hydration, even though they do absorb water and have varying impacts on the dough. Only milled grain products count toward hydration calculation.

How Do I Calculate The Hydration Of A Recipe?

There are two ways to calculate hydration: the simple way and the technical way. The simple way will suffice for approximating hydration, while the technical way will give the baker a more accurate representation of the hydration of a recipe.

To calculate hydration, use the formula: Hydration % = (Weight of Water/Weight of Flour) × 100

Let’s calculate the hydration of a simple, four ingredient bread recipe:

Simple Method

To calculate hydration the simple way, take the amount of water (350 g) and divide it by the amount of flour (500 g).

350 / 500 = .70

Now, multiply this by 100 to express hydration as a percentage.

.70 X 100 = 70

So, using the simple method of calculating hydration, this recipe has a hydration of approximately 70%.

Technical Method

When calculating hydration the technical way, it is essential to include all flour/water added to the recipe, including flour/water added from different ingredients. In the case of this four ingredient bread recipe, the starter must be included, since it consists of flour and water.

My sourdough starter is 100% hydration, meaning it is made up of equal parts flour and water. This means, in my case, 100 g of sourdough starter would be made up of 50 g flour + 50 g water.

This amount of flour and water needs to be added to the amounts in the recipe in order to calculate the actual hydration.

500 g bread flour + 50 g flour from the sourdough starter = 550 total grams of flour.

350 g water + 50 g water from the sourdough starter = 400 total grams of water.

Now, divide the total amount of water by the total amount of flour.

400 / 550 = .73

Last, multiply this number by 100 to express hydration as a percentage.

.73 X 100 = 73

So, using the technical method of calculating hydration, this recipe has an actual hydration of 73%.

How Do I Change The Hydration Of A Recipe?

Changing the hydration of a recipe is easy, requiring only simple math. To change the hydration, take the total amount of flour in the recipe and multiply it by the percent hydration you would like to change the recipe to. Let’s look at our previous example:

Simple Method

In the previous section, it was determined that the approximate hydration of this recipe was 70%. Let’s say we want it to be approximately 80%. Take the amount of flour in the recipe and multiply it by the percent hydration you would like to change the recipe to:

500 X .80 = 400

So, for this example, we would use 400 g of water (instead of 350 g) to make our recipe.

Technical Method

In the previous section, it was determined that the actual hydration of this recipe was 73%. Let’s say we want it to be 80%. Using this method, it is important to include water and flour found in the sourdough starter.

Total flour = 550 g (500 g bread flour + 50 g flour from the sourdough starter)

550 X .80 = 440

So, we need to have a total of 440 g of water in the recipe. Let’s not forget to subtract the amount of water from the sourdough starter:

440 – 50 = 390

So, for this example, we would add 390 g (instead of 350 g) of water to the dough for our recipe.

Conclusion

To sum, hydration simply means water. When baker’s reference hydration, they are expressing how much water they added to a dough in the form of a percentage. The consistency and texture of a dough will change with hydration, and will also vary depending on ingredients (including flours, liquids, and other flavoring ingredients) added to the dough.

What, Why, And How?

When baker’s reference “dough temperature,” they are referring to the temperature of their bread dough during bulk fermentation, beginning directly after the dough is mixed and ending just before the dough is shaped. Tracking and controlling the temperature of your dough can help you control the rate of fermentation, which can significantly impact the final characteristics of your bread.

To understand how significantly dough temperature can affect fermentation and bread, it is important to understand the depth of fermentation. The temperature of your dough affects more than just the time it takes for your dough to ferment. It also affects the balance of microorganisms in your starter and bread dough, which affects the strength and fermenting capabilities of your dough.

To dive a little deeper (while also avoiding too much complexity) we have to understand that the leavening agent in our bread is a blend of yeast and different kinds of bacteria that are transferred to our dough through our starter. This being said, nothing will save our bread dough if our starter is out of whack. However, assuming it’s not, we have a perfect balance of CO2, lactic acid, and acetic acid that aerate and flavor our dough.

When dough temperatures are too warm, we encourage the reproduction of a kind of bacteria called homofermentative lactic acid bacteria (homofermentative LAB) over yeast. Homofermentative LAB reproduce faster than yeast already, so when temperatures are in their favor, they really take over. Homofermentative LAB break down proteins in your flour and create extensibility (your dough’s ability to stretch), which is only good until it isn’t, and the gluten structure is completely broken down before the loaf is aerated to its maximum potential.

When temperatures are too cold, yeast move very, very slowly. While the yeast are slowly inching along, other strains of bacteria are continuing to reproduce, leading to complex, and eventually very sour, flavors in your bread. It may even seem that your bread is hardly rising at all. Likely, your bread will not rise to its fullest potential before becoming extremely sour, due to the sluggish yeast – leaving you with a dense bread whose flavor just isn’t quite right.

So, what is an ideal dough temperature? 73-75 F (23-24 C) seems to be a perfect middle. You can get maximum aeration from the yeast, as well as great structure in your dough and a delicious complexion of flavors. I do not recommend fermenting colder than 70 F (21 C), though the cooler dough makes overnight sourdough possible. Last, you can go as high at 78 F (26 C), but in my experience, the resulting bread does not have near as good of a texture – it is nowhere near as light and airy as the bread fermented in cooler temperatures.

To track your dough’s temperature, you need an instant-read thermometer. Once you have finished mixing your dough, stick it right into the middle of your dough and check the temperature. This will give you an idea of how your dough will perform during bulk fermentation: the speed at which it will rise, how fast the gluten structure will break down, and what kind of flavors might be present in your bread after baking. To keep the dough temperature consistent, it is helpful to keep the dough in an environment similar to your desired dough temperature, which for me is around 73-75 F (23-24 C). You can also use the environment to help warm or cool off the dough, checking your dough’s temperature periodically during bulk fermentation to make sure you are on track.

A proofing box or any kind of device that can maintain a low temperature (I use my toaster oven because it goes as low as 60 F [15.5 C]) is a great tool for maintaining your desired dough temperature (also known as DDT). It can be an investment, but one that is well worth it if you are a serious baker looking for consistent results.

Of course, there are other, cheaper, less consistent alternatives. You could use: a seedling or dough mat to warm the dough from the bottom or sides, an oven (not running) with the light inside turned on, a microwave with the door shut (and maybe a cup of very hot, steamy water inside), or an insulated lunchbox with an ice pack (if you needed to cool the dough). In these instances, it is definitely helpful to check the dough’s temperature throughout bulk fermentation in order to make sure everything is on the right track, and that the dough is not too hot or too cold.

Altogether, when dough temperature is measured and maintained throughout the fermentation process, and the same dough temperature is applied to each and every loaf of bread, the baker can better predict fermentation with each loaf and produce more consistent results in their bakes.

Do I Have To Keep Track Of Dough Temperature?

Absolutely not. It is not essential to track dough temperature in order to make good bread. What is more important is understanding how the entire process works together to create a loaf with the characteristics that you like in your bread.

Tracking dough temperature is like a crutch, but also a good habit. It can help you nail fermentation even before you understand it. Then, when you do begin to understand fermentation, tracking your dough’s temperature can help you keep track of your dough (double-check yourself, in a sense). It’s your sidekick to producing consistent bakes. Being able to read fermentation is an advanced skill that comes at the cost of many loaves of bread (I am still figuring it out), but it is the secret to success. Understanding the impact of dough temperature can help give you success even before you truly understand why you are successful, kind of like following a recipe can help you make a good meal even before you are aware why each step was taken.

A Deeper Dive Into Dough Temperature (Plus How The Refrigerator Can Affect Our Dough)

At this point, you already know that the temperature of your dough can impact both the rate of fermentation and the balance of microorganisms in your dough. How can we use this to our advantage?

Because the ideal (or my ideal) temperature for balancing microorganisms in our dough is 73-75 F (23-24 C), we can strive to keep our dough in this temperature range for the majority of bulk fermentation. This way, we can be assured that our dough is maximally aerated and structured during fermentation. Then, once we get our dough to this point, we have options. We can shape it, let it relax and ferment some more, and then bake it right away. Or, we can develop complexity in our bread + extend the baking timeline.

I love to use the refrigerator at some point in my sourdough bread recipes whenever possible, or (at least) whenever it makes sense. To keep bulk fermentation around 73-75 F (23-24 C) means the dough must ferment for 9-10 hours before it is shaped. This can make it impossible to make a loaf of bread in one day, unless I want to be up really late at night. Or, I could ferment my dough overnight, but then I would not be able to observe/structure my dough (folds) throughout the bulk of fermentation. Using the refrigerator does make sense, and it can be a helpful tool.

Yeast will continue to multiply and aerate your dough in the refrigerator, they are just significantly slowed. If your dough is already mostly finished fermenting, this is not an issue. While the yeast slow, different kinds of bacteria continue to work, producing more complex flavors in your bread. While the bacteria will eventually break down your gluten structure and result in a sour loaf, twelve to sixteen hours in the fridge for a properly developed and fermented bread dough will not do any harm.

Working with a cold dough has other benefits too. I find that alongside an expanded baking timeline and greater depth of flavor, my loaves are easier to score. And, sticking a cold dough into a piping hot oven can really create an explosive effect as yeast are rapidly multiplying and releasing CO2 gases up until their death.

The refrigerator can be a bit tricky when we open the range of bulk fermentation to warmer or cooler dough temperatures. That’s because warmer dough takes longer to cool in the refrigerator. This means a warm dough will be aerated by yeast for a significantly longer period of time than a cooler dough, who already possesses sluggish yeast. This does not even touch on the imbalance of microorganisms already present in our dough and how the refrigerator can only make a bad situation worse.

Dough That Is Too Warm

For example, it is a common practice to aim for 78 F (26 C) as the ideal DDT (desired dough temperature). In these warm temperatures, those homofermentative LAB are happily working to break down your dough’s structure. While the yeast will move quicker, they will not move as fast as the homofermentative LAB. Therefore, it is likely the dough’s structure will break down (the dough will overproof) before the yeast can fully aerate the dough, producing a bread that far less fluffy than a maximally aerated dough.

Now, throw the refrigerator into the mix. Your dough will cool down much slower. Yeast will continue to aerate until the dough cools off while the homofermentative LAB are already overpopulated and will continue to break down your dough’s structure. If you ferment the dough outside of the fridge for too long, you dough will overproof in the refrigerator, leaving you with a sticky dough that won’t hold its shape.

That’s why many recipes call for a size increase of only 30%-40% when using a DDT of 78 F (26 C). Your dough will not hold up in the fridge if it was fermented too warm. To compensate, the dough is fermented for less time, resulting in less aeration and denser, but very much tolerable, bread.

If you are someone who is after open crumb – you can achieve open crumb from a dough fermented in this manner. It’s an interesting work-around the entire process, and it’s a rabbit hole for another day. In essence, you have to create an overly extensible dough (not very strong; rather, weak, underdeveloped, and very stretchy). By pairing this with a very hot baking temperature, the lax structure of your dough will create large, irregular air pockets as the dough rapidly expands in the hot oven.

Dough That Is Too Cold

As counter example, let’s say your home is fairly cold, and your dough temperature resides around 65 F (18 C). Yeast are already sluggish in these temperatures, and your dough will move very slowly. Heterofermentative LAB are favored: a different strain of bacteria that produces acid that is noticeably sour, while also tightening your dough’s structure. This is the opposite of the homofermentative LAB. While homofermentative LAB break down your dough, heterofermentative LAB tighten it. Trying to blow up a tight dough is like trying to blow up a balloon with really thick rubber. It takes double the amount of air just to blow it up. Did you catch that? 2X the air with yeast that are just inching along. To top it off, while your microorganisms are sluggishly blowing up this really thick balloon, your dough is getting really sour.

Now, throw the refrigerator into the mix. At this point, you may be thinking – why would you even do that? But, let’s say you do. Your dough will look like it has made absolutely no progress. Yeast growth is slowed even more; meanwhile the excess of heterofermentative LAB have continued to tighten the dough and make it even more sour (because at this point, we’ve moved past the “complex” flavor achievable from proper balance).

Can you achieve an open crumb like this? I have never done it. The dough is too tight, and the yeast cannot expand their balloons (each areola) in the oven. Even if I did let the dough rest until I suspected it had aerated enough and skipped the refrigerator, I think the microorganisms would be so off balance that they would prevent the crumb from opening up. In other words, the dough would be too acidic (acidic dough keeps the crumb closed).

Controlling Your Dough’s Temperature From The Start

Many bakers are obsessed with controlling their dough’s temperature from the very beginning. To achieve their DDT (desired dough temperature) from the get-go, they do some math that will get their FDT (final dough temperature) as close as possible to their DDT. Maybe you are one of those bakers who wants to know how to get your dough’s temperature right on track from the very start. Let me show you how:

The formula for calculating DDT looks something like this:

DDT = (Temperature of Ingredients + Friction Factor + Ambient Room Temperature) / (Number of Variables – 1)

Temperature Of Ingredients

This is the temperature of each ingredient that goes into your dough.

For most artisanal breads, there are only a few ingredients: flour, water, salt, and sourdough starter. Usually, these ingredients are at room temperature, unless you store your flour in the fridge or your starter in a warmer. Water is the only variable that baker’s can precisely control, and they use this to their advantage by heating up the water to a predetermined amount, which helps them more closely achieve their DDT.

For enriched doughs, friction factor is so high (due to necessary increased mixing times) that baker’s making these doughs generally place all of their ingredients in the fridge to cool down, which helps keep their dough from getting too warm during mixing.

Friction Factor

Friction factor is simply the amount the dough will heat up when mixed – whether by mechanical mixer or by hand. Friction can be applied as an estimated, predetermined variable (basically, just a guess). Here are some variables you can use depending on your mixing method:

Of course, every mixer and every mixing method will lend a different friction factor, so if you want an exact number – I’ve got you. However, a guess is generally good enough.

Ambient Room Temperature

This is the temperature of the room in which you are mixing your dough.

Controlling DDT Using Water Temperature

When calculating DDT to achieve a specific FDT, the baker is usually looking for the necessary temperature of an ingredient they can control. In most cases, this is water. The room temperature, temperature of flour, and temperature of starter can be somewhat controlled, but by the time dough is being mixed, these variables are what they are. Meanwhile, water can easily be heated up or cooled down to achieve a FDT as close to the DDT as possible.

To determine the temperature water should be to achieve DDT, the process goes as follows:

Plug known variables into the equation (below are simply example variables, and how each variable can be obtained) –

Using these example variables, the equation now looks something like this:

DDT = (Temperature of Ingredients + Friction Factor + Ambient Room Temperature) / (Number of Variables – 1)

75 = (70 +70 + 72 + X + 5 + 70) / (6-1)

Now, solve for “X” to determine the temperature of the unknown, controllable variable, which in this case is water.

75 = (287 + X) / 5

375 = 287 + X

88 = X

In this instance, heating the water to approximately 88 F will help achieve a FDT as close to the DDT as possible. 

Finding The Exact Variable For Friction Factor

As previously mentioned, the friction factors given above are predetermined estimates that may or may not lead to the DDT you are looking for. To know how to adjust friction factor to suit your own mixing practices, you’ll need to take the difference between your FDT and your DDT and add it to the friction factor used in the original equation.

Friction Factor Too Low

For example, say I used the formula above, but my FDT was 77 F, off-shooting the DDT by +2 F, meaning my mixing method generated more heat than originally accounted for.

77 (FDT) – 75 (DDT) = 2

To adjust friction factor, add “2” (the difference between FDT and DDT) to “5” (the original friction factor used in the equation).

5 + 2 = 7

In this instance, “7” would be more appropriate to use as the friction factor the next time the dough is mixed in the same manner.

Friction Factor Too High

But, let’s say the FDT was 73 F, -2 F less than the goal of 75 F, meaning the mixing method generated less heat than originally accounted for. Follow the same steps:

73 (FDT) – 75 (DDT) = (-2)

To adjust friction factor, add “-2” (the difference between FDT and DDT) to “5” (the original friction factor used in the equation).

5 + (-2) = 3

In this instance, “3” would be more appropriate to use as the friction factor the next time the dough is mixed in the same manner.

Conclusion

Understanding how dough temperature can create different outcomes in your dough will only help you achieve better bread with more consistent outcomes. The temperature of your dough not only affects the rate of fermentation, but also the balance of microorganisms, which can create varying characteristics in your dough and the bread baked from it.

First, let us begin by setting our expectations straight: establishing a starter from scratch takes time. Though it is well advertised (at least on social media) that a starter can be made from scratch in just seven days, I have not found this to be true. If your environment is ideal, you may be able to get it done in two weeks. Otherwise, expect it to take at least a month. Maybe two if it is particularly cool (though this is, very much, on the long end).

If you are not able to put in the time and commitment it takes to establish a starter from scratch, purchasing an established starter is always an option. An established starter can be reactivated and ready to make bread in five to seven days. If this sounds like a better option for you, my starter is available for purchase here. ADD LINK

I highly recommend watching my video on this topic, making a starter from scratch. Though I have written detailed directions below, a huge part of establishing a starter requires an understanding of your starter’s needs. Being able to see what your starter should look like at every step of the process can be incredibly beneficial. 

Last, I would like to note that any underlined content is a link. The underlined link may take you to another part of this article or to a separate webpage, depending on the context. I want to make sure you have as much information as possible, and I hope to answer most potential questions as you are going through this process. If you still have questions or confusions after completing this article, feel free to leave a comment below or contact me.

Without further ado, let’s get to it.

Print This Starter Guide

Equipment

1. One to two 8 oz glass jars. Only one jar is necessary, but two jars will allow you to rotate for cleaning.
2. Cover for the jar. This should be something that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Great options include: a loose lid, plastic cling wrap, damp paper towel or cloth with a rubber band, or beeswax wrap.
3. Kitchen scale. This one is optional, but not really. I highly recommend purchasing a kitchen scale if you do not have one already, as you will use it a lot for sourdough bread. It should measure in grams. Here is the one I use. Though I have come to love and adore using a kitchen scale, a starter can be established without one. I’ll give you volume measurements throughout this article.
4. Stirring utensil. A spoon is perfect for the job.
5. Flour. A starter can be successfully made with any type of flour. I do not recommend bleached flour, but other than that, the options are endless. Many favor whole wheat or rye flour (on their own, or in combination with white flour) to give the starter a boost. Gluten-free flour is also an option, though the signs of readiness will not be the same (due to the absence of gluten). I am simply using generic all-purpose flour in the video.
6. Water. Filtered is preferred, but not required. Tap water will work fine, as long as there is not an excess of chlorine. Well water is the best. Distilled water is not recommended, as it does not contain necessary nutrients to help build the cultures we are trying to establish.

Temperature And Your Starter

The temperature your starter is kept at is greatly going to affect the amount of activity present in the jar. You will see the best results if you can maintain the starter around 78 F (25 C), but it will flourish anywhere from 75-80 F (24-26 C). A starter can be made in cooler temperatures as well, noting that activity will occur at a much slower rate. I do not recommend keeping your developing starter in temperatures below 65 F (18 C), and even this is a little low. New starters do not have a build-up of good bacteria yet, meaning they are more likely to mold in the first few weeks. Warmth kickstarts activity, and helps the “good guys” win the battle.

How To Warm Up Your Starter

If temperatures are cool and you are desiring a jumpstart, or if activity is incredibly slow and you are hoping to speed things up, here are some ways you can do so.

1. Warm your water. You can do this by simply running the tap until it is fairly warm (but not scalding) to the touch. Water can also be heated on the stovetop or in the microwave. Try not to let the temperature of the water exceed 100 F (38 C).
2. Use a seedling mat or dough mat. You can place the jar directly on top of the mat, or wrap the mat around the jar. Condensation may become more noticeable inside the jar, but this is not an issue. Moisture and humidity will actually help your new starter, and shouldn’t cause mold unless something else goes wrong in the process.
3. Keep the jar in the oven with the light on. This can get warmer than you think! Make sure your oven is off and that it has not been heated at all. The light will provide plenty of warmth. Take care not to accidentally bake your starter.
4. Keep the jar in the microwave with the door shut. This closed environment will provide warmth and shield from cooler temperatures of the home. Add a glass of very hot (boiled, still steaming) water to the back of the microwave for a boost.
5. Use a proofer. I use my toaster oven, simply because it can go all the way down to 60 F (15 C). Some ovens also have a proof setting, so check to see if yours does. Last, a proofing box is also an option. While it is an investment (and one I have never made) many sourdough bakers adore the consistency it provides in their bread making. Set the proofer to the desired temperature (75-78 F is perfect) and watch the magic happen!

Getting Started: Day One

Using A Kitchen Scale

Add 10 g of flour and 10 g of water to your 8 oz glass jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice (it should hold in moisture, but also allows for ventilation – we do not want your starter to explode!). Let it sit in a warm environment for 24-48 hours, until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

The objective here is simple: we want to add equal parts, by weight, of flour and water to the jar. I like to keep only a small amount of starter while it is being established, in order to limit waste through the necessary discard that will come later. The actual amount of flour and water added to the jar does not matter, as long as the amount of flour is equal to the amount of water by weight. We will let this ferment until bubbles become obvious. Timing will vary depending on temperature, but bubbles should become prominent within 48 hours at the most. If they are not, add some warmth to the starter to help it along.

Using Measuring Spoons (No Kitchen Scale)

Add 2 tbsp of flour and 1 tbsp of water to the jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Let it sit in a warm environment 24-48 hours, until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

It is important to note that, by volume, different amounts of flour and water are added to the jar. This is because flour weighs half as much as water, so we need to add more of it by volume. Otherwise, depending on your flour choice, the flour will not be able to absorb all the liquid added, and the water may begin to separate, which will not create a healthy environment for your starter. I like to keep only a small amount of starter while it is being established, in order to limit waste through the necessary discard that will come later. The actual amount of flour and water added to the jar does not matter, as long as the amount of flour added to the jar is double the amount of water added to the jar by volume. We will let this ferment until bubbles become obvious. Timing will vary depending on temperature, but bubbles should become prominent within 48 hours at the most. If they are not, add some warmth to the starter to help it along.

The Second Feeding

After bubbles become prominent on the surface (24-48 hours after first mixing the flour and water) it is time to add more flour and water to the jar. For the second feeding, we will not discard anything; rather, we will simply add more flour and water to the jar. This will ensure the bacteria and yeast we are trying to raise are able to multiply to their maximum potential before the discarding process begins.

This time bubbles should appear much faster. The total time it takes will depend on the environment. Continue to look for bubbles on the surface before feeding, and do not feed the starter if you see less than ten bubbles on the surface. If this is taking an especially long time, add some warmth to the starter to help it along.

Using A Kitchen Scale

Add 20 g of flour + 20 g of water to the jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Let it sit in a warm environment 12-24 hours, until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

During the initial mix, we added 10 g of flour + 10 g of water to the jar. This makes 20 g of starter. Therefore, we will continue to feed equal parts starter, flour, and water by adding 20 g of flour and 20 g of water to the jar. This is called a 1:1:1 feeding ratio.

Using Measuring Spoons (No Kitchen Scale)

Add 6 tbsp of flour + 3 tbsp of water to the jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Let it sit in a warm environment 12-24 hours, until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

During the initial mix, we added 2 tbsp of flour + 1 tbsp of water to the jar. This makes 3 tbsp of starter. When measuring by volume, we are going to aim for a 1:2:1 feeding ratio: one part starter to two parts flour to one part water. This feeding ratio is based on the varied weights of starter, flour, and water, and will create a consistency that will keep your starter healthy and strong.

The Third Feeding And Beyond

At this point, a starter that has been kept in a warm environment (75-80 F) will need to be fed every twelve hours consistently. On the other hand, a starter kept in cooler temperatures (70 F or below) will still need continued observation for the first one to two weeks every twelve hours. Sometimes, you may feed it after twelve hours, other times, after twenty-four hours. This has to do with process described in the following section, “First Week Expectations.” Either way, from this point on, the feeding routine will be the same until the starter is active, mature, and ready to make bread.

Using A Kitchen Scale

Discard all except for 20 g of starter. This can be done by removing 20 g of starter from the original jar and moving it to a new, clean jar for feeding, or by removing 40 g of starter from the original jar and feeding the starter in the same jar that has been used the previous two days. 

Add 20 g of flour + 20 g of water to the jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Let it sit in a warm environment for approximately 12 hours, or until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

Using Measuring Spoons (No Kitchen Scale)

Discard all except for 2 tbsp of starter. This can be done by removing 2 tbsp of starter from the original jar and moving it to a new, clean jar for feeding, or by removing all except for 2 tbsp of starter from the original jar and feeding the starter in the same jar that has been used the previous two days. 

Add 1/4 cup of flour + 2 tbsp of water to the jar. Stir well, then cover with your covering of choice that holds in moisture, but also allows for ventilation. Let it sit in a warm environment for approximately 12 hours, or until bubbles become prominent on the surface.

First Week Expectations

Your starter will double in size sometime between days three to seven (depending on temperature and environment). It may double in size for one or two days. Then, the activity will die down again. After that, the activity will slowly increase until the starter is active, mature, and ready for bread.

What’s going on during this time? Essentially, a fight. I like to call this the fight between good and evil. In the end, good should win. (If it doesn’t, the starter will become moldy.) As the starter begins to ferment for the first time, a variety of bacteria and yeast colonies begin multiplying in the jar. As they fight, a lot of activity is seen. The first “doubling in size” is a surge of this activity. But, this surge will die down, as good overcomes evil. Then, the good guys will slowly begin multiplying until they are strong and sufficient for leavening bread.

A smell may also become present during this time. For the first week (or two, depending on your environment) a neutral or unpleasant smell may be present in the jar. After the initial surge of activity, any unpleasant smell should disappear, and the starter should evolve from smelling neutral (just like a flour/water paste) to pleasant and “yeasty” (as I describe it so often). Other ways to describe the good smell we are looking for might be like stout beer or alcohol. 

Last, you may notice a liquid appear on either the top or bottom of your starter sometime between days three and seven. It is easy for the newcomer to mistake this liquid for hooch, but it is actually liquid separation. Hooch appears in a mature starter when it has gone too long between feedings and is hungry. A starter in its first week is not mature, and has not developed the kind of activity necessary to produce hooch. I am not sure why this liquid separation occurs, but it almost always occurs directly after the initial surge of activity.

To fix it, simply feed your starter slightly more flour than usual. I demonstrate this in my video on day four. This may only happen for one feeding, but in rare circumstances (likely, cooler temperatures), it may occur for two or three feedings. 

Discard

When it comes to discard, I like to wait until the starter begins smelling good before I begin saving it. This means, for the first week or two, just throw it in the trash. (This is why I like to keep only a small amount of starter while first establishing – in order to limit wastefulness.) Of course, you can save discard before the pleasant smell begins to appear, but who knows what is going on in that concoction. By the time the starter begins smelling “yeasty,” you know good things are happening and it is safe to save.

When you begin to save discard, you can simply keep it in the fridge. All discard (from multiple days, or even weeks) can be piled into one jar. Stir everything together really well and seal the jar tightly with a lid.

As discard sits in the fridge, it may develop a layer of black-ish liquid on top. This layer of liquid is called “hooch,” and it will get thicker the longer the jar sits in the fridge. Do not remove the hooch until you are ready to use the discard. The hooch protects the starter underneath, and will help keep it from going bad.

When Is My Starter Active, Mature, And Ready For Bread?

Your starter is active, mature, and ready for bread when:

• It is doubling (or more) in size consistently between feedings.
• It can double (or more) in size between feedings at room temperature, without added warmth.
• It passes a float test at its highest point (or, directly before a feeding)
• Lots of bubbles can be seen on the top and sides of the jar

Once your starter meets these requirements, it’s time to attempt bread and find out if it truly is strong enough to leaven. The time it takes to meet these qualifications can be anywhere from two weeks to two months (depending on temperature and environment).

Once your starter truly is active, mature, and ready for bread, it is no longer necessary to keep it in a warm environment all the time. In fact, because the starter is getting stronger, an environment that is too warm will have adverse effects. If your home environment rests between 75-80 F (24-26 C), the feeding ratio will need to be adjusted in order to keep your starter healthy and strong.

The Float Test

The float test is a method of determining whether sourdough starter might be strong enough to leaven bread. It is performed by taking a teaspoon of starter and dropping it into a cup of water. If the starter floats, it should leaven bread satisfactorily. If it sinks, it is either too freshly fed, too far past peak, or too young and immature to leaven bread effectively.

After sourdough starter is fed, the yeast and bacteria present begin multiplying. Bacteria feed on, and break down, proteins in the flour, while yeast break down carbohydrates into sugar. When this happens, one of the byproducts is CO2. CO2 can be seen by us through bubbles, which get trapped in the gluten matrix of the starter. These bubbles are responsible for causing the starter to float at a certain point (when there are enough of them). 

This means that it is possible for a starter to pass the float test even when there is still plenty of food for the yeast and bacteria to feed on. There is actually a wide range of time that a starter will float in water, from around the time it has doubled in size to a few hours after it has hit its highest point (which can be triple or quadruple in size for a healthy starter). A younger starter that passes a float test will not leaven bread dough as well as a mature starter that passes a float test.

Once the food source has been demolished, the yeast and bacteria start to get “hungry.”  As this happens, they begin a sort of deactivation process as they wait for more food. The CO2 bubbles will begin to diminish and eventually an alcohol (hooch) will form. At this point, a starter is not ideal for leavening bread. Though it can still leaven, the process will be much slower, since the yeast have already begun to deactivate. As the CO2 bubbles disappear, the starter will lose its ability to float. Starter that has gotten to this point can still be replenished and revived through feeding, but is not ideal for leavening a loaf of bread.

It is important to note that some flours are heavier than others and may weigh down the starter, causing it sink when, in reality, it can be used for leavening bread. In addition, gluten-free flours will not float in water, due to the absence of gluten, which helps keep the air bubbles in place and holds everything together.

Altogether, the float test can be a helpful tool, but should not be the only determining factor for readiness in a new starter. The float test can let you know that there is a good amount of activity going on, but it could be deceptive in having you think a starter is mature (since it floats) when, in reality, it still needs more time to feed and become stronger. 

Your First Bread Recipe

When your starter appears to meet the qualifications and you are ready to try its hand at bread, I highly recommend my batter bread recipe as your first recipe. The reason? Well, making bread can be a difficult process. There are many factors, besides your starter, that can lead to a failed loaf. It is important to know if your starter is strong enough to leaven bread and to make sure this single factor is not the culprit in a potentially failed loaf. 

My batter bread recipe simply requires a single mix and a single rise. If the loaf does not rise appropriately, the starter was not ready and likely needs another week of twice daily feedings before trying again. By making batter bread as your first loaf, you are able to truly see if your starter is ready for more advanced projects with minimal effort and a delicious end result. You can find the recipe below: (click the picture)

How To Maintain A Starter After It Is Active, Mature, And Ready For Bread

Once your starter is active, mature, and ready for bread, it is likely that you will want to adjust your feeding routine to meet the needs of your desired baking schedule and the temperature of your home. Let us touch on each of these factors below.

Adjusting Feeding Depending On Home Temperature

Now that your starter is active and mature, warm temperatures (75-80 F) will cause it to hit peak quicker than ever, and a continued 1:1:1 feeding ratio may not be healthy at this point. If you have been keeping your starter in a proofer or on a seedling mat, this is no longer necessary. Room temperature should be just fine. But, if your room temperature is very warm (75-80 F), you will need to make adjustments to keep your starter healthy.

Adjusting By Weight

80 F (26 C): Feed your starter a 1:10:10 ratio. This means one part starter to ten parts flour to ten parts water. An example of this would be: 10 g of starter + 100 g of flour + 100 g of water. (Multiply the amount of starter by ten to determine how much flour and water it needs to be fed.) Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

The reason we have adjusted the feeding to include a much greater amount of flour and water in proportion to starter for the initial mix is because, at 80 F (26 C), the yeast and bacteria will multiply rapidly. We want to make sure there is plenty of food for them to feast on in this twelve hour period, during this rapid multiplication. This way, they do not use up their food source and starve within just a few hours. Otherwise, you will need to feed your starter multiple times in one day.

If, on the other hand, you are wanting your starter to be ready to use more rapidly than twelve hours, you can always feed it a smaller proportion, or less flour and water. The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is equal to or greater than the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included matches the amount of flour fed by weight. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – Warm temperatures like this favor the reproduction of homofermentative lactic acid bacteria. This strain of bacteria breaks down proteins in your flour that cause the gluten structure to become extensible (stretchy, loose, weak). This is good to a certain extent, but not in excess. These bacteria multiply rather quickly when exposed to favorable conditions, i.e. this one, and suppress yeast growth. You’ll know there is a problem if you notice little soapy bubbles on the surface of the starter between feedings, and the starter is very loose and runny. In this case, you can: a) feed the starter more often, b) feed your starter even more flour (leave the water the same and just add more flour to create a stiffer starter, which is unfavorable for the bacteria), or c) try to cool down your starter to 73-75 F (23-24 C).

75 F (24 C): Feed your starter a 1:6:6 ratio. This means one part starter to six parts flour to six parts water. An example of this would be: 10 g of starter + 60 g of flour + 60 g of water. (Multiply the amount of starter by six to determine how much flour and water it needs to be fed.) Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

The reason we have adjusted the feeding to include a much greater amount of flour and water in proportion to starter for the initial mix is because, at 75 F (24 C), the yeast and bacteria will multiply rapidly. They will not multiply as rapidly as they would at 80 F (26 C), but they will still multiply fairly quickly. We want to make sure there is plenty of food for them to feast on in this twelve hour period, during this rapid multiplication. This way, they do not use up their food source and starve within just a few hours. 

If, on the other hand, you are wanting your starter to be ready to use more rapidly than twelve hours, you can always feed it a smaller proportion, or less flour and water. The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is equal to or greater than the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included matches the amount of flour fed by weight. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – This temperature (really the 73-75 F [23-24 C] range) is ideal for your starter. It encourages the perfect reproductive balance of microorganisms. Feeding a 1:6:6 ratio every 12 hours at this temperature will result in the healthiest starter out of all the options.

70 F (21 C): Feed your starter a 1:2:2 ratio. This means one part starter to two parts flour to two parts water. An example of this would be: 20 g of starter + 40 g of flour + 40 g of water. (Multiply the amount of starter by two to determine how much flour and water it needs to be fed.) Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

We have only adjusted the feeding slightly for this temperature, due to the fact that the yeast and bacteria will multiply at a much slower rate than at temperatures of 75-80 F (24-26 C). Feeding your starter a 1:2:2 ratio will be sufficient to keeping it healthy and strong in this twelve hour time period.

The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is equal to or greater than the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included matches the amount of flour fed by weight. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

65 F (18 C): Continue feeding your starter a 1:1:1 ratio. This means one part starter to one part flour to one part water. An example of this would be: 50 g of starter + 50 g of flour + 50 g of water. Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.
We have not had to adjust the feeding ratios at all for this temperature, due to the fact that the yeast and bacteria will multiply at a much slower rate than at higher temperatures. Feeding your starter a 1:1:1 ratio will be sufficient to keeping it healthy and strong in this twelve hour time period.

The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is equal to or greater than the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included matches the amount of flour fed by weight. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – Cooler temperatures like this can cause very sluggish yeast. If you notice your starter is struggling to double in size (in all honesty, a healthy starter will at least triple in size), try warming your starter to help your microorganisms.

In-between temperatures: If your home is kept at temperatures in between any of these variables, you can still keep your starter healthy by following the guidelines above. It is possible to feed your starter 1:3:3, 1:4:4, 1:5:5, 1:7:7, 1:8:8, and 1:9:9 ratios if this is better for your situation. Experiment and find what works best to keep your starter healthy and strong. 

Adjusting By Volume

If you have not purchased a scale by this point, I highly recommend doing so. For one, in my opinion, figuring calculations such as this by volume over weight is much more difficult. In addition, a kitchen scale is not expensive and will come of such value to your home through your sourdough bread journey. Nonetheless, here are some guidelines to help if you still prefer to measure by volume.

80 F (26 C): Feed your starter a 1:20:10 ratio. This means one part starter to twenty parts flour to ten parts water. An example of this would be: 1 tbsp of starter + 20 tbsp of flour + 10 tbsp of water. Using cups instead of tablespoons, this would be approximately 1 tbsp of starter + 1 1/4 cups of flour + 5/8 cups of water. Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

The reason we have adjusted the feeding to include a much greater amount of flour and water in proportion to starter for the initial mix is because, at 80 F (26 C), the yeast and bacteria will multiply rapidly. We want to make sure there is plenty of food for them to feast on in this twelve hour period, during this rapid multiplication. This way, they do not use up their food source and starve within just a few hours. 

If, on the other hand, you are wanting your starter to be ready to use more rapidly than twelve hours, you can always feed it a smaller proportion, or less flour and water. The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is at least double (by volume) the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included is half of the amount of flour fed by volume. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – Warm temperatures like this favor the reproduction of homofermentative lactic acid bacteria. This strain of bacteria breaks down proteins in your flour that cause the gluten structure to become extensible (stretchy, loose, weak). This is good to a certain extent, but not in excess. These bacteria multiply rather quickly when exposed to favorable conditions, i.e. this one, and suppress yeast growth. You’ll know there is a problem if you notice little soapy bubbles on the surface of the starter between feedings, and the starter is very loose and runny. In this case, you can: a) feed the starter more often, b) feed your starter even more flour (leave the water the same and just add more flour to create a stiffer starter, which is unfavorable for the bacteria), or c) try to cool down your starter to 73-75 F (23-24 C).

75 F (24 C): Feed your starter a 1:12:6 ratio. This means one part starter to twelve parts flour to six parts water. An example of this would be: 1 tbsp of starter + 12 tbsp of flour + 6 tbsp of water. Using cups instead of tablespoons, this would be approximately 1 tbsp of starter + 3/4 cup of flour + 3/8 cup of water. Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

The reason we have adjusted the feeding to include a much greater amount of flour and water in proportion to starter for the initial mix is because, at 75 F (24 C), the yeast and bacteria will multiply rapidly. They will not multiply as rapidly as they would at 80 F (26 C), but they will still multiply fairly quickly. We want to make sure there is plenty of food for them to feast on in this twelve hour period, during this rapid multiplication. This way, they do not use up their food source and starve within just a few hours. 

If, on the other hand, you are wanting your starter to be ready to use more rapidly than twelve hours, you can always feed it a smaller proportion, or less flour and water. The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is at least double (by volume) the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included is half of the amount of flour fed by volume. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – This temperature (really the 73-75 F [23-24 C] range) is ideal for your starter. It encourages the perfect reproductive balance of microorganisms. Feeding a 1:6:6 ratio every 12 hours at this temperature will result in the healthiest starter out of all the options.

70 F (21 C): Feed your starter a 1:4:2 ratio. This means one part starter to four parts flour to two parts water. An example of this would be: 1/4 cup of starter + 1 cup of flour + 1/2 cup of water. Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

We have only adjusted the feeding slightly for this temperature, due to the fact that the yeast and bacteria will multiply at a much slower rate than at temperatures of 75-80 F (24-26 C). Feeding your starter a 1:4:2 ratio will be sufficient to keeping it healthy and strong in this twelve hour time period.

The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is at least double (by volume) the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included is half of the amount of flour fed by volume. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

65 F (18 C): Continue feeding your starter a 1:2:1 ratio. This means one part starter to two parts flour to one part water. An example of this would be: 1/2 cup of starter + 1 cup of flour + 1/2 cup of water. Let it sit for twelve hours, or until the starter reaches its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread.

We have not had to adjust the feeding ratios at all for this temperature, due to the fact that the yeast and bacteria will multiply at a much slower rate than at higher temperatures. Feeding your starter a 1:2:1 ratio will be sufficient to keeping it healthy and strong in this twelve hour time period.

The key to keeping a healthy starter now is to feed your starter with an amount of flour that is at least double (by volume) the amount of starter you are feeding. Then, make sure the amount of water included is half of the amount of flour fed by volume. Last, a starter will stay healthy when it is fed again at peak, or its highest point. This ensures the yeast and bacteria in your starter never run out of food, and that they are continuing to multiply, stay healthy, and grow strong.

NOTE – Cooler temperatures like this can cause very sluggish yeast. If you notice your starter is struggling to double in size (in all honesty, a healthy starter will at least triple in size), try warming your starter to help your microorganisms.

In-between temperatures: If your home is kept at temperatures in between any of these variables, you can still keep your starter healthy by following the guidelines above. It is possible to feed your starter any ratio in between, depending on what is best for your situation. Experiment and find what works best to keep your starter healthy and strong. 

Maintaining A Starter At Room Temperature

A starter maintained at room temperature will simply need to be fed the ratios above every twelve hours. The ratios can be adjusted as needed, especially to account for any bread recipe you are planning to make. Use the starter to leaven bread when it has reached its highest point (more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Extra starter not used for a feeding or to leaven bread can be saved in the refrigerator as discard.

While maintaining a starter at room temperature can be bothersome for some, it is the healthiest way to maintain your starter. Your starter will stay active and strong, and will always be ready for leavening bread. If you are a serious baker, I highly recommend biting the bullet and maintaining at room temperature if possible.

Maintaining A Starter In The Refrigerator

A starter maintained in the refrigerator will only need to be fed once a week. In all actuality, a starter can go much longer than this between feedings when stored in the refrigerator, but a once-a-week feeding is best practice.

Twelve hours before you are ready to make bread, take your starter out of the refrigerator and feed it according to the ratios described above, according to your home’s temperature. If it has been longer than one week since its last feeding, it may be necessary to give the starter two or three feedings at room temperature before trying its hand at bread. Leave the starter on the counter until it has reached its highest point (likely more than double in size), has lots of bubbles, and passes a float test. Then, use it to leaven bread. After using what is needed for bread, the remaining starter in the jar can either:

1. Be stored directly in the fridge without feeding OR
2. Be fed a 1:1:1 ratio (by weight) or a 1:2:1 ratio (by volume) and placed in the refrigerator until the next week.

How To Adjust The Amount Of Starter For A Recipe

By Weight

To know how much to feed your starter based on the amount of starter a recipe calls for, begin by taking the amount of starter needed and divide by two. So, if a recipe calls for 100 g of starter, we will divide this number by two to get 50.

100 / 2 = 50 g

50 g is the amount of flour and the amount of water that needs to be mixed together with some of your starter in order to create 100 g of starter for the recipe (plus a little extra to replenish your stash).

The amount of starter that needs to be added should be equal to or less than the amount of flour added. So, in this example, we can add 50 g or less starter to the mix. Use your knowledge of the environment and how long you are wanting the starter to take to reach peak to help you determine a number. It is possible to simply take a spoonful of starter, drop it in a jar, then add 50 g of flour + 50 g of water and mix well. Once the starter hits peak, however long that takes, it is ready to use.

In the end, you want to end up with a little bit more starter than the recipe calls for. This ensures that there is plenty of starter leftover to replenish your stash and to continue making bread.

By Volume

To know how much to feed your starter based on the amount of starter a recipe calls for, begin by taking the amount of starter needed and divide by three. So, if a recipe calls for 1 cup of starter, we will divide this by three to get 1/3.

1 cup / 3 = 1/3 cup

1/3 cup is the amount of water needed to feed your starter. Double this amount to know how much flour to add. 

1/3 X 2 = 2/3 cup

2/3 cup is the amount of flour that should be used to feed your starter. 1/3 cup of water + 2/3 cup of flour = 1 cup of starter.

Mix these amounts with a little bit of your starter to obtain the amount you need for the recipe (plus a little extra to replenish your stash).

The amount of starter that needs to be added should be equal to or less than the amount of water added. So, in this example, we can add 1/3 cup or less starter to the mix. Use your knowledge of the environment and how long you are wanting the starter to take to reach peak to help you determine a number. It is possible to simply take a spoonful of starter, drop it in a jar, then add 2/3 cup of flour + 1/3 cup of water and mix well. Once the starter hits peak, however long that takes, it is ready to use.

In the end, you want to end up with a little bit more starter than the recipe calls for. This ensures that there is plenty of starter leftover to replenish your stash and to continue making bread.

Your Second Bread Recipe

Once you have made a successful loaf of batter bread, it is time to choose a recipe and repeat it until it is mastered.

When it comes to sourdough, many people begin with, and stick with, artisan-style breads, which can be quite a learning adventure. Artisan bread is higher in hydration than other styles, which simply means it contains more water. A wetter dough has its pros and cons, and is simply different to work with, learn, and master than other types of bread. My basic country bread recipe is linked below: (click the picture)

If the chewy interior, crispy exterior, a rounded shape are not your preference, a sandwich loaf may be better to begin with. My basic white sandwich bread recipe is low in hydration, meaning it makes a stiffer dough that can be much easier for a beginner to work with. This recipe will resemble the kind of bread you may be used to buying from the store, with a much softer crumb than artisanal breads. If this is more your cup of tea, I recommend starting here for your first advanced loaf.

A Note On Gluten-Free Starters

Gluten-free starters will be harder to judge in terms of readiness. Some gluten-free flours will double in size, while others will not. A gluten-free starter that will double in size is typically made from whole grains, such as: buckwheat, chickpea, or brown rice.

Due to the absence of gluten, the starter cannot hold in air bubbles in the same way that a regular starter can. This means that a gluten-free starter will not pass a float test and it may be more difficult to see bubbles on the sides of the jar.

When a gluten-free starter is ready, you will be able to see some bubbles surfacing on the top of the jar, and may notice gaps in the mixture on the sides of the jar. In addition, the starter should still have a strong “yeasty” smell, like alcohol or stout beer. When it is at peak, it should have risen by at least 25% (or more, depending on the flour).

It is best practice to wait at least fourteen days before putting your gluten-free starter to the test. If temperatures are cool in your home, it may be wise to wait a month.

Despite not showing the same signs of readiness, a gluten-free starter contains the same good yeast and bacteria as a starter containing gluten, and will function just as well. Though the absence of gluten will cause some differences, a gluten-free starter can leaven just the same.

The Video

Long before writing this article, I made a (fairly low-quality, sorry) video demonstrating how to make sourdough starter from scratch. In the video, I make two starters: one which is kept in a warmer environment, and another kept in a cooler one. This way, you can observe the differences in each and be confident you are on the right track in your journey. 

I also walk you through the feeding process (using a scale measuring grams), and mention how to deal with issues that may come up (such as liquid separation). 

You can find a very broken-down segment of time stamps for this video by heading directly to YouTube and checking the description. This way, you can pop on and off the video as needed while you are making your own starter in your own home. 

Watch the video below:

Congrats!

Congratulations on making it this far! If you have read through all of this information, watched the video, and even made your own starter from it – wow! You have just gained so much knowledge! I cannot wait to see where your sourdough journey takes you from here.

If you still have questions or confusions at this point, feel free to leave a comment below or contact me.

Best of luck and happy baking!

A Brief Summary Of Sweet Stiff Starter

• Sweet stiff starter is a low hydration starter, meaning it contains more flour than water. This provides more food for the yeast to feed on, and less water for bacteria to thrive in, which means reduced chances of your starter becoming sour.
• Sweet stiff starter contains a very specific percentage of sugar (10-15%). This is enough to create osmotic stress, which is the goal. This percentage is not so much that it kills the yeast, but not so little that fermentation speeds are increased.
• The purpose of creating osmotic stress is to limit bacteria cell regeneration. This means the bacteria that create acids (sour flavor) are not reproducing as rapidly.
• A sweet stiff starter will only work if your process also works. Fermentation is key. Ferment the starter in temperatures that favor yeast reproduction for the most success (70-75 F; 21-24 C).
• Sweet stiff starters are most commonly paired with enriched doughs, though they can also be found in doughs that are “sweet” and “stiff” themselves.

What Is A Sweet Stiff Starter?

A sweet stiff starter is a type of starter that is low in hydration (more flour than water) and contains a percentage of sugar. The overall goal of a sweet stiff starter is to limit acidity from bacteria and favor yeast reproduction in order to reduce sourness.

To make the starter “stiff,” the hydration should be less than 65%, meaning it is like a dough ball and may require kneading. The “stiff” aspect of a sweet stiff starter favors yeast in that it gives them more food to continue feasting on, while also limiting bacteria (who thrive in wet climates) with the use of less water.

The amount of sugar present in a sweet stiff starter is very specific, 10-15% of the total flour. This specific percentage of sugar works to create something called “osmotic stress,” which, in a sense, suffocates/slows the ability of bacteria to reproduce. Having less bacteria results in less acidity (aka – sour flavor) in your starter.

What Is The Difference Between A Liquid Starter And A Stiff Starter?

The true definition of a liquid starter is going to depend on who you ask. Some define a liquid starter as a starter with more water than flour, as opposed to a stiff starter, which contains more flour than water. However, I have never used a sourdough starter with a hydration greater than 100%; therefore, you will find me using the terms “liquid starter” and “100% hydration starter” interchangeably. A 100% hydration starter (liquid starter by my book) is made up of equal parts flour and water by weight. This kind of starter is easily stirred with a spoon and has the consistency of a thick paste. It is also easily dissolved into water and incorporated into bread dough.

Stiff starters, on the other hand, cannot be stirred with a spoon. They are generally maintained around 50% hydration, sometimes less, meaning the starter contains at least two parts flour to one part water by weight. The higher proportion of flour compared to water means stiff starters are generally kneaded to help incorporate all the flour. They appear and feel very similar to bread dough. Stiff starters do not incorporate as easily into bread dough as liquid starters do, and may need to be dissolved into (or softened by) water first.

Summary

While the true definitions vary from baker to baker, the definitions of “liquid” and “stiff” starters, as I reference them, are as follows:

• Liquid Starter: A liquid starter is a type of starter that is easily stirred with a spoon and has the consistency of a thick paste. An example is a 100% hydration starter, which consists of equal parts flour and water by weight.
• Stiff Starter: A stiff starter is a type of starter that contains more flour than water by weight and must be kneaded like bread dough. An example is a 50% hydration starter, which consists of two parts flour to one part water by weight.

What Is The Difference Between A Stiff Starter And A Sweet Stiff Starter?

The only difference between a stiff starter and a sweet stiff starter is sugar. Only the sweet stiff starter contains a percentage of sugar.

What Effect Does Sugar Have?

In essence, sugar slows down bacteria’s ability to reproduce.

To understand this, we must understand how our starter functions. Within your starter are both yeast and bacteria. Yeast feed on sugars (from the flour), releasing CO2 and ethanol in the process. Bacteria break down proteins in the flour, also releasing CO2 and ethanol, but in smaller quantities. In addition, bacteria release two types of acid: lactic and acetic. The acid, released by the bacteria, is what causes a sour flavor.

Now, this whole topic is very complex. It’s not like the bacteria, or the acids they release, are a “bad” thing. The problem is that the bacteria reproduce faster than the yeast, which can create an imbalance in your starter and in your dough. This is what can lead to overly sour bread or bread that “overproofs” before it is fully aerated. This is where sugar comes in.

What the sugar does is slow down the bacteria. It’s meant to sort of keep the bacteria in check with the yeast and restore balance, maybe even hinder them just a bit. The goal is to prevent or limit sourness coming from the acids they produce.

When sugar is added to sourdough starter and bread dough in small quantities (under 10%), it does not harm the bacteria. In fact, it his rather helpful. Small amounts of sugar kickstart the yeast, encouraging feeding and CO2 production, as well as bacterial growth. On the other end of the spectrum, if sugar is added in large quantities (over 15%), it can be harmful. Too much sugar steals water and dehydrates yeast cells. It can thoroughly stall out yeast and bacterial reproduction, potentially killing the starter altogether. A perfect balance is necessary. Added in just the right amount, though, (10-15%), sugar can have optimal effects on the bacteria without harming the yeast.

This happens in sweet stiff starter. When you add about 10-15% sugar to the starter, it creates something called “osmotic stress.” This stress stops the bacteria from multiplying as rapidly, which then limits the amount of acid buildup (since the bacteria aren’t reproducing as quickly).

In other words, the percentage of sugar added is very specific. It is enough to limit the rapid multiplying of bacteria, but not enough to completely kill the starter. Therefore, the starter still functions appropriately but the buildup of acid from the bacteria is limited, which reduces the sour flavor.

Summary

Adding sugar to your starter limits the ability of bacteria to reproduce, which contributes to a reduced sour flavor.

What Effect Does Fermentation Have?

Just like with anything bread-related, fermentation is key. It can make or break the effectiveness of a sweet stiff starter. Without proper fermentation, you can still end up with a sour starter and a sour bread, despite your efforts to prevent this by using a sweet stiff starter.

It is helpful to ferment the starter in an environment that favors yeast reproduction – around 70-75 F (21-24 C), though a number of variables can influence this. Too cold and acetic acid production is favored, resulting in a slower rise and more acetic acid production. Too warm and lactic acid production is favored, which is not as sour as acetic acid, but whose effects can still be noticed in bread.

A sweet stiff starter fermented for too long – no matter the temperature – will use up its food source and, of course, become sour again. Try to use the starter before it has “over proofed” (or, fallen from peak). This way, it will be less acidic.

For breads made with a sweet stiff starter, a warm bulk fermentation is ideal (in the 70-75 F [21-24 C] range), though the dough can be placed in the refrigerator for up to twelve hours without developing a noticeable sour twang.

Summary

Without proper fermentation, the starter can still result in sourness. Ferment your starter in temperatures that favor the yeast (70-75 F; 21-24 C) and use the starter at peak (not over) for best results.

The Science Behind Sweet Stiff Starter

To put it all together, here is the science behind a sweet stiff starter in a more straightforward way:

A sweet stiff starter is low in hydration, meaning it contains less water than flour. The increased amount of flour in a sweet stiff starter means more food for your starter, which consists of yeast and bacteria, to feed on. However, because the water is limited, bacteria reproduce slower than they would in a more free-flowing (wet) climate. This plays to your favor because bacteria produce acids that cause sourness.

To limit acid production even more, sugar is added to the starter. Adding 10-15% sugar is just the right amount to create osmotic stress (but not kill the starter), which further limits the ability of the bacteria to reproduce, reducing chances of acidity/sourness even more than with a stiff starter alone.

Because a sweet stiff starter takes all these measures to limit acidity, it would be classified as a type of starter that favors yeast growth over bacterial growth, which results in a milder “sour” flavor when maintained correctly.

Any starter that is maintained incorrectly can still become sour. If left to ferment too long, or if left to ferment in certain environmental conditions (such as a refrigerator, which encourages acetic acid production), the starter can still result in a final loaf that is “sour,” despite the use of additional flour to encourage yeast production and sugar to create osmotic stress.

How Do I Make A Sweet Stiff Starter?

To make a sweet stiff starter, you need to make a starter with a hydration of 50% (or less) that contains 10-15% sugar. These percentages are based in baker’s math, meaning they directly correlate to the total amount of flour in a recipe.

For example, to make a starter with 50% hydration, first determine how much flour you want to use. Let’s say I wanted to use 100 g of flour. 50% of 100 g is 50 g (100 X 0.5). Therefore, I would use 100 g of flour and 50 g of water to make the stiff starter at 50% hydration.

To add 10-15% sugar to the starter, I again need to consider the amount of flour I added. 10% of 100 g is 10 g (100 X 0.1). 15% of 100 g is 15 g (100 X 0.15). Therefore, for 100 g of flour, I need to use 10-15 g of sugar to create osmotic stress.

The amount of your regularly maintained starter that you use to build the sweet stiff starter is up to you. Using more seed means your sweet stiff starter will rise faster, but will also keep more of the bacteria carried over from your regularly maintained starter. Vice versa, using less seed means your sweet stiff starter will rise slower, but will not carry over as much bacteria from your regularly maintained starter. I like to keep the amount of seed equal to or less than the amount of water I add to the starter. Therefore, if I am using 50 g of water to hydrate the starter, I would use 50 g (or less) of my regularly maintained starter to inoculate the sweet stiff starter.

Once you have determined how much flour, water, sugar, and seed you will use to make the starter, weigh each ingredient and roughly mix everything together in a bowl. Using your hands, knead the mixture in the bowl or on the countertop until all of the ingredients are fully incorporated. Use more flour or lightly wet hands as necessary to manage your dough/starter. You can continue kneading the starter for up to five minutes (this is optional) to ensure the yeast from your seed are well distributed, encourage a more elastic (strong) gluten network (which will help your starter rise), and incorporate oxygen (which stimulates yeast growth). Last, transfer the starter to a container to rest (covered) at room temperature (70-75 F; 21-24 C) until doubled or tripled in size, 8-12 hours.

What Kind Of Bread Should I Pair With Sweet Stiff Starter?

While you can use a sweet stiff starter with anything you desire, sweet stiff starters are generally used side-by-side enriched doughs (doughs containing milk, butter, sugar, etc) or other stiff doughs where a reduced sour flavor is desired. Examples include: brioche (enriched), cinnamon rolls (enriched and sweet), bagels (stiff), etc.

Generally, recipes that include sweet stiff starter are “sweet” and/or “stiff” themselves, though not always. It is common for the attributes of the starter to be kept in the bread dough in order to keep a reduced sour flavor. Even savory recipes, like bagels, may contain a percentage of sugar whose purpose is not to sweeten, but to create osmotic stress and eliminate sourness.

It is not common to pair sweet stiff starter with high hydration (wet) rustic breads, such as baguettes, English muffins, or country bread. While it is possible, bacteria create more complex flavors that are generally desired in these types of breads. However, if you do not desire these flavors, you can include a sweet stiff starter in any recipe, noting that technique will need to be adjusted when making the dough.

Summary

Sweet stiff starters are most commonly paired with enriched doughs, though they can also be found in doughs that are “sweet” and “stiff” themselves.

Do I Have To Maintain A Sweet Stiff Starter In Addition To My Regular Starter?

It is not necessary to maintain a sweet stiff starter along side your regularly maintained starter. This is because you can build a sweet stiff starter from your regularly maintained starter any time you need one.

If you want to, though, you can! One fun thing about maintaining a sweet stiff starter is that the yeast in your starter can be trained to become osmotolerant – meaning they can efficiently leaven bread recipes where sugar content is high and they are under high osmotic concentrations.

Do You Have Any Bread Recipes That Feature Sweet Stiff Starter?

What Is Whey?

Whey is a liquid byproduct of cheese production. It is the leftover liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained from the curds during the cheese-making process. Whey is composed of water, lactose (milk sugar), minerals, vitamins, and proteins, including whey proteins such as beta-lactoglobulin and alpha-lactalbumin.

Types Of Whey

There are two types of whey: sweet whey and acid whey. Both types of whey come from cheese or yogurt-making, but the method in which the whey is obtained is different.

Sweet Whey

Sweet whey is the whey produced when rennet is used in the process of separating milk curds. This is typically done during the process of making hard cheeses, such as cheddar or Swiss. It has a higher pH (around 5.9-6.6) and a milder flavor compared to acid whey. Sweet whey contains more lactose and less protein than acid whey and is often used in food products, animal feed, or in whey protein powders.

Acid Whey

Acid whey is the whey produced when acid (such as lemon juice or vinegar) is used in the process of separating milk curds. This is typically done during the process of making cheeses such as ricotta or cottage cheese. It can also be obtained from straining yogurt. This type of whey is more common in the home setting. It has a lower pH (around 4.6-5.1) and a more acidic flavor compared to sweet whey. Acid whey also contains higher levels of lactic acid and protein compared to sweet whey.

Which Type Of Whey Is Best For Sourdough?

Of the two types of whey, sweet whey is best for most uses in the sourdough world. Its sweeter, milder flavor makes it so. It is a fantastic source of nutrients for your sourdough starter and an excellent source of protein for your bread.

However, I have tested acid whey in my bread-making and in the feeding of my sourdough starter and should note that it is usable as well. If acid whey is the only kind of whey found in your home, there is still hope!

Altogether, both kinds of whey are usable in sourdough baking; however, sweet whey is preferred for most applications.

Whey In Sourdough Starter

Whey can be used to feed sourdough starter. In fact, the beneficial bacteria in whey may keep a sourdough starter healthier than one fed with only water. As with any new routine, use caution when trying for the first time, and always keep a starter backup, especially when attempting with acid whey.

To use whey to feed your sourdough starter, replace the amount of water you would normally use to feed your sourdough starter one-for-one with whey. Stir, rest, and repeat as often as you like! Watch your starter bubble up and become extra healthy.

While whey can be used to feed an established starter and keep it healthy, it can also be used to begin the process of creating a sourdough starter. Use acid whey in the first one to three feedings when making a starter from scratch. Since acid whey is high in lactic acid (an important component of sourdough starter), it can help boost the bubbles and get activity moving quicker.

Whey In Sourdough Bread

Whey can be used to make sourdough bread. It works well for both partial or full replacement of water or milk in most recipes. To use whey in place of water or milk, simply use a one-to-one substitution method, just like with the feeding of sourdough starter. Using whey to make sourdough bread may change some components of the recipe, depending on what type of bread is being made. The effects are most noticeable in Artisan breads, like my country bread recipe.

Use Of Whey In Milk-Based Breads

The effects of whey are much less noticeable in milk-based breads than in water-based breads. Breads made with milk as a percentage of, or majority of, the total liquid in the recipe are already accommodated to adjust to the effects of milk, which are stronger than the effects of whey. With the use of milk brings a tighter crumb and a deeper browning to the crust of the final baked product. Because whey is a by-product of milk, the effects are diluted, yet similar. Milk-based recipes, such as cinnamon rolls or sandwich bread, are generally baked lower and slower, to accommodate for the extra browning that occurs with the use of milk. In addition, these recipes do not come with the desire of an open crumb, rather the focus is more on bread pull or a specific flavor achieved from the milk. Sweet whey is always a great one-for-one substitution in these recipes, and still brings a beautiful flavor, though it is possible to use acid whey as well.

Use Of Whey In Artisan Breads

Generally, artisanal breads are water-based, meaning water is the main, and typically only, source of liquid in the recipe. Most artisanal breads simply contain flour, water, salt, and sourdough starter; though, some of my artisan bread recipes contain a small percentage of milk, oil, and/or sugar. Artisan breads are typically hand-strengthened and baked at high temperatures, with steam, to create a beautiful open and chewy interior with a crispy crust.

Whey can be used in place of water in artisanal recipes, though there will be some obvious effects. Whey affects the crumb, flavor, and crust of the bread. The crumb is likely to be tighter than a loaf made only with water, though not extremely tight like a loaf made primarily with milk. Depending on your bread-making process, including how you handle tightening agents in your bread, you may still be able to achieve open crumb using whey in place of water.

The flavor of your whey contributes to the flavor of your bread. This is why sweet whey is preferred over acid whey for bread-making – because it brings sweet notes over acidic notes. If you do not mind the flavor of acid whey in your bread, go ahead and use it as often as you like! It will still make a great bread, only with a slightly more acidic flavor.

Last, whey causes deeper browning of the crust. Because artisanal breads are typically baked at higher temperatures, you may notice burning or greater darkening on the outside of the loaf before it is finished baking. Baking time and/or temperature may need to be reduced, if possible. 

Use Of Whey In Sourdough Discard Recipes

When it comes to sourdough discard recipes, the potential to use whey in place of a liquid completely depends on the recipe and function of the liquid. In quick bread recipes, whey can almost always be used in place of milk. In many of my quick bread recipes, I do not use an additional liquid at all. In cases where I do, the purpose is usually to thin out the batter. In this case, using whey in place of the liquid in a one-to-one ratio is completely acceptable. In other types of sourdough discard recipes, such as fry batter, it is not ideal to use whey. Altogether, use judgment when considering whey as a substitution for any liquid in a sourdough discard recipe.

Pictures Of A Loaf I Made Using Acid Whey

Conclusion

If whey is abundant in your home, definitely play around with it in your sourdough recipes! This post is meant to give you cautions and expectations so that you do not walk into the process blindly. This is a topic that is incredibly unexplored; I would love to hear about your findings!

What Is The Desired Outcome Of A Homemade English Muffin?

When asking my social media following what is most important in an English muffin, they noted two things: a) nooks and crannies and b) the gritty cornmeal on the outside. The latter is easy to manage, but the nooks and crannies are much more difficult. So many components come together to achieve perfect nooks and crannies in an English muffin – liquid choice being one of them. 

Not only does liquid effect the crumb, but also many other factors, including: how the dough handles, ferments, cooks, browns, and even the final texture and density. If you are going for a denser, softer English muffin, you will want to choose a different liquid than if you were going for a light and airy English muffin.

Altogether, the desired outcome of an English muffin is going to depend on personal preference. For me, the choice is:

• Light and airy
• Nooks and crannies
• Puffy, but not too puffy (I do not care for so much bread in my English muffin breakfast sandwiches that it overpowers the fillings)
• Gritty cornmeal texture on the outside
• Classic flat top and bottom with a dark (but not burnt) surface from frying

How Does Liquid Choice Affect The Desired Outcome?

Of the attributes listed above that make up my perfect English muffin, liquid choice is going to affect the following:

• The texture of the muffin and overall density: light and airy or dense and soft
• Crumb structure: whether clear, defined nooks and crannies are present
• Darkening/burning on the outside of the muffin during frying

Though these are the main, most important effects of liquid choice, liquid can also affect:

• The dough feel and texture during gluten development, fermentation, and shaping
• How the muffins rise and bake
• The final, overall flavor

Milk And English Muffins

Milk has its place in the bread-making world. It can turn out excellent results in many bread recipes. In others, though, milk just is not a good fit. Is it a fit for English muffins? Well, that is for you to decide.

Milk’s effects –

• Dough handling: Milk is a tightening agent, meaning it creates a stiffer, less extensible dough (the dough is not as stretchy). This means it affects the dough’s consistency, making it easier or more difficult to work with, depending on the recipe and amount of milk used. For English muffins, a milk-based dough is very elastic, making folds (the method of dough development used in my recipe) much more difficult (and maybe not the best method of choice for a milk-based dough).
• Fermentation: Milk slows fermentation because it creates a thicker balloon (more elastic gluten network) that takes more air to blow up. This leads to the need for more sourdough starter, longer fermenting times, or warmer liquid temperature during the initial mix to help the dough rise reasonably. 
• Crumb structure: The proteins in milk, particularly casein, contribute to a finer crumb structure. This results in a more uniform and even crumb, which can be desirable in many types of bread. For English muffins, though, this means the nooks and crannies are near impossible to achieve.
• Softness: The fats and proteins milk imparts to the dough will lead to a softer, more tender crumb and texture. In English muffins, milk will create a “soft and fluffy” end result.
• Flavor: Milk imparts a subtle, creamy flavor to the bread, as well as a subtle sweetness due to the lactose.
• Density: Milk will create a denser overall end result. If a thick and heavy English muffin is the desired outcome, milk as the primary liquid would be a good choice. 
• Color: The proteins and sugars in milk help with the Maillard reaction, which results in a deeper, golden-brown crust, especially when compared to a water-based bread. Milk-based breads baked at higher temperatures tend to darken very quickly, and even burn. For English muffins, this means the low and slow cooking method is a must if using milk as the primary liquid, otherwise the outside will burn before the inside is fully cooked.

Water And English Muffins

Water is an extremely common, fundamental liquid in bread-making, used in many types of bread doughs. This is all for good reason: water influences various aspects of the dough’s behavior and characteristics of the final bread.

Water’s effects –

• Dough handling: A water-based dough is fairly easy to handle, mostly dependent on the overall hydration of the bread. For English muffins, a water-based dough is more extensible and loose, easier to manage during folds (my choice for dough development for this bread). It also tends to be slightly stickier than a milk-based dough.
• Fermentation: Water-based doughs set the standard for fermentation. While water temperature can affect overall fermentation speed, a water-based dough will generally rise faster than a milk-based dough, due to the more extensible gluten network.
• Crumb structure: Water is always going to lead to a more open and airy crumb, though the exact amount of “open” and “airy” is also dependent on overall dough hydration and fermentation. For English muffins, this means it is possible to achieve beautiful nooks and crannies, in addition to a light flavor, with a water base.
• Softness: A water based dough is not particularly “soft” or “fluffy,” thus, using water as the main liquid in English muffins leads to a less tender crumb and texture.
• Flavor: Water itself does not influence the flavor of the bread, though the amount of water added can influence flavor development during fermentation. English muffins made primarily with water do not impart any sort of sweet or creamy flavor.
• Density: Water will create a lighter overall end result. If a light and airy English muffin is the desired outcome, water as the primary liquid would be a good choice. 
• Color: Breads made with water need to be baked at high temperatures in order to brown properly on their own, and require a wash (like an egg wash) to encourage darkening when baked at lower temperatures. This is because water itself does not include proteins and sugars that encourage a Maillard reaction, which just means the bread will not turn brown. For English muffins, this means the muffins can be fried at a higher heat initially without fear of burning, which helps with the initial spring and overall crumb structure.

Comparison Video: Milk Versus Water In English Muffins

What Liquid Do You Use For Your English Muffins?

For my English muffin recipe, I choose to use a heavy water base with a small amount of milk. I think the combination balances well. The heavy water base gives the muffins an overall light and airy texture, as well as opens the crumb (nooks and crannies) and allows the muffins to be fried over a higher heat initially. The small portion of milk adds a touch of softness and depth of flavor to the dough, as well as enhances the color on the outside of the dough during its short frying time. Even though milk is a tightening agent and can close your crumb, there is not enough of it in my recipe to take away your gorgeous nooks. In fact, it may even help you obtain a taller English muffin and allow fermentation to be just a bit more flexible. In the end, I leave this choice up to the baker, as the recipe can be easily made with 100% water, if desired. Find my full English muffin recipe below:

What Is Tangzhong?

Tangzhong is a technique derived from Asia, used in bread making, where some of the flour is cooked with a liquid, usually milk or water. This water roux gelatinizes the starches in the flour, and, when added to the recipe, produces a bread that is soft, fluffy, and moist with a good shelf life.

Tangzhong In A Nutshell

How Does Tangzhong Work In A Recipe?

Tangzhong works by creating a gel-like mixture that helps improve the texture and moisture retention of bread. The key science behind tangzhong lies in the gelatinization of starches present in the flour. When precooked, the flour is able to to soak in and retain more moisture, almost by double. This results in a bread that stays fresh for much longer (does not go stale as quickly), and is more soft and tender than a bread made without tangzhong.

A Breakdown Of The Science Of Tangzhong

When the flour and liquid mixture (tangzhong) is heated, the starches in the flour absorb water and gelatinize, which involves the swelling and thickening of starch granules. The gelatinized starches form a network or matrix within the tangzhong, which can hold onto water and create a structure that helps trap moisture during baking. This extra water retention contributes to a softer and moister crumb in the finished bread.

When the tangzhong is added to bread dough, the gelatinized starches help to enhance the dough’s structure, resulting in a more stable and uniform rise during fermentation and baking. It also delays the retrogradation of the starches (the process where the starches in bread recrystallize and firm up), keeping the bread from staling and helping the bread to stay softer and fresher for a more extended period of time. This improved moisture retention and delayed staling contributes to a longer shelf life for the bread.

What Kinds Of Recipes Pair Well With Tangzhong?

Tangzhong goes well with any bread where a soft and tender crumb is desired. This usually includes milk-based breads or breads made from stiff doughs. Tangzhong pairs well with sweet breads, such as cinnamon rolls or pull-apart bread, but also makes the perfect addition to soft and savory breads like sandwich bread and any kind of bun (ex – dinner rolls, hamburger/hot dog buns). Tangzhong would not pair well with artisanal breads, such as baguettes or country bread, where a chewy crust and open interior are desired.

How Do I Make Tangzhong?

Making tangzhong is easy.

Start by whisking together five parts liquid (generally water or milk) to one part bread or all-purpose flour in a small saucepan until no lumps remain. For example, if you use 100 g of liquid, you will need 20 g of flour.

Place the saucepan over medium heat and whisk continuously until the mixture thickens and transforms into a gel-like consistency.

Remove the tangzhong from heat and cover tightly with plastic wrap (this is to prevent a skin from forming on the outer layer). Let it cool to room temperature before incorporating in your bread recipe.

When Is The Best Time To Make Tangzhong?

A tangzhong can be made anytime before you begin mixing your bread dough. This means you can make it the morning or evening you mix your bread, as long as it has ample time to cool. You could place it in the refrigerator or freezer to speed along the cooling process. 

In most recipes where I use tangzhong, I also use a sweet stiff starter. In this case, I like to make the tangzhong when I mix the starter, then let the tangzhong cool in the refrigerator while the starter rises.

I also sometimes make the tangzhong right before I mix my dough. In this case, I make the tangzhong first, before I prepare/measure any other ingredients. Then, I place the tangzhong in the freezer while I prep my dough. To make sure the tangzhong is cool enough, I stick my finger into the center. If it is warm, but does not burn my finger, it is fine to incorporate into the dough.

What Kind Of Flour Or Liquid Can Be Used To Make Tangzhong?

Tangzhong can be made using any kind of flour with sufficient starches and most liquids that can be cooked on the stovetop. I usually stick to white flour, bread or all-purpose, but like to play around with the liquids. I have made tangzhong using water, milk, buttermilk, and even pineapple juice. Let’s take a closer look at the possibilities for each:

As far as flour goes, any flour with sufficient starches will work. I have only tested tangzhong with wheat flours (white flour – bread and all-purpose – and whole wheat); though, any kind of wheat flour should work. This includes: whole wheat, spelt, rye, semolina, etc. You may notice that some flours absorb a lot more liquid than others, thereby creating a thicker tangzhong. The recipe developer should account for this and make adjustments to the recipe-specific tangzhong formula.

I have had many ask me if gluten-free flours will work for tangzhong. I have not tested gluten-free options in tangzhong, but I imagine starchy gluten-free grains would work. Starches like potato starch, tapioca starch, and corn starch will work to thicken the liquid (noting the proportions may need to be adjusted [since this is straight starch and not flour]), but I am not sure if they would have the same effect in the bread.

As far as the liquid goes, you can use almost anything. Water is common. Any kind of milk will work: whole milk, two percent, low fat, lactose-free, or even coconut, almond, soy, etc. I’ve also used buttermilk and pineapple juice with great success. I generally use whatever liquid makes sense with the recipe, or is already part of the recipe.

Once you understand tangzhong, how to make it, and its effects on the dough, there is a lot of flexibility that can occur within the ingredients, depending on your personal recipe goals.

How Do I Convert A Bread Recipe To Tangzhong?

First, consider if tangzhong would really pair well with the recipe. Remember – soft and tender breads, like milk breads or breads made from stiff doughs – pair well with tangzhong. Recipes that are meant to have a chewier texture, like country bread or pizza crust, are not good options for tangzhong. If you are struggling with these breads, it is likely another issue, and tangzhong will not fix the problem.

Second, make sure you know at least the amount of flour and water you are using by weight (not volume!). One cup of water weighs twice as much as one cup of flour, so this formula will not work for volume measurements.

Next, it is important to consider the hydration (how wet or dry the dough is) of the recipe. Since the tangzhong’s addition allows more moisture to be absorbed, it is important that the hydration of the original recipe be at least 75% before converting to tangzhong. Otherwise, the resulting dough may be too thick and dry. I say “may” because I have converted several stiff doughs to tangzhong and ended up reducing the amount of liquid I added to the formula back down to keep the consistency I was going for. When experimenting, it is best to hold back some of the added liquid when mixing the dough. This way, if your dough does not need the extra liquid, the proportions of the recipe (rest of the ingredients) are not thrown off.

To calculate hydration, simply divide the total amount of liquid by the total amount of flour. Read more about hydration here. Essentially, there is a simple way and a technical way to calculate hydration. For the sake of simplicity, it is okay to exclude ingredients like eggs or even your sourdough starter that contain extra water or flour content. The rough estimate given by simply dividing the amount of water by flour in the recipe is good enough. 

If the total comes out to at least .75 (75%) you are good to go. If the total is less than this, you will need to adjust the amounts of flour and liquid in the recipe to get the desired hydration of 75%. Here’s how to do that:

Let’s say the recipe calls for 315 g of water and 525 g of flour. 315 divided by 525 is .60 (60%). So, the dough’s current hydration is 60%, and we need it to be at least 75%. To fix this, we will need to add more liquid. We can calculate the specific amount of liquid needed by taking the amount of flour in the recipe (in this case, 525 g) and multiplying it by .75 (75%). 525 multiplied by .75 gives us 393.75 g of liquid that we need to add to the recipe. It is okay to round this number up to 395, or even 400, grams of liquid. In conclusion, the new totals of water and flour for this recipe are 395 g of water and 525 g of flour. Now this recipe is ready to convert to tangzhong.

A standard slurry of tangzhong uses 5-10% of the total weight of the flour and consists of five parts liquid to one part flour (by weight). Let’s continue with the totals above to determine how much flour and water is needed to make our slurry.

To start out, use 5% of the total weight of the flour. The higher the percentage of tangzhong in the recipe, the more soft and plush the dough is. 10% can be quite a lot to start with; always start with the lower amount and increase as desired. 5% of 525 g of flour is calculated by multiplying 525 X .05 (5%). The end result is 26.25 g. I am going to round this up to 30 g of flour for my recipe. Since this still falls in the 5-10% range, this is not an issue. Now, I know I need 30 g of flour, but how much water should be used to create the tangzhong? Since a tangzhong consists of one part flour to five parts liquid, I am going to multiply 30 by 5. 30 X 5 = 150 g of liquid. In conclusion, I will make the tangzhong by whisking together 30 g of flour with 150 g of water until no lumps remain, then heating over medium heat and whisking continuously until a gel-like paste forms. Last, I will remove from heat, cover tightly to prevent a skin from forming, and let it cool to at least room temperature before incorporating into my recipe. 

Finally, we need to adjust the amounts of water and flour in the recipe. Since we used 30 g of flour to make the tangzhong, we will subtract this from the original 525 g of flour in the recipe. 525 – 30 = 495 g of flour. Repeat this process with the liquid in the recipe. 395 -150 = 245 g of water. Now, we can make the recipe using our new totals of flour and water and incorporating the tangzhong. 

To review, the original totals of flour and water for this example were as follows:

• 525 g of flour
• 315 g of water

This gave us a hydration of 60% (calculated by dividing water by flour) which is too low of a hydration to add a tangzhong. So we increased the hydration to 75% by adding more liquid. The exact amount was determined by taking 75% of the flour in the recipe. The new totals were as follows:

• 525 g flour
• 395 g water

Now, we took a portion of this flour and water and made a tangzhong. A tangzhong consists of 5-10% of the total flour, and is generally one part flour to five parts liquid. Our tangzhong totals were as follows:

• 30 g flour
• 150 g water

Then, we subtracted these amounts from the flour and water in the recipe, so that we could add in the tangzhong. The final totals were:

• 495 g flour
• 245 g water
• Add tangzhong to the dough

And, that’s it! Remember: if you had to increase the amount of liquid in the recipe, it is a good idea to hold some of it back during mixing, adding as needed to get the consistency you are going for. Once the tangzhong is incorporated into the dough, you can follow the recipe directions as written. 

Now you know how to convert any recipe to tangzhong!

Do You Have Any Bread Recipes That Feature Tangzhong?